dajogejr

Honestly...I think the stuffers are less than 10 or 15 bucks for both of them from Cascade... I doubt it would be worth the time trying to cut the regular VForce inserts down...when these are all you need... It's 9.95 for a pair of 'em. However, I think they're only recommended for bigger motors, like the Cheetahs and Cub motors....smaller motors may not have the velocity to take advantage of them.

I can assure you I'm not taking or posing with banshee parts in my birthday suit...now that's a guarantee... He he he...

C'mon...that's kinda funny....

Hey...you said imagine what you're doing with his carbs...commando style...I dunno... :biggrin: :yelrotflmao:

Leaner (smaller main jet) to get a smaller ring....don't go too lean, though...a little rich is better than a little lean.

PM or wait till WesW gets on here... He's got a lot of experience with 34PJs...can probably at least get you started...if not damn near dialed in with those.

1-2 sizes... Check your plugs. NO one can give you a 100% certain answer. Remove the lid, add two sizes to your main jets, and do a proper plug chop to be sure. Always better to start off a little rich... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Warm the bike...keep kicking until the gauge does not move, not just 10 kicks.... I've often had to kick a bike 20 to 30 times. Second...does the compression gauge reach down as far as the spark plug does? More often than not, they don't, they're have the length (thread reach) as the spark plug, up the PSI count 5 to 8 PSI from there. When the compression gauge is not displacing the same amount of volume as the actual spark plug is, the reading will be low. At 150 with only 10 kicks...you're gonna probably have a "true" higher number than that, probably in the 160's. That by itself is borderline race/pump gas mix. Add in any timing whatsoever...I'd at least mix pump/race fuel to be safe... Timing advance has no effect on the compression reading, but...it does effect the need for higher octane.

And a 15 tooth front sprocket... LOL...

Actually...I meant round house for a banshee arm. If you click on the button above this posting, it says (Get the Edge, Banshee HQ Premium) that should start the process. Again, I think it's 35 per year... You're not stirring...but there are those that have paid for advertising space that support the site, what's fair is fair, that's all... Good luck!! Or...click here: http://www.bansheehq.com/index.php?option=...5&Itemid=32

Myself included...and the pricing is not in question. Although...a finished picture product would be nice, as well. However...all I'm saying is it's not like you're buying and selling your own old parts, etc., on here. I'm not saying you're going to make a killing off this biz...there's a lot of competition. I'm just saying asking the site admin, and maybe paying the premium member fee (like 35 bucks or so) would be a good start...that's all...

33 or 35mm carbs, Mikuni or Keihin. Unless you're riding water and mud, remove the airbox and get clamp on filters. Get a clutch kit from Jeff @ FAST...that thing lasts forever...use 3 stock and 3HD springs. Get the stock crank welded and trued. Mill your head .020 or get a cool head with 21cc domes in it. (I say leave the compression lower so you can run pump gas, you did say all around trail bike) Boysen reeds on stock cages or VForce reeds/cages. Get an adjustable timing plate, set it at +4 timing.... That should round out the package. +2 arm should help, really +4 will be better, but it's not gonna turn trails quite as well... Get your stock rear shock valved for your weight, riding style and swingarm length... Pickup some aftermarket front shocks, Works makes a pretty good shock that won't kill the pocket book...

Um...drilling the dump tubes and mains for alky...? :whistling: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

2 things.. 1. Before you advertise and sell your goods on this site, It would be nice if you asked the site admin, LEE, for permission.... It's not like you've got a few items to sell. You're a builder and fabricator of items...and this is a business....sponsor the site. 2. Are you only building stock carrier arms? Round house is clearly a better design...period... Good luck to you...but if you're gonna get something out of it...put something back in, please.

Add timing and compression to get that low end back... Did your low end go away with your port job? I'd bet they did you no favors by making it a mid-top port job... Without knowing just how aggressive the port job is, hard to say if it's worth it. I've been told by many T6 pipes will be fine with slight to moderate porting...

No problem, Josh... Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to keep it real. Don't get me wrong, it'll be a fun bike...but, might be a little harder to keep on the pipe depending on how drastic that drag port is... Good luck!!

Gorr moved to England...but, I never heard he was moving back. Stephen Clark had some gorr cylinders, and raved about them....phenomenal woods motor. I've never spoke to or talked to him, but I've always heard his motors were the shit!!!

Fair enough, Paul...that's all we can ask. And thank you... Dave

Reading Banshee HQ on a mobile. You sir are my hero...that's awesome bro!!! :thumbsup:

They have no bottom and hardly any mid...it is worse, WAY worse than a stock cylinder. In the same threads you read it is a terrible trail motor...the reasons being for that were listed too...no bottom, no mid...and a WHOLE LOT OF POWER right now, like a light switch....

He is in Holland...I believe. Helluva nice guy...my buddy got a complete bottom end off of him from a very, very good price and it was just as described...no BS, no junk.

Do you have a picture. I have a quick change on mine, you have to grind out or cut out the whole outer hole...then epoxy or JBWeld the insert in. It's a quick change for a lockout clutch...

Round...and the stockers will work if they're in good shape. Hi temp RTV slight coat will make then slide on the cylinder easier, and seal 'em a bit, too...

Even with T5 pipes...I would be disappointed in Patriot if they only mustered up 60HP...I'd bet they're quite a bit more than that, probably high 70's to low 80s...IMO. I know it's only your estimate...but, you'll be surprised. You probably shouldn't have gotten a drag port if you don't plan on drag racing all that much. A True drag port only has top end, kinda like a cub. No bottom, very little or no mid....which doesn't make for a great duning motor. That being said, if you're not gonna drag race, just keep your sand stars...or get some 10 paddle haulers. I don't see override anywhere in your sig...pulling that clutch in at high revs is gonna be tough with the weights slamming your clutch locked!!

If you did a search correctly, you would've found a whole heck of a lot more than 2 answers. Agreed with loco and bigboy. They are not a trail friendly cylinder. WOT or not with these babies.