racer

RDC! is that matt helton's truck? nevermind its not. good lookin 1450 though.

isnt sweetquads located in canada or something though?

what kinda of rearend do you put under a car like that? i mean do you get a full float 9 from Strange? or do you stick with some jap shit? anyone know?

agreed.

i wish i knew where to get real cheap OEM stuff too.

my thoughts EXACTLY! just looking at a polaris i can shed 20 pounds with my eyes and most of its in hardware. make the bolts the length they need to be, not a 1/4-1/2 inch longer. hollow out swingarm bolts. alum when ever possible. the oil tanks are plastic, make those from alum and they would be .065 wall instead of 1/4", then think about the extra cooling benefits since the metal will tranfer heat better. for being a company for 50 years, there products dont exactly have the look of an experienced fabricator/company.

did someone type something?

I dont agree, I think the above poster had a bad run of bearings. There is no reason not replace bearings just because they were workin earlier. My advice, any shop that can do boring has a mchine shop, and can probably check the tolerances of your crank. Take it to them and ask to have it done, I dont know what they will charge you, but its gotta be cheaper than the worst case scenario.

if youre taking things to the shop have it all lapped. the head shells, the jugs, the domes, anything that has a mating surface need to be flat enough to cut drugs on. no shittin.

last i saw NYUK had a frame for cheap.

base gasket has nothing to do with this scenario. yup, you can warp the jugs. pull them off, and remove all the studs. then take them to a machine shop to have them lapped. if you wanna try it yourself you need a thick piece of glass and a large piece of fine grit sand paper. i think i used 240 last time. place the jugs, head sealing surface down on the sand paper, which is on top of the glass to assure that its <FLAT!>. flat is the key word hear, you are looking for dead true flat. so the thicker the glass, the better. then move the cylinders in a figure 8 motion on the grit. that motion is necesary for it being flat. use a good tapping oil or similar lube on the grit. another thing. when i have trouble getting my head to seal i leave the base studs loose and torque the head. then torque out the base studs.

nope. its the intake charge. on top, well someone already said it.

i work with both frequently and would have never guessed that. possibly because they are both still fuckin heavy. haha.

i agree. id love to try it, but damn thats risky.

a tiny piece of what?

i change top ends faster than i refuel. maybe i should clean those carbs...........

i had a close call somewhat like that. but in this case the guys quad jumped waaay farther than me and his back tire barely scraped my back. scary shit when you think about it.

fuck dude, i dont wanna type the shit out.

ok TYLER heres my half ass attempt. its about the angles. if you hit a 45* angle at 50 MPH your vertical wheel speed is 50 mph. thats why the frontend of a quad is raked, and one big reason a 250r's geometry dominates a banshee's, they have little rake. (BTW rake is the angle o the front frame rails, in this case, to the ground.) if you hit an even steeper hill the shock shaft speeds really start to climb then. the rear of the polaris doesnt have this much rake built in, thats bad in comparison to a swingarm. when a swingarm pivots, from say factory ride height, it moves up, but also backwards. thats just how it works. this rearward motion prolongs the point or impact. not much, but were only talking about miliseconds here. this slowing down reduces shaft speeds, and it a slight gives a rising spring rate, the linkage not included. thats good for smooth progressive travel, the kind you want. thats all i can think of for now.

if you wanna know how to take it really apart look at my post about rebuilding a rear shock, dont remember the exact title.

how do you figure? more surface area (bore) to push more air into the same confined space. i think it goes the other way.

floats are the shit. never ridden a set on a quad, but on a pitbike its the nuts. plus i think someone said one time that they are like 17 pounds lighter than coil-overs, for the pair of course.

i think silver vein is a little played out if you will. i see it on EVERYTHING. the graphite gray would be my choice. i currently have gloss black, but i really like the idea of a dark gray.

unbolt and ship to a professional polisher. haha that thing has some nooks/crannys id never wanna have to deal with.

to the frozen bolts: put some anti-seize on the metal to metal contact parts. use antiseize on your rear pivot hardware also. youll know why when you pull it apart.