dajogejr

No...a lot people are using the square stuffers...myself included. YOu mentioned in the other post, you were using a cheapy 35 dollar tester...have you tried another tester yet??

Take it all apart, measure the thickness of the plates and the fibers... I used 3HD springs and 3 stock springs on my 4 mil cub...quite a bit more than 80 HP...and it held up just fine. Even a shitty clutch should hold when new...if only for a little while. Is it possible your cable is shot? Stretched out..??? The arrows on the arm/case line up with pressure from you pushing, and you're leaving a nickel width gap at the lever/perch?? Did you put the right number of fiber/steels back in? Did you put them back in correct order? I know they sound like dumb questions...but you've answered the tougher, more common ones. Now it's time to look for something a little more off the wall...

Check squish next...

Ebay...to be honest... You can find all you're looking for. What kind of exhaust specifically...and what's your price range. These pipes are flawless... http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...ge/1#Post598086

Good kid here, his stuff is flawless... http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...ge/1#Post598086

You guys are missing his point... If you run an airbox, with a lot of vents or the lid off, and run the Dynojet/Toomey needle, you are fine with those suggestions. Main could be a 270 to 290, depending on temps and elevation as well. The Toomey/Dynojet needle they sell in their "not so perfect" jet kit is longer with more taper, and it has 6 grooves instead of the stock 5. 4th clip down on this aftermarket needle is the Std. position. If you have stockers, leave it in the middle. Put 280's in...and do a proper plug chop. Air screw will be between 1 to 2 turns out, 25 pilot is just fine if you're running an air box setup. If you remove the airbox all together, bump the mains up to 330s or 340s, 27.5 pilot. This is all taking into consideration you're at or near sea level (less than 1000 feet) and you ride in 60 to 80 degree temps. Hope this helps....

Any idea on the pricing? I looked on their site, no pricing for a banshee...just a range for ALL stators.

MY standard output took a number 2 on me, it was purchased new last year. RS will have it tomorrow for warranty...and I'm weary about putting it back on. I'll be keeping a stocker for backup... Funny thing is...ran fine ALL YEAR long on my 4 mil on gas. Not a single problem...just my luck I guess....LOL. I've heard good about Moose stators...hmm... Mark, Ricky stator makes all his own parts in house....no middle man.

Banshee #1. You don't have to pull the cover to check adjusment, look at the arrows on the left top side of the case. Push the arm with your hand...it should line up with the arrow on the cases. If not, then you have to pull the side case and adjust it. Or...you have a badly grooved up stock clutch basket....worn/frayed cable, or the perch is in a good need of oiling. Banshee #2. Unless you have a lot of engine work, most piped or otherwise bolt on parts banshee can run on 3HD springs, 3 stock springs. This will give you good pressure, but won't give you Popeye forearms. In the clymer manual, it tells you how to adjust the shift shaft fork. I really don't have good words to explain how to look at the gap...adjust it so they're even, etc. The pics in a clymer manual explain it better than I can. Of course, make sure the clutch is in adjustment as in Banshee 1. HOpe this helps...

Everyone has their own preference when it comes to squish. However, .035 to .050 should be ok.

I can tell you there's plenty of people running Shearers out on the ice here....not sure how much colder you have to be than that...LOL.

Rockets are only made for shees. The previous owners had a sqabble...and sold the biz. You can probably search a bit and find some older ranting and raving if you want. My point is this...and yes, I've tried Rockets on my old 96 stock motor....despite the clams on their website, they flat out sucked for a stock port/stock bore motor. Drag racers and duners are a fickle and picky bunch....yet very...and I mean very few people run these pipes. The majority run CPI and Shearer. It's definately not a price thing...they are competitive there. There are quite a few people here on HQ that have 'em and are happy with them. I bet if you had a poll, searched around...or head over to planet sand (pretty much a hard core drag racing site) you'll find less than 5% of those riding use them....

You hold the throttle wide open as you were kicking it? According to Dave Noss's site, your compression should be between 165 and 170 PSI with 18cc domes at 3500 ft. Now...that's a fresh engine, stock bore, stock stroke. Now...keep in mind, porting will lower your cranking compression a little....but I can't see it lowering it that much. I'd try a new, quality compression gauge first...Craftsman, Snap On, etc. not an auto parts store cheapy... You can make your own leak down test kit for checking seals, etc., or...you can buy one already made. PM Machwon on here, he's R&B Racing out of Michigan...and he sells a nice kit.

120PSI with 18cc domes (the ones in your sig???) That's not right, here's what could be causing it. Bad/cheap gauge You're higher than 3000 or 4000 foot elevation You didn't kick it long enough or enough times You've got a bad seal somewhere. Trust me...leak down test the motor. My 4 mil cub had all new everything, still had a massive air leak at the base gasket....no mater how careful you put a motor together, shit still happens. You may or may not see smoke from burning coolant or gear oil....depending on how much is burning.. Do you have a pic of the plugs??

wesw has a lot of experience tuning the 34PJs.. Also...did you leak test the motor, compression test and measure the squish, as well?? Milky?? Is it possible you're leaking coolant into the cylinder? It should be black/brown/tan/white....NOT milky. You're either leaking coolant into the cylinder, or you're trying to burn gear oil via a bad crank seal.... Post up pics of the plugs...please.

You certainly didn't shop around, I could find half that stuff for half the price...however, your point is 100% dead on. It's not just a motor, it's the complete package. A big HP motor is nothing without a way to get the gas/air in and out of it, a tranny and clutch to handle it...and suspension/chassis/tires to get it to the ground.

Yep...Sefarian is a helluva guy....I got my Marvins from him. I'm a fanatic about Shearer...however, always a good idea to run what your builder suggests, it's their name and porting on the line.

If they are paper, I'd be using a thin coat of high temp RTV...but that's just me. If they're are the rubber kind with a sealing wire, no need.

Just be happy they weren't pink flamingos....(was going to do that to a buddy...but it's damn expensive to replace 'em when they get trashed...)

Impossible to say. I just saw a stock crank Sunday that had a cheezy weld on it, and it wasn't welded on the outside. This guy had a ported OEM motor...pipes, etc. His crank was already separating...and you've got a cub. It could start making noise (to let you know there's a problem) it could lock up completely...it could come apart...really, really hard to say. When you spin a motor to 11 or 12 K...things happen.

You better go pretty big on the motor....if you expect to beat a 450 dirt bike. They have 45HP or more...and they weigh half as much.

Yes...exactly. It should still run without the porting changed...it just won't run as well as it should...

Disconnect the TORS wires on top of each carb, disconnect the brain under the left side...under the gas tank, and disconnect the parking brake wires too. They Dyna puts out so much spark energy, you'll actually get it to fire one or two revolution even if the kill switch is turned off... Trust me on that....I'd hit my kill switch to get my time slip last year, then get back on and kick the bike. It fire for a brief second....then die. I just had the kill turned off....<insert sound of duh here>

Got it...will do. Thanks!!!

Alright youngin'...You're closer to my age than I am to John's... Fine...John and I will bring the record player and phonographs, the Atari and our commodore 64's, and you bring the diapers.... (both for your young ass and us Grandpas who need depends...) LOL... . :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: