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2Smoker

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Everything posted by 2Smoker

  1. This is a common problem. To fix it isn't that hard, but in the future you might want to not ride your clutch. That's what causes it.
  2. Throw some 8" rims and 18" holeshots on it and go 17/41 for your gearing. If your bike has balls it'll pull a 17 and the powerband will last longer and won't hit as hard and you won't be shifting as quick...olny downside is that first gear is really tall.
  3. Dude paint looks nice but if your bike is mechanically sound and works good don't even think about trading. Think about it...a 350 twin vs a 250 single? It's not rocket science there's no replacement for displacement and an extra cylinder NEVER
  4. no no and no thats such a bad idea why don't you like your kickstart? I imagine you would have to make a battery box and mount it somehow, get a 200 watt stator and some sort of charging system. You could do something to your idler gear and put the starter in to turn it but.... Electric start is just a headache! Banshees start good anyways.
  5. I never jumped on the nicosil bandwagon...I had a 99 srx500 sled and it had nicosil cylinders and it blew up and scored the cylinder. If it was cast iron it would of cost me 50-60 bucks to bore it out but I had to get the cylinder replated and it was 400 bucks. Seriously, I may be wrong, but if you score a cylinder and it can be bored out to fix it I would rather have a cast iron sleeve in my cylinder it's way better to get it up and running again. I really don't like nicosil. It costs way too much more to get your cylinder fixed. I would rather be able to bore my cylinders out 20 thou and get new pistons than to get a stock cylinder recoated again. This is from my experience.
  6. The guy I bought my bike off of had reed spacers and a boost bottle already installed. I threw my boost bottle in the garbage one night after fighting with it and threw my stock tube back on. No difference at all. I don't know about the reed spacers, they are supposed to give you a little bottom end, but I highly doubt it. If you want cheap power advance your timing 4 degrees by modifying your stock stator plate, take 30 thou off the stock head and get a port job. Cheap power! Seriously with all the money you could blow on boost bottles and reed spacers etc... you could actually get real power out of your engine.
  7. Hey I'm in slave lake alberta. I am in the process of rebuilding my bike I sent my top end to milligan's cycle works in new brunswick (i'm origianally from nova scotia) it cost me 26 dollars to ship my top end there and 650 bucks to resleeve a cylinder and bore both out and plane my head and a stud kit and piston/gasket kit. PM me or something if you have all of the parts I can put it together, I can rebuild my bottom end no problem it's just the machine work I couldn't do. I am waiting for a crank right now my cases are split. The prices in alberta are fucking crazy I was WAY better off shipping my shit to NB. Milligan is an awesome builder. He redid my top end 2 years ago and it was a bulletproof motor. My connecting rod bent after 2 years of WOT riding. They used to rebuild a lot of rd350s and banshees and sleds. www.milliganscycleworks.com It doesn't take 12 hours no way and with all of the retarded engine builders I talked to in this province I wouldnt trust anyone to put my motor together anyways. Let me know! We have to go riding in the sand in brule/hinton.
  8. Hey thats all good except for the dynojet kit. I just went to my dealer and bought the jets they're like 2.00 each or something. Any local small engine shop or stealership should have the whole kit with all jets, and you just buy the ones you want. Tell them you need 2 280 mains and 2 27.5 pilots for a mikuni 26mm carb for a banshee they should know what you mean. That setup will make your banshee into a whole new bike.
  9. If you can get at it try vice grips. It always works for me, those impact drivers work sometimes, but the one I have you have to hit it and it turns when it gets hit. Things can break that way tho. Just be careful!
  10. You can't go wrong with FMF fatty pipes and powercore 2 silencers. You can get a K&N filter that you modify your stock filter to fit it in, or you can get a pro design adapter plate and filter which is what I would reccomend. Throw a 27.5 pilot in and probably 280 main jets. It will wake your bike up for sure.
  11. Don't give up. Your bike shouldn't start hard. Check your equalizer hose between the carbs that little one that I always forget to put back on when I have my bike apart. I have had gas leaking out the overflow before and my shee didn't start hard or anything it just wasted gas intermittently. Check all of your jets also, I have taken my carbs apart and mixed my pilot jets where you take the bowl off with the jets that go into the intake side of the carb. They are the same thread and can be easily mixed up. Are your plugs wet when it won't start? You can figure this out it's not the end of the world I know how frustrating it is...but it's usually an easy fix.
  12. I have 30 pilots and 340 mains, and the needle clip is lowered one slot from the middle second slot from the long pointed end) My bike has the exact mods as you except my head is planed and my cylinders are ported I have perfect jetting right now. If I were you I would order a 27.5 and 30 pilots, as well as some jets starting at 300-340. You will probably settle with 310's or 320's.
  13. I already have .30 off of mine. It's a fairly cheap mod instead of buying a Cool Head or something but it does help I noticed a difference. I am going to take .30 more off mine when I get my new cylinders ported.
  14. sent u a pm
  15. yeah how much and do you take paypal and ship to canada?
  16. I want those A arms PM me back
  17. I need one. you take paypal?
  18. I have 2 cylinders bored .20 thou over and ported, the right cylinder needs a sleeve, the rear part of the skirt is cracked i can send pics if you want you could throw a sleeve in it and bore them both 40 thou over 50 bucks plus shipping if you're interested
  19. Do you have a website link or a phone number to reach jeff at? Is this place in canada?
  20. Hello... Ok I have a 99 banshee that needs quite a bit of work and I'm not sure what to do and which parts to get. This is what I have done: FMF fatty pipes and pc2 silencers pro design air box mod reed spacers boyeson reeds on stock reed cages stock carbs running 320 main jets needle clip raised 2 slots full drag port on stock cylinders bored out .20 thou with wiseco pistons stock crank stock rod length head is stock but planed .30 thou I rebuilt this bike 2 years ago and I was happy with the engine it worked good and was reliable. I spent a lot of time tuning and tweaking my bike and it has perfect jetting. I always kept the top end fresh but the crank failed on me after a LOT of miles. It always started good and idled good and just plain worked good. I have a bent connecting rod and it cracked and damaged the lower skirt on my right cylinder. The connecting rod blew the needle bearings out on the crank end and went up into my top end and banged my domes a bit but the head is OK. the bike needs new cylinders, pistons, and a crank but I'm not sure what kit to buy. I want to fix my motor properly, and I want it to be something I can drive lots. I have been looking around on websites all day but I have read that stroker cranks and big bore kits require a lot of machining and I just want to be able to buy new cylinders, pistons, and a crank and use my stock head with stock carbs. I am getting a TORS endcap kit for my carbs, unless anyone recomends keihns All my friends are out on their new 450's and I need to get my banshee fixed and put them to shame. help! I
  21. That's sort of cool, but I just can't see that being anywheres near reliable. When it did work though I bet it'd work good
  22. you duners make me sick with your spotless shees!!!!!!!!!!! ARGH I like yellow/black or red/black.
  23. Tthat's the worst part about having any kind of pet - being a human you will always outlive them and see them die. All that matters is he had a good life.
  24. You should warm the chain up first of all, don't test it when it's cold. It should have about 1/4 inches of play about 1/3 the way from the front sprocket towards the rear sprocket. It depends on how much you way and your suspension. Just drive the bike a little stop it and sit on it and test it like that.
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