BigRed350x

Just get a stock transmission and get the gears side cut and get a modded star and you will be ok for the dunes. The lockup clutch setup should be fine, the 10mils have enough torque you won't notice the lockup on there.

38pwk sound huge for that setup. 33 or 35's would be plenty for a stock stroke. might sound stupid, but you are holding the throttle wide open when you do your compression check right?

I'll take a set. Sent ya a paypal payment just now... black outerwears. Thanks man!

Most stock PWK's come with 3.8 needle valves and seats. If you had something smaller I would change it out unless you run a pump, then a 1.5 is appropriate. Try a 58 pilot and it will help out your bottom end a little. 60 just seems huge to me.

I'm confused as well as to what he's talking about... IF your talking about the little curved pieces of metal that screw in on top of the reeds themselves then yeah, just bend them all about the same and you should be ok.

Dammit Kiel you beat me to it. lol

You will need to do or have the following things done, before you worry about jetting... Dump Tubes need to be drilled out to anywhere between .120 and .125 I go .120 to start with mine. DONT go bigger than .125" or your tubes are junk, and since you have PWK's you'd be screwed. So start off small and go bigger only if you need it. .120" is a good starting point. If you are running gravity feed go with a 3.8 or 3.9 needle valve and seat. If you run a pump go with 1.5 needle valves and seats. Drill/tap/install power jets. If your carbs are already converted for you here's a good starting point for jetting... 55 pilots .120 main jet (make sure your dump tubes are drilled to at least .120", a stock .113" main jet wont let a .120" flow...) EGN or EGQ needle on middle clip Power Jets opened all the way up to start. Start off WAY rich and work your way down. Watch your color rating on your plugs. Alky plugs read totally different than gas plugs. You might consider installing EGT sensors to keep an eye on things. Alky will run good even rich to the point your spewing fuel out the exhaust. It will really wake up when you get close, but you should also plan on going through at least 1 top end. Almost everyone does the first time on alky. At the first sign of any trouble shut it down and tow it home/load it up and check things out. DONT try and ride it back if it acts anything weird at all and you can save yourself a lot of trouble on rebuild later. Those jetting specs should get you close at any elevation, especially lower ones. I'm at 7200ft elevation and here's what I run... 52 pilot .110 main EGN needle on 2nd to top clip Power Jets around 1 or 2 turns out. I'm damn near close to the verge of being perfect but run mine a little rich. But remember I am at 7200ft elevation! Hope that helps you. - Jared

Huh? Won't fit back into what hole? And how do you know that one of your reeds is opening more than the other??

Plus... with the lightened flywheel you will loose too much when you have to let off the throttle to miss a tree or something, then you lose your rpm's and die off too fast. The heavier flywheel helps hold your engine's momentum up so when you get back on the throttle you're not going to just bog out. (or at least that's what you hope for)

Some 110 or 112 will be fine for you. Anything above 155 you need race gas.

Very good point. And yeah, the pic was just for reference. Your real power is in the exhaust and transfers. But everything has to work as a complete package. I had some horrible looking cylinders on my 87 and it ran freakin awesome, even with the stock pipes on it!

Stock stroke Cheetah Cub VForce3's Cool Head 33-35mm carbs longer swingarm better rubber to get that power to the ground That setup will get you 70-80hp without having to split your cases and put in another crank. BUT If you go to higher compression its a good idea to get your crank trued and welded, in which case you will have to split the cases anyway, and if that's the case, spend the extra $400 for a 4mil crank that's already trued and welded and the 4mil casting of the cub cylinders cost the same as the stock stroke casting. Or you can run the stock crank with that setup until it lets loose or you have problems, then upgrade later. OR! Port your stock cylinders, Reeds Cool Head Carbs Swinger. Cub cylinders are around $800-900 Good port job around $300-400, possibly less depending on where you go and what you want done. Good porting places... LC Performance A&S FAST Dune Trash Racing Herr Juggs There's a zillion places that do porting. Look at peoples signatures and you can get some ideas of places. Call them and talk to them and go from there.

Lighter is faster. Simple as that. A totally stock frame with the rear grab bar in place weighs around 50lbs. If you remove all the stock mounts for shit you dont use they will get down around 40lbs. Losing 10lbs in a day from not eating isn't a very easy task. I'd rather take the few hours and grind all the nasty looking shit off my frame.

Heres a pic for comparison... this is from a set of cylinders from colorado performance. Real strong dune port. The company is now closed unfortunately or I would send you to them.

Depends a LOT on the fuel you run, and the type of oil you use. A lot of oils will produce more carbon buildup than others. I can see very very little carbon buildup if any after over a year of use with my shearers and running on methanol with castor927. I've heard that klotz super has even less carbon buildup.

There are two of those little ones that hold a half-moon shape piece that holds one of the trans bearings in place and helps tie the who halves of the case together. Could be one of those? :shrug: Take a picture of the screw and who us and we might be able to help you more.

Use an air cutting tool or a dremel and a cutting wheel and you can do nice clean cuts on the retarded stock gussets and mounts, and use a sanding wheel/disc to clean everything up. You can do a frame in an afternoon if you have some basic tools.

Def. drain the gas tanks and your carb bowls. Pull your plugs and spray some wd-40 on the cylinders and pistons to prevent any chance of rust. Put plugs in your pipes to keep any kinda moisture out. Other than that, I wouldn't worry about much.

I've already got two flux capacitors on mine!

The whole 10mil setup sold on ebay, and the carbs I was selling sold to a local guy. I have a set of 42mm mikuni round slides from a snowmobile that I can set up on alcohol if anyone wants them.

Have you checked your reeds for cracks or chips? Tried new plugs? Have you checked your filters inside your gas tank to make sure they aren't plugged, preventing fuel from getting to your carbs?

Holy Shit! Run down to your local hardware store and you can pick them up for around $.30-.50 a piece. Don't spend more than $5 on acorn nuts or your getting ripped off.

Yes, you will definitely need to sync the carbs after they are on. Its a little bit harder to tune with split intakes depending on what your carbs and engine setup are. I've had both, built-in crossover and split, and haven't noticed much of a difference between the two either way.

Yeah, thats part of the main housing and it sounds like your screwed.

Try new gas. Your jetting doesn't seem out of whack.