MotulMonsta

Shit. Don't be afraid to hang off the ass end. I'm runnin Ims pegs in the stock location and when I need to find more traction, I stick my ass on the rear fender off the damn seat. I get mean holeshots by doing that. You just gotta know the terrain. On pavement, I practically kiss the front fender to keep the nose down.

WD-40

A flathead screwdriver is all I need..that and 5 min of my life. Presto all 4 springs changed and ready to roll. Time fer a beer or two..or three..or Hic..shit ready to ride now!

Get yourself some real shocks!!! Those stockers won't cut the butter! You'll be hating life!

True true..good springs will make the clutch, but the size of the fiber plates of an aftermarket clutch dwarfs the stock fibers. Plus a good aftermarket set will only run ya about 80 bucks..OEM is kinda costly...least the last time I checked. Now the larger size of the aftermarket plates will require heavier springs to keep from slipping due to the greater amount of surface area. But it will last alot longer under hard abuse then the stock plates will...that is a proven fact. Try to dispute it. So it doesn't matter persay what brand you buy, unless it's an OEM copy, it should outperform oem standards. But I think the argument is which brand is the best. And to what standard are we comparing them to? Best in price? Best in performance? or a compromise? How about availibility? Or ease of installation? Hinson has a clutch set out with enlarged fingers to better save the basket from wear and tear..My biggest factors for determining the best basicall boils down to price, availibility and ease of installation. Toomey, Barnet, ebc, hinson, all neck and neck in ease of installation, how about availibility? Barnette is VERY easy to find, Toomey and hinson are a little harder to get ahold of and EBC is easy to get as well, so now we have price. Barnette is cheaper in my area then EBC..and it is more readily available. So in my opnion Barnette is the best clutch kit. It's not too pricey and you can find it anywhere more then not it's even in stock and you can walk out the store the same day with what you need and know it's going to work . Damn..you think I work for Barnette huh?

I never thought of using a smog pump...what psi does one normaly run at? I'm thinkin' 5-15 psi..which so long as the engine doesn't suck up all the air..should provide a little boost...I'd try it on a lawnmower...just ta see if it'll work. Metering will be handled by the carb. Should be simple enough...but how to drive the smog pump..Hmmmm....Modify the flywheel into a pulley, run a belt...Hmmm...TO THe DRAWING BOARD!!!

Just cut the stock boot right where the clamp sits for the stock carbs. Then use a hose clamp and walaa your done.

Ahhh..Tail lights are for sissies!! Take it off!

What are you talkin' about? I assume it's works shock...with or with out rez? without a rez, you shouls get both air and oil to come out of the servicing nipple, with a rez, you should just get air(nitrogen). If anything other then air come out...you got a leak and should get them rebuild.

I've run Barnette for a while, I burn em' up quite a bit but the amout of abuse and the fact that I'm still on the same fibers after 3 years..it's a strong clutch...requires a lot of ajusting though. And the kevlar plates make a mess out of your tranny oil..don't like that too much. I think I'll try streetbike trick on my next clutch.

I never had a real problem like that...interesting fix..might use it.

You got all your chain guides on? I know the stock rear guide won't fit a 520 D.I.D. O-ring chain. Alot of people remove it, but it is integral to keeping the chain on. If anything is cocked, you can see it if you look real hard..look a the ass end and follow the chain up, it should be straight from sprocket to sprocket. Also measure the rear tires from the footpegs..should be even...you might have a tweaked frame..but more then likely your axle is cocked because the crappy yamaha design will do that.

So long as you drain out all the petrolium based oil then use the fuel with synthetic, you'll have no problems. But if you mix the two together, you could gum up your carbs and have a hell of a time cleanin everything out.

Before you burn money on a timing plate, remeber, a Dyna cdi needs the stock advance as a refrence point..so if your planning on getting a dyna cdi, then an adjustible timing plate would be a waste of money....just so ya know...I made that mistake. And the age old addage.."There's no replacement for displacement" still hold true. You'll get more power outta that 404 kit, but you'll have to beef up your entire drivetrain as well, stronger crank, better clutch, stronger chain and sprockets, roundhouse style swingarm..all for that added power. So it's not going to be cheap. Take a bit more time, save your money and design something that YOUR happy with. What's the point of having gobs of power if your always breakin chains and shearing sprockets or burning up your clutch or tweaking your crank? My advice would be to upgrade your chassis, better shocks, roundhouse swingarm..honda style to get rid of the crappy yamaha design. Get that power to the ground.

Um....uh..they should be a tight fit, with the spherical bearing being the only means of movement..aka no slop. Your gonna wear shit out pretty quickly if you got slop in there....by the way..You got a real clean machine in that photo!! I like the color.

I'd go for the reeds. Your kinda wastin' money on a head when you can mill a stock one for a fraction of the cost. I'm runnin a milled head right now and other then looks, I've got no real complaints.

I got a dyna...cheaper then an oem box and...It made a world of diffrence. I run mine on the stock curve. Worth it's weight in gold. Fires right up all the time, spark is real strong. I haven't messed with the curve settings all that much. I like it the way it is right now and don't plan on messin with it too much...well until I pull my motor apart and start lookin for more hidden power.

I just cut mine and they fit perfectly. It's been over 5 years now and it's going strong. Cut it right after where the clamp sits on the carb side....but you got to have reed spacers. That's why I had to cut mine. The boots were too long.

Funny think about blowing oil out your breather hose is that once it starts, you'll never really get it to stop. My shee's been doin it for years now. I've rebuilt the motor, lapped the case mating surfaces, re-routed the vent lines and it still does it. I'm not venting crank pressure. I'm not worried about it anymore. Just check the oil before I ride and in between motos and call it good. But if you are venting crank pressure, a shure sign is oil fouled plugs..especially if it sits for a while. Also where the water pump is, there is a breather hose port. That port sits below the oil level and so the oil if your riding real hard will find it's way through. I tried plugging that hole, but it didn't work for long. I got a few more tricks to try out when I pull my motor apart again.

It's not running. Check the spark and carbs. Happened to me once. I had a dead cylinder after a rebuild. Turned out apeice of dirt was in the main jet. Cleaned it up and BLAMO insto power gain!

Righty tighty, Lefty Loosey

If your getting them for pro-tapers, specify pro-tapers when you order them. It should come with everything you need.

Your kill switch is an open circuit. So lonk as the contacts don't touch, Bike will run. Perhaps you have a break in the wires somewhere or your swich crapped on ya. If your detonating...you'd here it pingin'. By then, it may be 2 late. Any Motorcycle/race/track shop should have some good VP fuel on hand.

I went with a +1 myself. It tracks better at high speeds. I'd like to try a -1 and see if it jumps better. Right now it feels nose heavy.

AVGAS is the only fuel allowed to be run in aircraft. Type Certificate data sheets provide the range of gas that can be used. Granted the only AVGAS your gonna find is 100LL. Still AVGAS is a HIGHLY regulated fuel. It is expensive to make and petrol companies are loosing money plus the demand isn't all that great at small personal airplanes are the only things that have to run it. The worst thing that's gonna happen with AVGAS in the lead bromides are gonna make you sick and lead deposits are gonna accumulate in your cylinders. That's it. It's all about detonation. High octane prevents detonation. Airplanes can adjust the mix in flight because they have to. Air at sea level is ALOT different then the air at 10,000 feet. Airplanes cannot leagely run race fuel. FAA will take the pilot's licence away. Now there are stc's out there to convert the older planse that run 80 to pump gas. But pumpgas is unreliable. AVGAS is consistant from batch to batch. It's all about safety and reliability in the air. Also, Airplane engines are outdated relics with magneto ignition, it has points, like old 1970's yugo or VW bug. It runs at 2300 rpm. Nothing fancy on em' Your 1999 chevy 350 is a more advanced engine.