Animalman294

The lubrication comes from the oil you put into the gas, you do mix your gas right........ . Again Loco is totally correct, (damn-it) The only oil is the tranny and the plug is on the bottom of the case............

I would start out with the o-rings, because it is a lot easier than tearing apart the rest of the motor. But just like on a vehicle clean off the black crap and watch it, you'll quickly figure out where it is coming from...........

My next thought was that you may be runnin' too rich, but it sounds like you are onto something with the faulty head............

Jeff has my motor or I would go look for you. If you don't get any takers look in your Clymer's or go to a Yami shop and see if they have an exploded picture of that part of the bike on a computer, and you will know if it is a plug or a bolt.............

Since you are welding on it and adding material to a round object, shouldn't you have it balanced after it is welded to be more accurate?

Thats a pretty good run for those mods. Those are the only mods you have? Cool beans man................

I believe you use a set of calipers that you can reach inside the barrel of the carb with. You need to read the narrowest point inside the carb, because this is the smallest area of the carb that the air is forced to go through. You may also tell us what kind of carbs they are. That may help others help you if the caliper thing doesn't work, but I would think that the carb would have the number stamped on it somewhere...................

You might check the tops of your carbs if you didn't do the work. When I bought my bike from this jackass who thought he was a mechanic. Well, when he put the new T-5's on he re-jetted the carbs, but when he screwed the tops of not just one but both carbs back on he fu**ed up. When he put the slide return spring back in he didn't center either one of them and caught them between the cap and the body of the carb. They not only had an air leak, but they were sucking sand............

Businesses always suck when they first start up, but it will get better soon enough...

Just take it to a shop and they will true it for you if it is messed up, and since they have it out you may as well have them weld it for you too......

Ya, I agree it's bullshit when an illegal woman manages to sneak across the border 8 months and 29 days after getting pregnant, drop her kid on american soil, and (poof) she and her kid are now conveniently citizens of the United States. What a country..................... Don't get me started..............................

Happy Birthday...........

Txblue, I'm curious to know how the stock geometry creates impotence . Thats some freaky shit there.......... Just razzin' ya, I couldn't let that typo slide, ya damn near made me fall out of my chair when I read that .

AAAAhhhhhhhhhhhh take turns, stop it you're killin' me..........

Ya, I'd like to know too. So when you try it let us know about how the performance is............

It sounds like you may be trying to find that best all around pipe. The pipes are usually designed for a specific purpose or portion of the powerband, or types of mods. CPI's, Shearer's, Rocket are drag pipes and like higher hp motor's, but ones like T-6's like more stock applications. It depends on what you plan on doing in the future..........

It is really going to depend on what you are ultimately going to build the bike to do. Dragging would use Shearer's, or CPI, and duning could use either of those or T-5's or Fatty's. Like stated above need more info, but a search and a lot of reading will give you a pretty informed answer........

Ultimately you are going to have to do a plug chop to make sure you are jetted correctly. Better to be safe than sorry.............

You might check your float and make sure it doesn't have a leak, because if it doesn't float high enough the fuel will not shut off and will start to overflow...........

Well that makes more sense, didn't think about different manufacturer's (daaah). I also didn't think about the different configuration either. Thanks guys for clearing that up...........

The measurement should be with calipers, and it will be the narrowest part of the carb that the air has to pass through. Stock is 26 mm, but if it is 28 you may want to go talk to the guy you bought the bike from...........

I think the larger diameter rim is going to have more centrifugal weight to spin, and the smaller rim will have less. I guess if you have the power to pull larger diameter tires say 22's the minute amount of extra weight will not affect you. Just a thought.........

Hell, I'd make him cozy too. I'd even throw in my wifes sister.........

Ya, I think when I get my shee back together I am going to try the stock gearing and see where that puts me. It'll definately be faster............

So what was the gearing that you are changing it to at sand mountain? When you get back let us know how it went with the new gears.......