2Smoker

first of all - get the banshee you'll love it second of all - it's not the end of the world if you drink some beer or smoke a doob and go ripping I don't care what anyone says peace out

I did the exact same thing and just left it - as long as your gas tank will pull out leave it. You will weaken the welds bending it back even more than they already are. If you have to bend it make sure there are no cracks around the welds if there are you should re-weld it or strengthen the welds with a small piece of flat iron. Also make sure your steering stem didn't move - there is a stopper at the bottom that stops the stem from cutting too far left and right and when things get bent enough the stopper will not catch.

660 raptors are just a joke they're not worth putting money into I hope I don't offend anyone here but seriously I have seen piped raptors get beat by a 400ex and that's not saying much you'd be better off not buying one

The 700's work pretty good man I think you might want a port job +4 timing advance on race fuel and plane the head let all the air out of your tires if you race him on dirt and start in second and lean back rev the shit out of your bike and dump the clutch - if you're light wear a big bookbag full of beer or something try to get him to race on pavement. In theory it'll be a good race but if u spin the whole time the 4 poke will haul out of the hole. The 700's work good

A timing advance doesn't require you to change anything. I modified my stock plate +4 and it was the cheapest best mod I have ever done. I would change the domes to give you 160-170 PSI to go with the timing advance and run straight race fuel.

those gnarly's look like they chew. I have had to screw with gearing and tires drag racing ported 450's on dirt and I find the best way to win is run tall gearing and 20's and low air pressure. 16/41 for 20's is a perfect setup for blasting the 4-jokes with rocks if you ask me

Check your brake pads and make sure they aren't worn. Also make sure you have a block off plate to get rid of the parking brake that will give you problems. Fill your resevior up and screw the cap back on and pump the brake a couple of times holding the lever down still open the bleeder and let the fluid out keep the lever down still and tighten the bleeder screw up and let off the brake pedal. repeat this a few times and never let your resevoir get down too much keep topping it up that will purge all air out of the brakes I have had to do this a few times before to make everything OK

If you want to bump your compression up and freshen things order a wiseco piston kit with a head gasket, 2 base gaskets, wrist pin bearings, wrist pins, circlips and reed gaskets and new pistons and rings. Take your head off send it to a machine ship and get it shaved 30 thou to start with(it's cheap). Then get a 3 stone cylinder hone make sure there are no gouges on your cylinder walls and run the hone up and down 5 times or so to let the new rings seat. As for the starting problem - I would check the 2 wires that go to your coil - make sure the stake on wire connectors are tight (take a pair of pliers and crimp them a bit to make the connection good) and clean up the 2 leads coming from the coil. Also check your plug ends and make sure they are tight - pull them apart and crimp them a but to tighten them as well. Then put new BR8ES solid tipped plugs in and gap them. Check the tube that connects the carbs together - you should see a small piece of gas line between the insides of the carbs. Once your bike has warmed up does it start fine after that? Just starts hard when it's cold? Does it miss or cut out once you have been riding for any period of time? with 110 comperssion your bike should still start fine. also - get rid of that yamalube and run better oil

Hello I need some advice I went to kick my banshee over 2 days after the last ride in my garage and my crank siezed - I'm not surprised it got hot a few times on my vacation in the dunes but I couldn't stop spanking 450's all day long so anyways Right now I have all the mods done that are in my sig. My bike worked really really good in the dunes. It was kicking ass. I like to keep the motor looking stock because I like the sleeper look. I ordered a cold fusion wet kit I am going to go with a 15-20 shot and keep everything very well hidden. I don't want a chromed up billet banshee if I can help it I like telling everyone it's all stock with pipes. I have ported cylinders, shaved head, it's bored out 65.75 mm over now with wiseco pro-lites. I run stock reeds, reed spacers, stock carbs with pods and fmf fatty's and powercore 2 silencers. I put a hot rods stock stroke crank in last spring. I have tried boyesen reeds and vforce deltas call me crazy but I like my stock reed cages I am wide open 99% of the time anyways and my reed spacers are black so they're hard to spot. I called my parts guy and I ordered a hot rods 4MM stroker crank (5mm longrod) with the spacer plate and gasket kit. Also I ordered hot rods 66.5mm pistons with shorter skirts (for the stroker). Now I need to clarify some things - I have read you can run a stroker without a spacer plate but you need either a cool head with special domes or cut the domes on the stock head. Also I read somewhere that after your stock stroke jugs have been ported they cannot be ported to a 4 mil. I would like to keep my stock head and have my domes cut I think the machine shop I use can do it if it's possible. If I have to I will buy a black cool head. Also I am going to run into cooling issues. What can I do to make my bike run cooler - I am going to install a small battery and a rectifier to convert the ac stator power to DC power and charge my battery with it and put a fan on my rad that way if anyone asks about the battery or wires I can say it's for my fan. I also ordered a billet high flow impeller for my water pump. Would an aftermarket rad help? I ordered dual purges for my nitrous kit and I plan on putting the purges behind my rad to cool it off. I'll just say it's overheating and blowing antifreeze out. I want to do this right the first time I'm not worried about the nos install I don't think I'll use it much anyways just in case, but I need to cool my bike down and get the most power out of the stroker kit.

There is absolutely no miracle tire for a banshee it will chew whatever tire you buy to shreds my rule of thumb is never go over 20" for stability reasons and stay away from heavy 6 ply tires and stay off the pavement. I really like the kenda dominator they are cheap and are just like a holeshot.

x3

I have a 1/4 turn twist. I love it and this question has been asked many many times. I find it gives you the advantage when drag racing and it kicks ass hill climbing in the dunes. I feel sorry for the people who are scared of a twist - and I am sick of hearing how it equals death as well. I think a lot of those comments come from inexperienced riders though you should try one out for yourself and see first hand.

Throw a new hot rods crank in it shave your head and bore it out another 20 thou and put new pistons in it. Whatever you do don't drive it because something is going to fail and you're probably going to catch a port with a ring. Tear it apart and make sure your connecting rods aren't blue!

I would do a couple of things - take your carbs apart and clean them and check your plugs do a compression test and check your reeds. You didn't mention a timing advance - get a plate and advance it 3-4 degrees it'll wake it up if it's not done already also if you aren't running a dyna fs ignition throw iridium plugs in - they are indexed from the factory and the open electrode points at your intake every time it helps a bit. I would also get rid of the t5's and get some good in frames and maybe some clutch work. Also what kind of fuel are you running? some avgas or 110 will make it run better too

Get 20" tires for starters then try a 16/41 or 17/41 depending on how much power your bike has. My friend runs 20's with 16/41 and I run a 17/41 on 18" tires. It really depends on how much power your bike puts out but try a 16 front with 20's trust me you'll like it

Check out the cold fusion wet kit http://www.nitrousdirect.com/atvnitrous.html It's not that complicated It basically sprays fuel in with your nitrous and mixes it that's why the injectors have 2 inlets on them and one outlet I have been looking at a system and the cold fusion seems like the best boss noss also makes a wet kit i believe that comes with a fuel pump The only thing I wonder and it's never mentioned is our banshees put out 12v AC you would have to install either a battery or a rectifier but it's only 50 watts from a stock stator so I imagine you would have to disconnect lights I might order one up soon There are a few threads that already talk about nitrous try a forum search

Wow I don't know what to make of this gongshow thread - just to add my .02 I have been a member for awhile and BHQ is the best site ever and everyone here is really cool. I've bought parts off here, gotten great advice etc... lighten up just cuz there's a pic of a chick for an avatar SO WHAT gimme a break! BHQ is what it is it isn't changing one bit nor should it if you don't like it GO AWAY no one wants people whining about stupid shit like this here anyways

There isn't really much done to your friend's bike there's no point in putting nitrous on and that's a lot of money when you can get steady reliable horsepower out of a non nitrous engine. If you do get the kit tho don't go over a 15 shot...greedy nitrous users end up with blown engines

I've ran my fattys + PC2's with no endcaps and it just pisses everyone off you are riding with they all plug their ears its LOUD as hell I found no difference putting my endcaps back in and packing my silencers a bit. I don't think it hurts performance that much just eardrums. You will need earplugs!

You chould check the rubber part of your float needle and make sure it's clean and free of debris in your carb. Then you should bend the tab a little bit on the metal part that the float needle hangs off of. With your carb sitting upside down you should bend the tab downwards just a bit. There is a carb faq around here somewheres that shows pictures. I had the same problem and that fixed it.

Listen to me and pay no attention to the haters, 19" MXR6 fronts and 18 holeshot MXR6's on the back with 8" rims and 17/41 gearing KICKS ASS. I ride with cheetahs with my ported and pumped up 350 and it hauls my ass up hills like you would not believe, and very stable. Your's is stock so I would go with a 16/41 but no lower you lose alot of top with 18's but I love them and I have actually put them on and ride with them unlike most people who will tell you not to get 18's but have never tried them. just my .02

Dude, if you're in Moncton, call milligan's cycle works 854-4555 they have an rz350/rd350/banshee expert there he has rebuilt a lot of them ask for mike

I am partial to the twist throttle. I have driven dirtbikes and streetbikes all my life and I just like the twist better. It's all what you et used to, I dont think there's much difference. And with all the people who say a twist is more dangerous etc... I am sick of hearing it. What do you think they use on mx dirtbikes and crotch rockets anyways? Just because you don't have enough skill to operate a twist throttle doesnt make them dangerous and a bad idea for a banshee. I love my twisty

It took me a while to find my gearing but I run a 17/41 on 18 rears and 8" rims. It's perfect plus everyone who is retarded and gears their bikes all down just so they can spin more and top out slower just get ripped to shreds and I have gears left. I have quite a bit of motor work done to mine, my friend had a stock piped banshee and ran a 15/41 and it pulled it. I do a lot of wide open riding though, in the woods my first is pretty long, but I like it.

Ok, it's not too hard. When you pull your clutch cover off and remove the springs etc. and pull the pushrod adjuster out you have a ball on the end and a rod that goes through to the other side basically. The rod that your clutch cable connects to just comes out after removing 1 bolt and the bracket. I'm not sure how bad it is you might need a couple of parts but it won't cost much... Here is a picture There are some more pictures here