dajogejr

Need cheap ones....whatcha got laying around?

Holy shit USA's swinger is damn sweet...there you go Chase. If you want the one from USA...I'll handle shipping it and getting it to you buddy.

Dude...I nearly soiled myself reading that...from your son of all people. That's damn funny....

Ray... How many Stator and Flywheels do you have? Wanna deal? My boy needs a bunch of 'em...his stock is running low. How much...and I can meet up with you (as always...) Dave

You've got some choices to make....that's for sure. If you're gonna go cub, if you haven't already, think about a lockup, override, even longer swinger...etc. Going faster is a sickness...from stock OEM with bolt ons in 05, 4 mil cub on gas in 06...now I'm on a 10 mil on alky in '07. Next year...well, I'll figure that out later...LOL. You're in a good position to sell some of your old stuff to negate some of the costs of a cub build. If I were you, I'd let Jeff open up the porting more, get some Shearer pipes, 35PWK carbs or bigger (cubs lover bigger carbs...so do dune/drag ported cylinders).... I take that back, get suspension, tire and gearing work first, then open it up. Cubs are gonna blaze the tires (as Jeff's port will, too) with knobbies on, period. I had my 4 mil on grass...thick grass, with nearly new holeshot XCRs...it still blazed them on that grass. <Stoners start laughing here...> Overall, I'm confused too, though....you haven't been beat on sand, it's your own fault on dirt for losing, but you want more power??? I'd do the bolt ons that will carry over to a cub, more compression, better pipes, etc....

Count on it. Not married and no kids, but I have two St. Bernards that I treat like my kids (still trying to get them to open the fridge and get "daddy" a beer, not working out too well...though...) LOL. It's hard for me to, luckily my parents love staying at my house and watching my dogs, it cuts my dad's drive into work in half...plus mom grew up around where I bought my house!!! I'd like to make it to Little Sahara and hang with you boys as well...it just gets tougher with work, sheduling, money....etc. when you get older, I swear. Damn these responsibilities... Yeah, JT and I and crew would love to meet up...hopefully soon! Be good!

40??? Jesus Grandpa....when do the AARP and social security start kicking in? Been to the Bingo hall lately or what??? LOL.... Happy birthday buddy....hope you have a good one. I know you won't be knocking any back, so...I'll take care of that for you. Thanks for all you've done to help me out...as well as all the members on this site. :beer:

Yeah...I got your BSing right here Cam...LOL. You ever gonna make it up to Silver Lake? Be nice to have a soda pop or two with ya and do a little riding... I think we both got our first trip jitters out of the way, a day at the drag strip would be nice, huh??? Yep...sure do. In the Images section, there's a post on My 10 mil cub build. It's 12 or 13 pages long (mostly some HQ buddies BSing and stuff) but I've got bare frame and motor...rolling chassis, engine in chassis...and completed bike on there. However, the bike is not 100% cosmetically done...some paint and chrome still left....and the pics of it were dirty...sheesh... Sorry to hijack as well... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73990

OOops...close enough my Hawaiian Buddha friend...LOL...

Change of owners within the last year or two...but still open as far as I know.... Why you'd choose Rockets over CPI or Shearer is beyond me...but, to each is own...

Does this picture help?

Do yourself a favor and buy a vaccuum pump from an auto parts store.... I went through this when I put my 14 over arm and LONG braided brake line on. I disassembled my whole rear brake...and could not get it to bleed for the life of me. Really simple and easy to use, and is the only way to fly for bleeding bike brakes. I think MitiVac is the name of the kit, like 30 or 40 bucks...and you can use it on cars, bikes...etc.

SLD...if you want to buy a kit, this is a good one. This is Bob of R&B racing. I've seen/rode a few of his ported motors ...and he's a helluva nice guy. This is his ebay auction, he sells these kits. (The picture is for a single cylinder, but the actual kit includes what you need to do a twin...no worries.) I know a few people on this site have bought the kit and been happy with it. You could also PM him here, his name is machwon. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Pre...sspagenameZWD1V

Do a search on RNBrad's leakdown tester. YOu can buy a kit...or...or you can make your own. It might not be an air leak...if the crank seal is leaking on the PTO side...it's got fluid going through it and all around it...from the tranny.... And since your plugs are "oily"...this makes sense.... See what i'm getting at?

And hopefully to check your tire pressure... Glad you're ok...

PM JMKampala...he's looking to ditch his twist and go to thumb...

Ok...no problem. Find out the hard way... I've seen motors smoked in 20 minutes that were "just rebuilt" because the owner didn't take the time to read plugs and take it easy.... I'm not telling you it's not a jetting problem. I'm just telling you to leak test the motor before you waste your time trying to jet it out...when it could be something else... Just because it's not leaking air doesn't mean a crank seal isn't leaking tranny fluid into the motor...and since the PTO side of the crank has more load on it..it's normally the seal that goes first. It also happens to be the right side.... Also...did you check your reeds for broken, frayed or chips in them??

I've seen it backfire both ways, too much fuel trying to be burnt...and not enough. More often than not...it's lean. However, what do your plugs say???

I'd be more worried about backfiring at 4-6 than I would be off idle....gonna do more damage at higher RPMs than lower...

Not sure, Cam.... I got a 1-5 Neutral down, dunable...and that's what it says. I've read plenty of folks here and on PS using ATF in their non-dunable overrides as well...as I'm sure you have too.

Yep...sounds about right. That's a shit load of compression....hope you had the crank welded up good, and you checked your squish. Goes without saying you'll need 110 octane all the way for that bike...

Buy it online and in bulk... ATF will work fine, you will have to change it more often...but obviously cheaper and more readily available. Buy a gallon of premix instead of a 12 or 16 .oz bottle....

http://www.rocketpipes.com/

25/75 or 50/50 will be safe. You might be able to run 92 or 94 octane pump gas IF you put the timing back at 0...but why??? You can try pump gas....but you better be sure your jetting is spot on, keep an eye on those plugs AND listen to the motor.... I'd rather be safe myself....

My 4 mil cub had an air leak the size of the hole in the Titanic...however, it still started real easy...idled fine, etc. You need to leak down test that bike before you go any further, or else you're just wasting time in my opinion. All the jetting changes in the world won't help you with an air leak or crank seal leak. One cylinder not firing until it warms up does not make sense...especially if the jetting is the same in each carb. You have bigger problems...and need to figure those out...