pimpeinkc

i have had trouble with my clutch not disengaging, but that sounds a lot different, if the plates are seperating then you would think it would roll, have you taken the clutch off compleatly and checked if it would roll, then you would at least be able to look for a bind over there.

i get a lot of my parts through mark at bto, he is good about giving a discount on large orders.... my .02

nitrogen doesn't expand and contract like regular air with heat and cold which means your tire psi will be consistant in all conditions and even if you are running it hard and heating up the tire. that is why they use it.....

no shit, i have 21cc domes and i have higher compression then that. get some rings or something, then start in 1st or 2nd, have you been running high octain gas with those domes, anything under 20cc needs higher octain, might have burnt the rings some..... good luck, and let us know if it fixes your problem, till then i want to race..lol

you can get the billet kind that have o-rings in them and don't acctualy clap on, that would still allow it to flex, hope you figured it out though.

i have tr6's, the sound sweet, and pull hard, great pipes but i think i like the hit from the t5's., the tr6's seem to come on in the higher rpms and the t5's seem to hit right as the power band kicks, i had t5's, bought tr6's and sold the t5's now i have bought a new set of 5's cause they rip and sound and look awesome. dfrom my trial and error, i would go with the t5's, plus they are cheaper..

come now, think!!!!

come on now, he was able to find the site, that is the hard part. lmao i know one guy on here was able to get his bike to run with out the reed cages in it at all" lotf lmao " i wont name drop but after BBIII saw them on the shelf he reilized why he was having issues. i would get on the net. find a illistrated break down of your carb, figure out what is missing, and get the carbs whole again, and while you are waiting on the parts you need you can check your jetting and clean them up so that will be out of the picture. carbs are tricky, thats right there tricky. get them right and move onto the next thing it could be. good luck, and just for the sake of the forum,,,, BANSHEE,,,, so there now don't pick on me guys.....lol

when i got my pipes it said to take those off when i rejetted, what are they for any way. splash gaurd or something

i agree, i ran my tr6's with 320 mains and 32.5 pilots. ran great. but i got a few other mods. i would go with 280's if you are stock the rest of the way, i know a guy that had troble with fouling his plugs with a 320

t5's are the $hit.... i had t5's, went to tr6's, missed the pull from the 5's so now i am back there. i ride my shee in all conditions and the t5's on a stock banshee will hang pretty close with my built yfz450. i would go with the t5's i know 2 stockers with them and they love them and me well, not stock but i love them too......just my .02

did it run when you bought it. or did you get it like it is now. if it fires, and dies, i would check your plugs like they have said. then move on to pilot jet mak sure it is not clogged, and i would also check the sync like before stated. does it do any better with the chock on

sounds like detonation, i would check compression. if not that the lean maybe. it is too hot in there.

i think the foot peg bolts are m10, if i were you i would buy an m10 tap and try to clean up what is there. but i am not you so i don't know the extent of the damage. if it is really bad, the drill it out and tap it to m12, buy a helicoil and put that in the m12 hole which will give you back the m10 threads, make sure you use a thread lock on the helicoil, i like loctite 680(green) for such a repair, if you need drill sizes or something like that let me know. but that is a way better fix than welding something in there. good luck and if you need some advice on anything else let me know. i work as a maintenance tech and have full use and knowledge of the machine shop so i deal with this type of repairs all the time. they let me sneak in my custom atv work when no one is looking

i would pull the clutch cover, might have a bolt loose on the clutch or some where in there, and that is not good. if you got a new top end you should be okay there as long as all the bolts are still tight, why are you running high octain on stock compression? keep us posted on what you find as you take it apart.

if you are looking for bolt on performance.... exhaust $400 - $800 carberator(s) $400 - $600 head $100 - $300 depends on if you get a milled head or an aftermarket one cdi - $100 - $400 depends on if you get a programable one or instead of cdi advanced timing - $4.00 - $80 depends on if you get a degree key or an adjustable timing plate that is about it for the bolt on performance then you can have the motor ported for around $500 for a good port job you can have your flywheel lightened to give you more acceleration. you can stroke it for more displacment. and on and on and on,,,,,,,,,, nos, turbo, you name it they make it. but the bolt on's will make it pretty damn fast.

when i went to the dunes last time, i was getting pissed at it not wanting to idle. i tried all the way up to a 58 pilot and of course it made it bog like hell. i have put the 42 pilot in it and it still didn't care to idle. i can make some ghetto shit at work and use the adjustment on my throttle to make it idle. i just like the thought of it being right and would like to have it idle with no cable on it at all. if it is possable. any other ideas about something inside the carb being off. i have had the bowl apart but i have not taken the rest apart. any one know of anything inside the carb other than jets that would cause it not to idle? or something i might have over looked when i did the rebuild? thanks again

i will try that out and see what happens. thanks

i ran it at the dunes and it did good, i think cause i was up in the higher rpms, i have cut the spring, you told me to do that in a post a while back, now it will idle with out the throutle, but it still dies and i am out of adjustment again. right now i have a 48 pilot, 180 main and needle on the 3rd clip.... could it be my float or something with the slide its self maybe?...

yeah, i never use the chock. the plugs are dark, i was riding in the trails and going slow most of the time, not hitting the power band much, i think that helped foul them,

okay, i have 60 over pistons, just installed. switched to t5's from my 6's, put a 2 into 1 with 35 pwk, can't get it to idle for crap, keep fouling plugs, not haveing a great time with it. when it runs up, it seems okay, but fouling plugs and not idleing is going to drive me crazy. any help would be great. thanks a lot in advance

i would start out with 320 or 340 mains and 30 to 35 on the pilot. work your way up from there. i think the 340 mains will be just right for your set up though

okay, i went from t5's to tr6's and felt like i lost the power. so i bought a 2 into 1 with the 35 mm carb and was still not happy with it. it has never wanted to idle. i got it to half ass idle and switched back to the t5's. the power still feels like it is not what it once was and still don't like to idle. so i ask the collective knowledge of this wonderful site. does it sound right that the 2 into 1 with a 35mm carb would be worse than stock carbs with this set up and what would be the best place to start with the jetting? my bike is basicly stock, i have a cleanup port and a cool head with 21cc domes t5's and a single 35 kehin, thanks in advance.

when my bike only had t5's and a cool head i was running 340 mains. if all you have is the t5's i would run the 270 or 280 mains, maybe 320. no hogher than that. my friends bikes ( 2 of them) i know hard to belive i have 2 friens, is stoke except for the t5's and they run 300 mains and keep up with my 450 pretty good. hope this helps

it is such a pain to run that stuff, can't mix with this, can't mix with that. i have the pro design impeller and some inline coolers. so i quit using that stuff. i would rather pay a bit more up front to mod my system than 18 bucks for 2 liters or what ever that engine ice costs. i would stick with regular anti freeze mixed to the right amount. that way if you need to stick some water in there to get back to camp it is not a big deal.