sheefreak

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It is a TORS problem. This should answer all of your questions and more. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

+8 would be great for a dragger, maybe even longer. But if you go over six, you lose most if not all turning agility. For a duner, you may want to stay a +6, but your front tires won't be on the ground much.

I agree. I know the 450 dirtbikes get the power to the ground, and are fast, but open that motor up some and get it to hook pu, you should walk the 450.

Impact is by far the way to go. I have seen where people have welded a steel rod to a few of the clutch steels(plates) and made holding tool this way. It is regular thread. You can also jam a rag in between the primary drive gear and driven gear to get the actual basket part of it to stay still, but will still need to find a way to hold the inner hub. You may want to try to make the holding tool if you don't have an impact. Then you also have a way to hold it when it comes time to torque that nut.

Vouchers are free, just have to get in line and wait. Vouchers are only for Saturday and Sunday, and Holidays that fall on a weekday. If you go w/the group, some of the guys that have been there have figured out the easiest way to get vouchers, follow them. Need an ORV for any vehicle you will drive in the dunes, not sure what they cost for out of state, but you can buy them at dune entrance. If you are just towing your quad into the parking lot and leaving your truck in the lot, it will not need one. All vehicles that enter park period must have state park pass. Will need one for truck and every quad, bike, etc. And no bikes have to be titled or anything like that to get passes. If you don't already have one, whip flags are fairly priced priced at various locations in town. If I have missed anything, feel free to ask. I live 2 hrs away and am there almost every other weekend between Memorial day and Labor day, so the ones who are farther out should pic a few possible weekends and post as it will be easier for us residents to plan and attend.

I have had mine for 3 yrs and have never run headlights.

You should probably search for something like this, but most people run 32 to 40:1 depending on what oil you run and many other things.

I wouldn't worry about it personally, but sounds like you are using an excessive amount.

It doesn't matter if it starts good when warm. When the engine heats up it expands creating more compression, and you don't need the choke to start it when it is warm anyway. You still haven't eliminated these two possibilities. Do you know that the 05 carbs have never been taken apart. Last person could have put them back together wrong, did you ever look to see if the pilot was clean since you had them? When the engine is warm, needs less fuel to start. I cleaned a friends carbs on a Blaster last fall, and rebuilt the top end. Started awesome before I left. He calls me this spring, says he hasn't ridden bike at all and it won't start. He even put stabilizer in the gas. Doesn't take much to clog your pilot jet. I am still betting on low compression though!

I hear white knuckle builds some fast ass bikes, but from what I understand the guy is picky and choosey as far as who he will build for.

Sell the T6's, get your shearers now.

Could be a few problems here. Have you had your carbs apart lately. Need to make sure that Pilot jet is clean, they gum up real easy. Second, if you have had your carbs apart, make sure you didn't swap float bowls, if you did, the choke will not work properly. Also need to check your compression. May want to do this first, cause if compression is low, nothing is going to help you besides a rering and hone or possibly rebuild all together. Also make sure your choke tubes between carbs is on and not cracked. This will also cause the choke to not work correct. Check these things and get back w/us.

For the superlites, yes.

How much locktite are you using? I wouldn't see it causing you any problems, but I am still having a hard time envisioning what you are talking about.

Throttle override system, and the little black box is the brain. It is right underneath the gas tank as stated. Pull the wires apart, and start it, see how it runs.

I was refering to Kb7kuh's post. I would start w/290's and go from there. Just make sure you do a few plug chops to get it diald in from there.

It would actually richen it. Think of your jetting in terms of air to fuel, not fuel to oil. If you take away oil and have same size jet, more gas can get through jet. It might not even make a big enough difference to rejet just going from 32 to 40:1.

TORS is throttle override system. 25 is stock. I also ran fatty's, and ran close to KB7. I ran 310 mains, lowered the clip one notch, and 30 pilots as well. Fmf is off on the main, I would definately start fatter and go from there. Oh, and 310's is w/the lid off.

Have a stock clutch basket, very minor grooves. $50 shipped as long as they don't rape me for shipping to Canada.

You guys can talk about insurance all you want, but this guys builder is trying to get more money out of him. PM Jeff from F.A.S.T. and ask him his take on this. As stated by Trex, it will not hurt anything, but you are not going to outflow the 1/4 in gas line w/any stock jug setup unless on alky!

If you run it in the woods full time, go to a 13 thooth front sprocket. The PT mids are an excellent choice for woods riding. Hold your hand behind the right side silencer and rev it a little. See if you actually get oil to spray on your hand. The chances of haveing a bad crank seal on a new bike are pretty slim, but it bothers me that you have visible oil on the tips of your silencers.

Clutch fibers will last 2 to 3 times longer with one, can also run less stiff springs to save on fatigue, and lastly, you wil never get it to hook to its peak potential w/o one.

If you guys get bored, throw it on the other hose. Guarentee it won't be even noticeable on most temp guages.