2Smoker

I have always likes the warrior, all the new bikes have freakin motorcross bike seats on them!!! WTF!

It sounds like a clogged pilot jet to me.

Oh and get it ported too.

Cheap mods are planing the head, boring it out and running wiseco or vito's pistons in it. Maybe a cool head or noss head with smaller domes. You didn't mention you had the air box modified...I would do that first of all. If you want real balls go stroke it!

I am looking at the clymer manual on page 123 "Engine lower end" it has a good picture of that drive shaft and by the looks of it you are going to have to split the motor. I am trying to make sense of the diagram, by the looks of it theres a needle bearing there and a seal after it. Check the shaft and see if there's any play in it. As for your other question about should you do it - I would check how much oil is actually leaking. I mean a little isn't so bad, and you can probably go the rest of the season before winter when you can tear it apart and do a complete bottom end gasket/seal overhaul. But if you are losing alot of oil fix it, because if youre like me you'll go biking all night with your buddies get all drunk and forget to keep filling it with oil I've never done this so I'm not 100% sure, hopefully someone with some better advice will show up

I think you have to split the motor and expose the transmission to replace it...still reading

Sorry dude I looked at your post and didn't know how to change the seal, I'm grabbing my clymer maunal right now to look give me a few mins.

http://www.ebaumsworld.com I like the soundboards!

Washers should work. Use loctite this time

If you want a deep sound take the silencers off for a bit and see how loud that is But really, alot of pipes make the shee sound different, the fattys are right pingy tingy (thats what I have) and other ones change the sound but you'll never have a deep sound out of a banshee. You want your pipes to be tuned and that doesn't nescessarily mean they have to be loud.

Your shee is done up pretty good now. I'd start pimpin' it with billet!

probably a done up tecate-4 or a highly modified 2 stroke for 250 quad from the late 80's. You just can't get that powerband on a 4-poke.

This happened to me before (sort of). I had the clutch apart and put a new shift assembly in, and when I tightened that nut that adjusts the clutch (there's a nut and then a phillips screw in the middle of the nut) I didn't tighten it enough. Anyways it fell off along with a washer and something else, it ended up at the top of the bastet theres a little spot where heavy shit goes. I'd drain the oil, and pull the cover off and see if your plunger is working properly, probably something silly.

That's a must have if you're in the trails. Too bad it's not aluminum but hey for that pice it ain't bad.

Nac's racing sponsors a KFX700 which does pretty good. Check out this link.

Yeah that's what I thought. I just thought aftermarket reeds gave you better throttle response. I am going to jump to a 340 or a 350 and see what it's like. Better to be a little rich than a little lean.

Hey, I finally got my bike put all back together, and the carbeurators are pretty tuned. My mods are: Bored out 20 over stock with wiseco pro lite pistons Head planed 15 thoudandths of an inch Ported and polished intake/exhaust Reed spacers Modified air box with pro design filter Running at sea level elevation in 15-25 celcuis weather. I just got it bored out, ported and head planed. I was running a 260 main and a 27.5 pilot. My pilots are fine the bike will idle no problem its perfect there. I was running really lean with a 260 main, so last night I bought a 280 set of mains and a 320 set of mains. Well I was going to start with the 280s and then move to the 320s if it was still lean (those jets were all the dealer had) but I accidentally installed the 320s and after I realized it it was too late so I said the hell with it i'll try the 320s. Well I took the bike for a run, no bog at all topped out and good throttle response, it really hauled. I went on a straight stretch for a bit wide open, shut the engine off and checked the plugs. They both weren't exactly white, but they weren't a darker tan color either. I don't want my bike running that lean for god's sake anyways... I just rebuilt my whole engine. Now I called a shop I know and was going to get them to tune my carbs up, and told them about jumping to a big main like that and still running a little lean. They told me that it's because I am running stock reeds still and they can't handle that much fuel going to the engine. Now before I spend more money on reeds, how do the stock reeds hold up? Do I need to keep going bigger with my mains or buy new reeds. They told me it doesnt matter how big I make my mains the stock reeds will restrict the fuel and I will have a lean problem until I get better reeds. Is this true? Another question - I have a clymer manual and I'm sure alot of you guys here have one too. If you look at the page where it has all of the pictures of spark plugs and shows the one that says perfect jetting condition - doesn't that look a little white to you? I mean the freakin plug tip is white. And the picture is black and white so it's hard to tell. Does anyone have a good plug guide on the internet that has color photos? Thanks

Just put the chain on and jack the rear end up, start the bike and let it idle in second gear. If you notice anything abnormal about the way the chain is running get a new one. BUT! You have to figure out why a prefectly tight and good working chain came off the sprocket in the first place before you do anything. Its probably the rear bearings, or the swingarm needle bearings, or both. That would make the rear end pitch to the side when you torque on it, throwing the rear end out of alignment and making the rear sprocket crooked, making the chain come off. Fix the bolt that's missing, and figure out where the play is in the rear end.It doesn't take much.

I would just buy a new chain, next time it comes off you could be looking at alot of trouble if it meshes a gear in your transmission. I would change your oil right now, I bet if you look at what comes out you will have very small metal filings in the oil. I did when mine came off ; i was to cheap to buy a new chain and I ended up cracking my engine casing. Shees have a shitload of torque, I wouldn't trust a bent chain on my bike

If putting the valve stem on the inside doesn't give you a wider wheelbase youre running aftermarket rims for sure. Probably ITP deep dish rims or something. Which isnt bad. This is what a stock rim looks like BTS thats NOT my banshee, just a pis I found on a google search. Stock pipes...yucky...

I actually like my parking brake.

I'm not on this forum trying to bullshit you, I went wide open doen a road by a motorcycle and thats how fast i was going according to my friend. The bike has always worked good, and I dont have a tach to see how many rpm im going or a GPS, I just pinned it and seen how fast he was going. I'm not claiming its the best way to see how fast youre going, but it should be somewhat close.

I fixed the problem!!! The shee is working fine again. My pilot jets were both clogged thats why it wouldn't idle I stepped up from a 260 to a 320 and it just HAULS ASS LIKE THERES NO TOMORROW!!!! Crazy -2smoker

I think you're alright, in the Clymer sercive manual it says DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid is fine for the brakes...I have heard here to use DOT4 but I would just bleed all the fluid out of your brake and put new DOT4 in to be on the safe side.

It sounds like you have a rich mixture. Try dropping your mains a bit, maybe a 250-260. Check the plugs and let us know.