dajogejr

In my opinion....the supercub is not worth it. You're going to spend more money on it...and after you spend even more money to get it ported correctly...it's still a few HP and a few Ft. LBs of torque better than a standard old, run of the mill 68mm cub. RDZ's own website only reports a few HP and Ft. Lbs. on the dyno...less than 5HP and 2.1 Ft. LBS of torque...and that is with EXTENSIVE porting done on it by Rob. http://www.rdzracing.com/pictures/72super_cub_68cub_2.jpg 1275 for the cylinder itself, already ported. You can get a cleaned up cub for 900 all day long, if not a few bucks cheaper. For almost 400 bucks more...I'd rather pay someone to port a cub than a super. Hell...you can buy a 4 mil hot rods crank brand new for just over 400 bucks....plus you can use your stock head or cool head on the cub, with the right domes. You have to buy an all new head for the super... I've read from Several sources and builders that out of the box...the cubs perform better than the super. Now...that's not to say down the road someone won't have a bulb light up and make the Super Cub better...but IMO, as of right now...I can't justify all the extra expense for a few HP or torque, you can make that up by taking a healthy shit before you race... Mike...I know this subject is near and dear to your heart for several reasons...but until the Super becomes a viable option at a fair price...I just can't see someone spending the extra money for no reason....

Or...a bad seal in the motor....

Yep...but at less than half the price...it's easier on the wallet, I"m sure...LOL. Plus, easier to find. I figured if it was important enough for Jeff to include in the box he sent it to me in, it was important enough for me to read....

Hmmm...that one I've never heard. But...it does make sense, if that's what it's trying to do. There's no way any program can "Guess" HP based on all the different gearing, tire combos, etc that are out there...which will play a heavy roll in a dyno number. This is interesting...any one else care to comment on that. I thought a dynojet measured rear wheel HP...not an estimated crank number... Mark...what say you?

Yep...three things the instructions said specifically to do. 1. Run 2 qts of ATF type F in the tranny. 2. Upon first starting the bike, put the bike in first gear with the clutch pulled in for 1 minute so the 5th gear pinion gets lubed and doesn't weld itself to the shaft, after this...it'll be fine. 3. Make a few runs at half throttle to make sure shifting is ok....

No way Jose....drag only baby...in sand, preferably 300ft at a time...LOL. Hey...my bike is for sale...everything has a price, make me an offer (after I get it running of course) I'm already planning my 16 mil Cheetah motor for next year...LOL. It never stops I tell ya....

She won't be doing that anytime soon...unless they put one in her cell. (Stupid biyatch...ha ha...) :whistling:

Please listen to this man...he probably has as much experience with GRR setups as Andy himself. I agree...do a leak down test...because if you're sucking air or oil from anywhere in that motor, it doesn't matter what jets you run in the motor (I've been down that road as well...)

You're asking a Blaster question on a Banshee site.... Not trying to be a smart ass....but, it is what it is. Try planetblaster or projectblaster.com... in the banshee world, you have to line up the arms from the clutch actuator arm to the pointer on the case...not sure if it's the same on a blaster... Then...you have to make sure the shifter is adjusted properly...again, not sure if it's the same on a blaster....

Use the same fluid you plan on running in the tranny. I used to use bel ray gearsaver 80W, but my override tranny says to use ATF Type F...so, that's what I use...

Cheetahs have powervalves, need a different head and reed cages, cubs have no power valves...can use the stock head and reed cages. If you are not willing to change suspension, the word cub or cheetah do not belong in your thought process, PERIOD. Going from a stock bore to the largest piston they make (for stock cylinders without resleeving them) is .100 over. And if you went from stock to .100, you wasted 7 or 8 good bores...there might be a 2 HP increase. You bore the cylinders when a fresh top end is needed, and the internal parts are worn beyond spec. Stock suspension on the banshee sucks. With a bone stock motor...it sucks. You could probably gain anywhere, be it dunes, drag racing or a track by merely replacing stock suspension... And...once you start building a motor, you'll need to redo the suspension to get that power to the ground. So...unless you plan on completing a package...leave your bike as is.

50 pilots, CEL needles mid clip, 158 mains. pilots and mains will probably be rich...but, that's the best way to start out at.

Go somewhere else. I used a plate (still am) and a Dyna on my 4 mil cub on gas. It ripped...and I guarantee is was at or near 100HP at the rear wheels.

You'll have PM in just a few....

PWKs take the same cable as stock carbs, with the TORS REMOVED.... They're a shorter cable since they don't have to go through the TORS. Just order up a non-Tors thumb cable, if you don't already have one.

Isn't that the point of an SAE corrected dyno number to take into consideration changes in temp, humidity, etc.? (Not trying to be a smart ass...don't take it that way...honest.) I agree...crank dyno is way more accurate. But...it is nice knowing how much HP is being put to the rear wheels, too...

I too think you should fix your other problems before you mill the head. Why make matters worse by adding compression (read....STRESS) to a motor that's not even right to begin with. The need for higher octane depends on two things, taking into consideration the bike is jetted properly: Compression and timing... No one can tell you for sure what to do... Some guys run 170PSI plus on pump gas, some run 150 and need higher octane....

I can tell you it's worth more on the West Coast...that's for damn sure. Look in your local bike/truck trader, look on ebay, look on Craigslist.com, and that should give you a rough idea...

Are you getting the cylinders from Rob @ RDZ...or where they just done up by RDZ?? Wiseco hot rod crank rewelded will work just fine. Factory welds are crap. A lockup and Override are an absolute must for a cub and for drag racing. The rest is gonna be saving weight via chromoly parts (suspension components, etc.), drag axle...etc. Also, gearing and tuning to no end. Since you're gonna be on pavement....race gas might be the best ticket. For long runs, longer than 1/8 mile...it's hard to feed enough alky to these motors....even with pumps, larger bowls, removing a float...etc.

I wouldn't go that far on the displacement thing. I've seen plenty good running 350s' give 4 mile (421 cubs) fits at the strip. They were just ported very, very well and tuned in right. Porting is the power in two stroke world...there is no doubt.

I know dynos can vary a bit...but there's something wrong...that 4 mil cub should be up over 90 with good tuning, on gas...and that 10 mil should be over 100 easy on gas, closer to 115 to 125 on alky...

375.... What kind of part did that dickbag screw you over on? maybe another good Samaritan can help... I usually have a box of parts...or know someone who does....laying around...

I gotta admit...that looks like a lot of fun. Glad you guys made it out safe. Whaddya think, Dan...lower the old 10 mil and put a shorter arm and some hoosiers on it..? LOL....

especially since you're running 8 paddle extremes on an 8 over arm...I'd bet you're spinning like a bitch... Yeah, if you have no porting work...and that 2 into 1 carb...he should be walking you pretty bad unless he can't shift and/or can't ride. Porting is the key...my man.

330s and work your way down. Typically...same elevation here, T5, FMF and PT pipes need a 320 to 340 main on stock porting motors...with pods only.