MotulMonsta

It's your jetting or your spark. How old is the machine? If it's new, then it's most likely not electrical. If it's old, a weak spark will cause hell trying to start a cold motor. Go up a couple of sizes on the jets..main jets and try that. I haven't rejetted since summer and my shee hates the cold. My own damn fault. I don't ride in the winter anyways...too cold. I hate the cold.

Kehin has a needle guide and their should be a number stamped at the top of the needle. If your getting into needle taper then you'get bigger issues. Needles that come with it should be good. Unless they are bent then don't mess with them. 28mm setup. #30 pilot 160 mains and needle on the third clip from the top. Air screw 1-1/4 out. That should give you a good starting point. If it runs better on the choke...your lean..way lean.

Note: ALWAYS CHECK YOUR JETTING!!

Yes, your going to need new cusions. Vortex might make a brand specific style or you could go generic oem, White brothers makes a good set, hinson has their own. But oem is pretty cheap. just check the prices.

If you haven't noticed the srcasm, their is no need for an oil pressue guage. The gas is premix and the grearbox is free flowing ambient air pressure....aka it vents itself and shouldn't have any pressure in it, unless your blowing cylinder pressure in the tranny then you'd notice oil from the overlow line.

You at least want a good set of pipes before you drop money into your intake. Stock reeds are fine for stock. V-force won't be worth a damn with stock carbs and pipes. V-force has 2 sets of reeds per cage, theory is the reeds flex less due to the steeper angle the two sets of reeds are placed. Bue to the decrease in reed travel, life is extended and flow is increased. It works as good as they say and reeds so far have lasted me 3 years. Stock reeds lasted 1 season at best.

The stock carbs are a 26 mikuni deal. A large carb will decrease the low end as the air/fuel/ venturi velocity will be inefficiant at low rpms. Think about what your trying to do. a 35mm carb setup on a stock motor isn't worth the money, but you can easily outflow 28mm pwk's with a 60 over bore, v-force reeds, power pistons, milled head and a port job with a set of t-5's at the end. I wish I would have gotten 30mm's instead of 28's I can't get any more real hp out of my current setup. But I do have a real nice power curve.

Cast pistons have more irregularities like larger pores, voids from the casting process. This equels to a weaker piston that will fail from fatigue when compared to a forged piston. Forging a piston means that a set of dies are pressed together forcing the metal under an extreme pressure to take the shape of the dies. The metal's denisty is higher which results in a longer warm up period but it is stronger. Forged pistons can be made lighter then a cast piston as material can be removed from non critical areas like the skirt and underside of the dome. Cast pistons are prone to cold seizures as the piston will expand faster then the cylinders, but they also have a shorter warm up period. Forged pistons take longer to warm up and the potential for cylinder damage is greater as the skirt slaps around until it is warm. Forged pistons are high performace where engine reliability is paramount. You'll blow up a cast piston long before you'll blow up a forged.

Stay away from cast pistons. Pro-x suck. It seems people from the south swear by them, but people up north swear by wiseco. I swear by Wiseco and I support Vito's. Vito's makes a damn good..but expensive piston.

Another Monk from NJ?? Don't steal my handle!

Holyshit am I outdated!! I'm still a big fan of Kehnin PWK's.

There is such a thing as copyright infringement. Don't sell your homemade copycat arms. Support the aftermarket. They made ATV's into what they are today. Factories pulled out support years ago and are slowly rolling back up on the ball. But the small AMERICAN aftermarket companies made it possible for a 1989 trx 250r to dominate and still kick ass today.

Gearbox? You mean clutch basket? A hinson is the tried and true standard. Barnet makes a damn good kevlar plate kit. What's your budget? Yamaha has it's own line of aftermarket parts now so that's an option as well.

I wouldn't use a generic guide for a complete rebuild. I would suggest becoming familiar with whatever shock your doing. An Axis rebuild is diffrent from a works.

Doesn't matter what you ride..I'll still smoke ya on my banshee...it's that attitude that get's all them non-banshee riders a hair up their ass. Since the majority of riders have lost the mechanical know how, they are forced to buy the newest toys they can afford. I've had my old $1000 junker banshee for over 9 years and still counting...can't say that for anything else in my life.

I thought it was funny. The pansy in the white shirt was a little biatch. Yes the skater was a punk..but I didn't see nobody jumping in to help the poor chump that got whacked. Note to self...DON'T FUCK WITH PEOPLE YOU DON'T KNOW!

I'd stick with the thumb throttle. Have you ever tried hammering through the whoops with a twist throttle? Dirtbikes don't count..the ass end on a bike doesn't get all squirrely like an ATV..especialy when your not perpendicular to the face of the whoops.

I could be an indication of worn reeds. Pressure from the crank case seeps past and blows back into the carbs. Or maybee your riding wheelies too much. I wouldn't worry so much about it. Does it smell like fuel? does it feel like fuel? Could just be oil from your filter.

I nominate myself as the hottest chick on the HQ.

Yeah dude, I wouldn't fuck with it anymore until you tear the bitch apart. Gotx to find out what's wrong

Naa.. I got my money on the honda 250r 1989. Best year.

All these new names..2nd rate work..What about Leager, Roll design, Lonestar?? You know the solid companies with damn good reputation, quality and experiance. I know all three of these companies offer package deals on front end setups. All depends on how much you want to spend and how long your willing to wait. These 3 companies kept the ATV world on it's feet for the last 2 decades or so...O wait 4 companies East cast ATV's own line Gibson is pretty good as well..their powder coating could use a little work though. Then their is Denton racing.

You got 26mm Mikuni's on their now..AKA stock carbs. Your going to bump it up to 35mm? SHIT YEAH your gonna need to change your jetting. My advice would be to buy two of every size mains for your carbs and a few pilots so you can tune the bitch..yeah it'll cost ya more but you'll never worry about not having that jet you need.

Hoses for the banshee are tapered, radiator ends are larger then the motor's water pump and head fittings. So finding a size that will work is going to be a bitch.