BigRed350x

On all of my bikes I run the overflow line from the radiator down one of the frame rails and let it hang a couple inches below the bike. The degassing line I just run from the head straight up to the radiator like the stock setup. I combine all my carb and engine breathers below the bike with a ziptie and combine into larger diameter tubing and run out back along the swinger. Any drips go out the back. Methanol isn't too kind to any kinda paint or PC. Chrome is about the only thing I've fond that doesn't get upset by methanol. lol

Pull your clutch cover off, remove your clutch and check the shift star and actuator arm for anything out of ordinary... That's a good start. Its nothing to pop your clutch cover off. Maybe cost you a gasket is all, but you can put it back on with some high temp oil resistant silicone if you need.

4 degrees is good on a stock bike. Ability to run different gas depends on altitude, compression, squish, blah blah blah... do a search.

sent you a pm... i'll trade ya.

Rock Springs, WY you?

Measure the deck height. How much did he take off the stock head? What thickness gaskets did he install below the cylinder? Did he use a new head gasket? What kind of pistons did he get? 513 series, 795 series, etc. Check the piston tops and let us know what pistons they are and we can help more. I agree, might have gotton a longrod stock crank or stroker crank. Maybe the wrong pistons. Could be correct bore, but incorrect piston design. Measure the deck height and let us know what it is.

When you re-assemble your top end be sure to check your piston to cylinder clearance. Looks like it might have been piston slap that broke your pistons. Especially since it did it front and back. Too much clearance and it lets the piston rock back and forth in the cylinder. Higher RPM's make short work of a rocking piston.

I agree, use the search. But if you do dune riding, trails and drag racing I would go with the T5's for pipes. VForce 3's and a set of billet aluminum intakes with the rubber boot you can change out. Trinity, Boss, K&T, all kinds of people make them. Step up to some 33mm carbs for a stock motor and you will be set. Advance your timing by modding the stock plate or buying an aftermarket one. Get a cool head of some sort if you don't have one yet. Basic stock bike mods... cool head advance timing reeds pipes intakes and carbs K&N pod filters for above carbs. then do some porting to really wake it up.

If you are running a pump with keihin carbs you will need to order a set of 1.5 needle valves and seats. That will definitely help with your overflow problem. If you run a pump with the 3.8's that come stock it will fill up too fast and flood out your breathers. Pumper style carbs also have small brass fixtures inside the main body of the carb that have really small pinholes in them before the breather tubes. Helps prevent this problem. If you do any kind of really long wide open throttle stuff a pump is always a good idea. I run methanol on my duner and I run billet bowls and a pump. No fear of running out of fuel. If you are just a casual duner/racer you should be fine with just gravity feed. The dunes I ride its not uncommon to be 4th, 5th and 6th gear wide open for more than 45sec to a min. I sucked a set of billet bowls dry on my methanol duner with a pingel valve doing this and decided to try a pump. Won't ever go back.

If your planning on boring it out for more power, ditch the idea. Save your over-bores for when you need them.

Interested in just selling the 2into1 part? I don't need the carb or the airbox boot...

I have a set of Big Bore Out Of Frame CPI Pipes, 1 out each side. Bare metal, ready for chrome or paint. Both pipes are in excellent shape, 1 little ding on one pipe about a half-dime size. Good welds, no cracks or anything. Small flange. Great pipes for a 4mil or bigger cub. LOTS of guys on planetsand are running the big bore pipes on their 4mil setups with good results, including titan. These are AWESOME pipes for a 10mil cub for those out there who have one. I'm looking for some in-frame pipes for a duner I'm building. T5's, Pro Curcuit, etc. Don't care too much about shape, as long as they aren't junkers. I don't care about bluing. Surface rust doesn't bother me since I can re-chrome or paint the pipes. Whatcha guys got?

I had the same problem with my 10mil and it cost me. One of the first few times I ran it I sheared a timing key and it jacked up the end of my crank. Nothing that wasn't fixable, but still a headache I could have done without. On my 10mil I always had to put blue loctite on it. I also do the same on my 4mil.

Anyone else had trouble with them? I sent payment for some random parts, the dumb bitch refunded my payment the same day through paypal, then filed a claim against me saying I never paid. Submitted all the info to paypal and ebay and they ruled in my favor. Just curious if anyone else has had trouble with this lady? Stay away from sport atv salvage on ebay.

Porting, Bigger carbs, different pipes, advance your timing 4-7 degrees.

Great seller! I've spoken with him many times. Bump! Good luck with the sale, great looking bike!

I'm "out west" and make ok money, but spend all my money on banshee parts.

I got a steal on a set of cross-drilled brake lines, and a sweet new u pipe. I also opted for a new muffler bearing, my old one was getting a little worn.

Just wanted to say... I love ebay. I scored a complete engine, including all the clutch side and stator side components, cylinders, intakes, reed spacers, head, blah blah blah for $555. One of the bearings on the crank is seized up, but I've got the crank out of my 06 sitting in the shed. Split the cases and drop it in, and a new top end & a quick cleanup and hone and I've got a nice play bike. Only missing some eletrical crap and a swingarm bolt. Other than that I've got everything I need to throw together another. :biggrin:

I've met firehead in person and talk to him pretty often here on HQ. He lives in an industry where he uses everything he talks about day in and day out. He definitely knows his stuff.

I have yet to see a fuel injection system for the banshee that was worth what they were asking for it. Stop and think... ever consider why all the big boys in this sport are still using carbs? Don't you think that if fuel injection was such a hot amazing thing that at least some of the big builders and big bikes out there would use it?? Just a thought.

I'll pass on the a-arms. Got a set on ebay I was bidding on that are new.

Dibs on the +2+1's... PM sent. Paypal ready!

Looks like some kind of a ram-air setup.

check www.rockymountainatv.com