BigRed350x

Zip ties will work fine, what makes you think they wont work?

I'm running this junk for hillshooting this year... 4mil gorr woods port in-frame shearers +2+1 arms w/ stock tires (my dune tires have too much offset and smash into trees) +4 swinger 35 pwk's on methanol (also have a set on gas) have a bunch of paddle and gearing options... 22" 10 paddle extremes 21" 9 paddle extremes 20" 10 paddle haulers I like the 20" 10 paddle haulers the most, but they dont give me the clearance I need for the hills rippen and theshee are talking about. I'd have a chain full of sand and some unhappy times... - Jared

I wouldnt go crazy buying parts until you actually pull the clutch cover, clutch, and visually inspect the shift components... Just because a buddy tells you it might be something, doesn't mean that's what it is... I agree with the above post, its probably the shift claw not engaging correctly on the shift star. I've seen the springs on the claw get worn and not return the mechanism to its correct place. Check the shift claw mechanism and if you dont find your solution there, split the cases and check your shift forks. Once you've inspected and checked everything, then order the parts you need to fix it, if any.

Don't quote me on this, but I believe its 98db. I know most T5 owners have to run a hush-kit. You can pick one up from rockymountainatv.com in the exhaust section. I know spark arrestors are also required.

Just curious... how did you get a compression reading with the engine under load?

A very good point, often overlooked.

That looks like some "majic" right there... Sorry to hear it about the bearings. ...a side note... From some reading over on planetsand, people over there are suggesting the maxload bearing on the stator side. People have reported a couple failures of the TZ on the stator side. I dont remember the cause, but they are sticking away from the TZ on the stator side. Go with the maxload.

I've got both... a 4mil stock cylinder with a mean port job and a ported A&S 10mil cub. The 10mil is a hell of a lot more expensive than the 4 and tends to find weak links in your setup for you. lol! The 4mil is more fun to ride in the dunes, but the 10 is a lot faster and better for racing IMO. If you are building it strickly for drag racing go with the 10, you will thank yourself in the end. If you are building it for duning then the 4mil is the better choice. I have about the same amount of $$ in both machines, but the 10 has a higher initial cost.

Did the guy at least hone them after he was done hacking them up? Post pics of the carnage...

Ive got this junk for sand... Stock modded frame, all the crap removed and tubing put in where the gay factory gussets are. +4 chrome round-house swinger +2+1 LSR heim chromoly a-arms w/ hd backing plate down by the shock Works triple rates w/ rezzy's rebuilt/revalved rear w/ heavier spring anti-vibe stem +2 longer hi-rise bars 4mil stroke 5mil longrod ported stock cylinder cool head w/ custom domes vforce3 in-frame shearers billet impeller mikuni 35.5's on methanol fuel pump 3.5gal extra tank out back side-cut gears shift drum on bearings shift star mod shift pro billet basket pancake bearing 6hd springs 10padd haulers +4 axle billet sprocket, brake, and wheel hubs laser-cut brake rotor braided steel brake lines billet alum. footpegs billet shifter blah blah blah... chrome and PC out the ass. ...and yes I do have sand tires for the front. lol These pics were with the +6 swinger

There's a little oil joint a few blocks down from my house where you can get 55gal of regular ol methanol for around $120.

Firehead, just take a dremel and move the stop over a smidge. Sometimes where the little arm hits the stop it isn't quite far enough. Just hit it with a dremel and carbide bit and see if it helps... - Jared

I was going to do the same thing the next time I tore one of mine down completely, its just too damn time consuming to slow down and video/pictures of everything. Go for it if you have the time... - Jared

Way cleaner than the walkthrough I did a few years back. I'll have to do a total teardown walkthrough thats clean one of these days... Nice find. - Jared

I've ridden with this guy before... awesome bike, runs great! Excellent guy to deal with! If you decide you want to part it out, give me a call I'll buy a bunch of stuff from ya! - Jared

Bump, make offers!

bump! Don't make me keep this & build a stock-stroke duner or something... come on people, someone needs a crank that's practically brand new! :thumbsup:

Bump for a nice guy with some nice toys!

Stock crank out of an 06 banshee. Bought it new off the showroom floor and tore it down to build a drag bike. Did a couple heat cycles, rode it for an afternoon and once more a couple days later. After that I tore it down and the parts have been in pelican cases since. Less than 10hrs stock crank. $250 shipped.

Bump for NYUK Your sig cracks me up...

I haven't had them out of my crap-box since I got them, but I do believe they are upp.

Thinking about parting out some stuff off my 10mil... Its a 10mil Cub cleanup ported by A&S 68mm bore w/ pistons w/about 5hrs on new pistons. One cylinder has a scratch but doesn't affect it. I've run them with the scratch in them since I bought them. +10mm stroke billet crank w/ TZ bearing on output side and Maxload bearing on the stator side. I had a timing key break and it wallowed out the timing key hole on the crank, but I had my local machine shop guys make me a new key that fits the flywheel exactly and its been welded into the crank. The new welded key is made of hardened steel. I haven't had any problems with it like this, in fact I'm going to do the same thing to my 4mil duner next time its apart, but thought people should know if they were thinking about it. Trenched cases & ported to match the cub cylinders Noss head with 18cc BB domes 38mm intakes still in packaging. BB OOF CPI's, bare metal, 1 out each side. I'm keeping all the clutch, kicker, lockup and transmission parts. This is just the cases, crank, cylinders, intakes, head, domes, and pipes. This post is just to judge interest in it as I haven't decided if I really want to sell it or not yet. Just looking for some extra holliday cash and to finish my new chassis for my duner. Let me know if anyone is interested in it. Just doing rough figuring $900 for cylinders $800 for crank, $300 for cases, $200 for head & domes, $50 for intakes, $300 for pipes... so $2500 or so for everything together. - Jared

I did that to a set of 33's when I ran them on my old cub setup last year. Cut one float out of them for more fuel. The seller should have informed you of the missing floats though. - Jared

I've been using the red high-temp gas/oil resistant silicone for something like 8 years now and haven't had a single problem with it whatsoever. I put a small bead on both sides of the cases and put them back together and let it dry over-night in a heated garage and just peel away the excess the next morning. Also use it on intakes, and I had a problem with an air leak around the square key on a big stroker crank once and filled the key with the same stuff and no more leaky. lol. I will probably put some on my next base gasket on my 10mil since my cubs are ported and my cases are matched and it doesn't leave much room for the gasket. I'm going to do more epoxy work on the cases and get some more gasket area next time its apart... - Jared

Sent ya a PM on DR about these. Will be in cheyenne this weekend, maybe I could come pick them up from you guys?