dajogejr

That's only cause you're ears aren't ringing anymore....and you can concentrate on riding...LOL... :thumbsup:

I was out at the dunes last year, closing weekend...and normally run BR8ES. Since it was the last ride of the year, I picked up 2 Irridium to see if it made a difference in my cub. (4 mil on gas...last year, BTW). Not a lick of difference...other than I probably could've bought a 6 pack with the money I would've saved. Others might swear by em....but...from my own personal experience it was no difference, and a waste of money for me.

You may gain or lose a pony by repacking the silencer, what you will do is your part to keep your bike quieter in an area you need silencers for...and help those of us that have to have silencers (and gulp...spark arrestors) a better name. You won't notice the difference, guaranteed...unless being louder makes you feel faster...

I know Dynoport make one of the best, if not the best pipes for sled out there....however...... When they start putting up the numbers like CPI or Shearer when it comes to drag pipes...then I'd look at them... Not to say that they don't make good pipes...but this guy has drag porting, and drag porting on 34PJs should be well into 70 plus HP if not more...there is something else wrong. And i agree with Loco...dyno's are good for tuning and getting your shit close...real world and seat of the pants riding is where it's at....though. Plenty of smaller, less HP motors can hand it to bigger motors for a variety of reasons. #1 will always be rider, followed by setup (suspension, tires, gearing, etc.)

Squish is the gap beween the dome and the crown of the piston...and quite easy to measure, acutally. You need solder and a micrometer... You put solder in the spark plug hole, make sure it is running parrallel to the the crank (if you do it in front or back side of the piston, it will be a false reading since the piston rocks back and forth in the cylinder) and crank the bike over by hand with the kickstarter. Measure how thick the "Smooshed" solder is. Everyone has their preferences....I like to run .045 to .050. Some will say lower.... That PSI sounds roughly 15 to 25 PSI low to me, even at 3600 feet.

The plugs don't make that big of a difference, to be all honest. First off, what are all your mods, and what is your jetting at? What do you mean by "blowing plugs"...and in melting them, fouling them....???

Are you using a factory CDI...or a Dyna? I got my frame cut/lightened, but...you can't run a Dyna and the coil near each other (interference..) So...I just zip tied my Dyna under the seat, where the stock toolbox would go... One day I'll cut my harness all the way down, for now, I removed the TORS crap and the lights, sealed and taped it all...

BR9ES is a colder plug. NGK is backwards from mainstream....lower the number, the hotter, higher, the colder. BR8ES all day long, used Irridiums in my cub on gas, waste of money. I used BR9ES on my alky bike....

You should have way more compression...if you're at or near sea level. first things first, check the squish on your motor... Next, what kind of compression gauge are you using? Third...did you keep kicking until the gauge didn't move? Often it can take 20 to 30 kicks. my 4 mil cub with 20cc domes, NOSS head, about 600 ft above sea level put out a healthy 185PSI with .045 of squish...

Yeah, Dan does great work...but what good is it if you have to wait a season plus to ride it. I'm sorry...I know he's only been back for a week or two since PS drags...but, c'mon...12 phone calls and over the winter at that? I'd either take the 2 hour drive, Ray....or get someone else...

Congrats buddy... Just think, if Jr. doesn't get the 4 mil, you'll have a bike to pass down to a real, real little jockey in a few years..LOL. Best of luck to ya pops!!! (Does this mean no more old man wise cracks...LOL)

I honestly don't know if a Paul Turner head takes the same O Rings. I know Dave Noss's head and the Pro Design one share O ring sizes. Call or PM Dave Noss (DLNOSS) and see what he says. Put a spark plug in the domes, flip them upside down, fill then with water from a graduated cup...see how much water they hold. That's the cc of the dome...normally, it is stamped on the dome, though. Any machine shop can measure the bore, tell you what it's at...and what size pistons to use.... If the bore is larger than 64mm, it's been bored before most likely (sometimes you can clean carbon off the top of the piston and get numbers, too...) If you can post a pic of the reeds...we can help better. I've ordered from Toomey and RMATV...never had a problem personally...

Cam knows his shit...no doubt. But he, just like myself or ANYONE can only get you close. I'd bet his jetting recommendations are fairly safe. He doesn't want you to blow up a new motor any more than you do... There's no reason you can't go 50 then 48. It's only a few bucks out of pockets for pilots..no big deal...

Honestly, there's two things you can do....leave it as is, possibly learn the hard way....or jet it richer to be safe, and if it's too rich...go the next size down. I can promise you a top end from being lean is more money than a few dollar jets....

Normally...an air box without the lid then going to no air box is 1-3 main sizes, sometimes one pilot size... I know it doesn't sound right either, but...it is what it is. If you're gonna put a bunch of holes in the air box...just remove it!

I don't think your cylinders are ported...15 is too much for a stock port motor in sand...

If that Torco is leaded, lean out your premix to 40:1. Put 158 Mains, middle clip on the CELs, 48 pilot...and keep jetting down. You're choking that motor with an airbox, even without the lid....you're way too rich.

100 and 150?? Sheesh... First off, did you use a good quality compression tester...as mentioned? I've seen a cheapy vary PSI in a triple sled by 15 to 25 lbs per cylinder, only to get a snap on tester and have them all within 3 lbs PSI of each other. second, did you keep on kicking until it didn't go up anymore? this can often take 20 to 30 kicks.... Was the engine warm or cold? Supposed to be done cold. Hold the throttle wide open when kicking? Lastly, does the compression tester thread into the head as far as the plugs do? (Thread depth or reach) if not...add a few PSI... If this is a true reading of compression from a reliable gauge, yeah...you got big problems...new pistons and rings at the least, and a bore job....as long as something else isn't fudged up.... Good luck!!!

Exactly...reuse the pistons and rings, use new gaskets everytime....and use hot soapy water to clean the jugs when you're done. You want to be able to take a white cloth to the cylinders (inside) and not have any kind of oil, dirt, residue, etc. on the white cloth at all...should be squeaky clean. Then...light, LIGHT coat of two stroke oil to help but it all back together...don't go nuts with it.

You'll have to trim the rubber "V" off the stock intakes. Just take a razor blade knife, trim it down. Use a gasket for both sides of the VForce reed cage, 2 per side, 4 total. I also use some RTV, thin, thin coat on those gaskets, too....

Generally...VForce reeds richen up the midrange and allow more fuel/air into the system. Some people have to lean the needle one clip, other's don't. I say lean it one clip (move it one position to the blunt end) and see if that fixes it.

Might mean too much...or not as clean burning premix oil.... What are your mods, carb types, riding temps and elevations???

Did you rejet when you put holes in the lid? Let me give you my latest example... Normally...around here, I put 330 to 340 main jets in a T5's bike with no air box, pod filters. Jmkampala "hill billied" his setup. He's using the stock boots, the front, and ONLY front of the airbox mounting assembly and fastened a K&N Filter to that. So...no airbox. I put 340s in his bike...fell on it's face in the upper RPMs...and was rich. He put 320's in....big difference...ran much better and cleaner. So...yes, removing the airbox will probably need 1 to 2 jet sizes bigger....

Exact opposite.... Ignition programmers add timing at lower to mid RPMs to gain HP...but retard the timing at higher RPMs for better overrev...

Justin...I have a several fastener places within 10 miles of me (believe me, been there enough times over the years...LOL) I found some stainless (not polished or allen head) bolts for my upper J Arms. You give me the measurements....and I'll see what I can do for you. Sure, they're not as pretty as my allen head stainless, polished...but, a little work on the wheel will have 'em pretty in no time!!!