BigRed350x

Check out sudco. Give them a call and they can help you out. - jared

I'd start off a size or two bigger on the main jet, but if it ran good before I would leave your other jetting alone. Just go up on the main to be safe and check your plugs after riding a little.

I'd have lynn go through them and do some of his porting on them, or at least do a once-over on them. You've probably seen his son's 20mil. I've spent some time at lynns shop with him and seen the porting he's done on the 20 and its nice work. Also seen it run on the mountain. The vids of that 10mil dm are a load of crap if you hear the actual circumstances. They just posted the vids of when he won, then packed up and left once the 20 got dialed in. Have lynn do your twister.

check your jetting and clean your carbs. Also check for air leaks around all your gasket surfaces.

REDUCE THE SIZE OF YOUR SIG PIC!!

Tell them jesus said you needed a break.

REDUCE THE SIZE OF YOUR SIG PIC!

Whats your elevation?

Why dont you just float the ground and convert to a DC system?

You are also over-loading the ratings for the stock switch and harness. Might have a melted wire in there somewhere. I'd at least run your two bigger lights on their own switch. The stock light switch is set up to handle the factory two 35watt bulbs and you've got 170watts going through it.

Talk to lynn at LC Performance. He will get you a good deal on the cheetah blocks.

you wouldnt have to deal with deadbeats if you used paypal. :shoothead:

Sweet, now chop off the dumbo ears and you will be set.

Eric Gorr does some amazing porting if you dont mind sending stuff overseas. lol

17mm on the flywheel, the nut on the other end of the crank is like a 24mm (i think) and the one on the clutch is a 32mm. I think the sprocket nut is also a 32mm.

If it truely is bone stock then pump gas will be fine. Stock heads have some huge domes and not much compression. Pump gas will be fine.

Weird shit happens. Maybe some sand found its way into the carb and clogged up a jet. Whatever happened, I would tear it apart and check the bottom end...

www.rockymountainatv.com and just get a tusk unit. They are a good stock replacement clutch and handle power quite well when matched up with a good set of springs or a lockup. I put a tusk unit in my 4mil duner the last time I blew up some FZR fibers and its been holding up fine. I got in a bind at sand mountain once and put a tusk kit in my 10mil with a twister lockup and it held fine in the 10mil as well.

Have you checked your voltage regulator? It might be bad, causing your problems. Also, are you floating the ground on the stator and doing the DC conversion, or just trying to run more lights off the stock stator and switch and stock wiring harness??

There's actually a couple holes like that in the banshee case. I know a few of them, and some of the weird mounts (or what appear to be mounts that just weren't machine out) were for the speedo mounting hardware on the RZ streetbikes that these engines were based off of. Some of them are oil relief holes and for lubrication of bearings and bushings... I think that one is for something that was on the RZ engines, but not really sure. Maybe a consideration for future engine modifications yamaha had in mind but never got around to doing??

Wako, seriously dude, reduce the size of your sig pic its annoying as all hell.

dont waste a bore if you dont need it. hone it and get a set of stock size wiseco pro-lites and put them in and check your ring end-gap. If its too big, then do the bore and go to the next size. Most times you will be able to just get away with a hone job and be good to go. Just be sure to check your piston/cylinder clearance and ring end gap before you just slap it together and ride it. - Jared

Timing key or the timing plate. If all you ever plan to do is 4 degrees then the key will work. People say they sheer off, but the only thing the key does is index the flywheel on the crank. The taper on the flywheel and crank is what holds the flywheel on and when people have problems with them sheering off its from improper torque, not the key. If you only want to go 4 degrees, then the key will work, just be sure to tighten and torque it all back up good. The timing plate is what most people go for. It gives you more adjustability, and if you dont like the key idea, they work great. I use the timing plate on mine.

Its an acid bath that I use to spray pedophiles like michael jackson with.

Advance your timing to 4 degrees and get a set of pipes. DMC 916's or PT Mids for your riding. Later when you have more funds go for a cool head and some aftermarket reeds. Then porting and bigger carbs. I'd start by ditching the stock junk pipes.