sheefreak

Some people say this, but I don't agree. The scoops on an extreme are the same size just reinforced better. Are for higher horsepower apps. There will be a little difference in hookup as the haulers will or may flex more depending on the power output. But how much, and at what power range does this become an issue?

You're loosing me here bud. You said you replaced the reed in the first place and had no clue as to what your compression is. Now you are saying you did check it when the reeds were replaced.

Off the subject, but probably is a good thing. Thanks Jeff for the fast shipping and having exactly everything I needed in Stock ready to go!

Yes, there are bearings, and an inner shaft. Either or both could be f'd.

Chase, go blaze another man . He replied to my post and said it didn't run. You can check spark and make sure, but def. do a compression test before you start tearing into her. If you take that head off, you need a new head gasket right off the start. It does not mean you have a blown head gasket if your compression is low. That is the last thing I would be looking at now. If your reeds were trashed, there is a good chance there is a chunk, or a million chunks of metal loose in there. Do the compression test first, could be a 100 things wrong, need to eliminate some things first.

Yes, low compression will cause problems w/ cold starts. I would check the compression. Check your bowls to see if they were ever reversed. I see it was mentioned above, but not explained to you. If you put the bowls on the wrong carb(they will fit, and even look the same) the choke will not work properly. In the bottom of the bowl they are numbered, 1-1, and 1-2. 1-1 goes on the left side or side w/choke pull.

I am leaning toward the air leak. Anytime you are in the carbs to clean anything, always clean the pilot jets. They are the first to plug. There is a slight possibility this is your problem as you explain that it clears up at WOT. Clean the right carb againa and hit the pilot jet. IF that doesn't fix your problem, better look for an air leak. If your spark plug is white, that side won't last long so be careful. At 108 psi, you may want to think about at least a hone and re-ring soon, if not the whole top end.

Mine were perfect. If you look real real close(click to enlarge) they even came w/spark arrestors.

When you swapped the Reeds, did you clean the carbs? Why did you replace the reeds in the first place, did it not run then?

Mine was not welded. Purchased it 2 yrs ago tho. You will hear many opinions on what is high horsepower. If you are building a 4 mill, and are eventually going to pay the money to get it ported by someone reputable, that is going to classify you as high enough horsepower to be concerned. Once you have gotten to where you are even thinking about a 4-mill you are allready hooked, aren't you? And if you indeed are, you might as well build that crank to handle future further improvements, or you will be at square one again, "I need a crank". Just my $.02.

I will have some w/me when we go up. If you haven't found any by time you go, PM me and I will give you my cell# and meet you somewhere. Will be there the 13-14th if that is the weekend you are delayed to. Don't be dissapointed, that is the weekend of the Mt. Baldy hillclimb. Will see some of the most extreme machines that weekend. It's pretty cool!

I'll be there, will look for you all. Will be around the drag strip a lot.

You should post a link, I'm too lazy to go searching, but would probably buy one if right in front of my face.

When is the last time he changed it?

I live in Battle Creek. If you are taking I-94 over to 131 I am right on the way. I have lots of them sittin around, you can have them. Let me know, I should be home.(Nursing a back injury so I can go to Silver Lake the following weekend)

You guys can do what you like, but the Hot Rods cranks have been known(in high HP apps anyway) to come apart(welding will fix), and the factory bearings are questionable as well. My theory is the crank is the hart of your engine(and usually the most expensive single piece), don't skimp!

I would look for a used sprocket hub here. Not sure what new OEM is, but I am sure not cheap. If your chain has a lot of wear, you are going to want to replace the chain and front sprocket as well unfortuneatley.

Justintoxicated, don't buy expensive automotive paint. I bought dupont chromabase paint and clear, some high build primer, and a plastic adhesive promoter all w/flex additive. It will cost you some bucks. Go w/the Krylon Fusion or something out of a spray can for what you are doing right now. No matter what you use, as mentioned before, the key to a good paint job is prep, clean, prep, clean, prep, clean!!!! Any dirt or contamination at all, and your paint will start peeling there. Need to sand all the shiny off your plastics to be for sure everything will adhere if not using an adhesive promoter. I do anyway just to be sure. I use a 320-400 grit to achieve this. Get a big bottle of rubbing alchohol and clean surface after anytime you sand. Use Q-tips to get in tight spots. And any time you are going to spray, whether it be before adhesive promoter, primer, or paint, go over everything w/tack cloth to get all the fibers and hairs and any other foreign patricles. Oil from your fingers alone will hose up the paint, especally between the primer and paint application. If you have any questions, let me know, I will help you the best I can.

Guarenteed not from the factory. But when I had some work done by Patriot Racing, Dan informed me that he sold the Hot Rods crank new w/the bearing swap already done. Was cheaper than what I picked the crank up for + labor and bearings to have it done. I am not familiar w/Inland ATV, but if they know there stuff they may do the same! The TZ bearing is very distinct looking, you won't mistake it. Maybe someone has a picture of what one looks like they can post, mine is already together.

You can go w/a spacer plate for the stroker crank until you get the money to port the jugs and have the head cut to accept the extra stroke. If you go stroked and long rod, you need to run 795 series Weisco's, or Blaster pistons plus the stroker plate or port and cut domes.

If you want to do it right it is going to cost between $200-250. And that price doesn't allow you to make many mistakes. If it is a bike that is going to be duned, or see track only(drag) it is worth it. If you ride woods, mud, gravel, forget it. Take the $250 and buy some Maijer(spellcheck?) plastics. If you want the info let me know and I will explain to you what I know.

You can try some others, but they are all busy. Jim, or any reputable builder will have the TZ bearings. Some people put them on both sides but they are expensive! You could try Patriot Racing, http://www.patriotracing.net/ Grand River Racing, http://www.grandriverracing.com/main.html There are many more, but all are going to be busy!

Yup, Alba.

Hey, why didn't I think of that?