MotulMonsta

Yeas Chroming is always a good idea. I should have spent that extra cash and had my T-5's cromed. Now I spend a lot of time fighting corrosion on my pipes...that's a lot of wd-40 that I go through. 60% of the time it takes me to wash is devoted to corrosion control, 80% of that time is spent on my bare metal pipes. My next set will be chromed.

How's your jetting right now? Rich..lean spot on? Run what you got and find out. Then adjust from there.

Toomey says you won't need to rejet with the hush kit

I have a similar setup. When I installed Vito's power pistons, my bike ran rich, I had to jet down. Before I rebuilt, I was running pro-x pistons. run your premix rich at about 16:1, idle the bike with the choke on for a minute, then check the plugs, if they are not dripping wet, you need to run richer for brake in.Then start the bike back up and run it for another minute the same way. alow the bike time to cool. Then put the bike around at idle with the choke on for about five minutes After you run about a gallon of 16:1 at idle and LOW throttle run your regular mix with the choke on then check the plugs. They should read rich.Now run it with the choke off. You can open up the throttle to 1/4 of the way and blip it occasionaly to clean up the plugs. After you run about a 1/2 a tank like this you can run it harder. after you run the other half it's time to jet. Get new plugs as the one in there will be fouled. Your bike will be race ready in a day or two.

The idle adjustment is a little black plastic screw behind the slide asy., it could also be brass screw..depends on the year the carb was made. The air screw is just above the float bowl infront of the slide. Front in my case being the side you can see when the carb is installed andyou peer into the intake side of the carb. The location also changes. Mine the idle adjustments are both on the r/s if your sitting on the quad and the air screw is on the left side. but it is changeable. If the needle is wobbly, most likly the dude lost a part that keeps the needle seated or used the wrong circlip or intalled it incorrectly. I hope it's the latter of the three. Parts are hard to find for aftermarket carbs. Your airscrew might be burried in filth..

Are you running Kehin's? I'm running 160 mains and a 40 pilot. with the needle on the 3rd clip. But I have 2 28mm pwk's. I'd start out a bit richer like 170 then work your way down. My last motor build I was runing 168...but that was before I milled the head and it was pro-x piston. Pro-x sucks. Plus you want it REAL rich when your braking a new motor in. I have 2 of every size jet between the sizes of 130-180. A lot of jets sitting around...but I never worry about not having the right size jet. it's a good feeling.

Time to check your wiring. Pay close attention to each connection. Make shure your key is on(If you have one) and tether switch plugged in(If you have one). Sometimes it's simply somthing overlooked.

It's not how much it will make, but where it makes it at. Toomey is a top end pipe, all the HP gains are up top in the higher rpms. the gnarly's or fatties run a broader power band..but peak HP numbers are lower then toomeys. But they make more low-mid hp. Depends on how you ride and where you ride. I wouldn't recomend gnarlies for wide open desert and fire trails..but then again Toomeys require serious clutch work to keep on the pipes in the woods and tigh trails. Real HP gains are made when you start bumping up the compression. But the higher the compression, the higher the octane rating you'll have to run. So there is drawbacks. You can mill close to 20 thousandths off a stock head and still run pump gas..any more and it will start to knock..meaning you need to run a better gas.

Yes it does make a diffrence. premium 93 octane gas is the minimum you should run. Make shure it's sraight gas, not cut with any additives like ethenol or fuel injector cleaners. The motor will last longer. The cleaning additives mess with the lubrication properties of the oil. The ethenol isn't good eather, it could cause the bike to knock and just behave funny. If you run straight alcohol it's a diffrent story, but then you have to run diffrent carbs, fuel tank and cirtain brand of oil...the ethenol could also cause the oil to seperate while it sits in the gas tank.

Get Boyseen two stage reeds. They are cheap...but work damn good.

I have to laugh at everybody still using the stock chain adjusters.HA HA HA..Man those days were NIGHTMARES. Best money I ever spent was on a round house style swing-arm. Another way to check chain tension is you should have about 1 - 1 1/2 inch chain deflection when you simply pick up on it midway between the front and rear sprocket. I like that method better then mesuring off the sprocket itself, if your sprockets are worn, you'll never get it to read right.

Silicone spray lube huh? I used to use a lot of teflon lube..works great on o-ring chains. But I'll have to try this silicone stuff.

Call up east coast ATV, get a set of used A arms all years will work so long as it's not 87-89..that's when they used J-arms. Pay the man for next day air. Suck up the price your NOT going to find any cheap way out with the time constraints you have.

Send the pro pegs back..they are GARBAGE...the aluminum pegs wear out WAY too fast. I wouldn't bend the shift lever yet as you only started wearing boots...take some time and try to work with what you got. Boots need time to break in. Plus you need to get used to the boots and the wider propeg grip size.

Yep..you need to get the shock revalved and stiffer springs(It's a MUST). If you don't you overheat the shock and cause it to either seize up and bend the shaft or blow out on you. Works make a good shock for only 600 bones. It will last you a long time even under heavy abuse. The fronts are a diffrent story.

I got the same setup in my Banshee, the Anodizing has worn away a bit but no real bad grooves have formed. I had my hinson basket for over 3 years now and I always run Barnette's dirt digger clutch. Hinson wants you to run stock clutch plates. Stock plates SUCK. When you get a clutch kit make shure they have steel pressure plates..I've seen some with aluminum. Also it doesn't really matter if you run kevlar or some other fancy gimmick. Doesn't make that much of a diffrence until you start making MONSTER H.P. Stock plates will hold up for years under mild abuse...but if you start racing you'll find yourself adjusting it more often then you like. If you use the clutch alot like I do, it's worth the extra money for the aftermarket kits. But here is a little secret...the inner clutch hub cost 26 bucks from yamaha..a hinson will set you back close to 200..inner hub will last a LONG time. The basket is what wears out.

How's the tranny oil level? You could be burning Tranny oil. Had that happen, crank seal went bad. Is one plug darker then the other? Get new plugs, pop them in then idle the bike. Check the plugs. If they got bubbles on them, your burning antifreeze. Clean the plugs off then run the bitch balls out in third, pull in the clutch kill the motor and coast to a stop. Check the plugs. They should be a nice golden brown on the isulator. If they are black your running rich. If they are white your running lean. If they have little metal chips, your engine is eating itself alive.

With the barnette kit, run half the springs Barnette springs, the other half OEM. Space them every other one to keep equel pressure on the plate. You can run all 6 heavy duty springs but the lever will be REAL hard to use..even with an ez pull and Hyd clutch kit. Ez pulls will break cables.

The rod should be only one piece, with the ball sitting at the end before the clutch adjuster. The clutch aduster has a long screw that contcts the ball, while the housing that the screw is in rests against the outer clutch pressure plate. The rod itself inturns contacts the cam on the clutch activation lever where the cable connects to. If it's broke in two, thats your problem right there. The stock bashee case will hold close to 3 quarts of oil. I recomend running the oil halfway on the dipstick lines. I also recomend using basic engine 10w-40 wt oil with no additives as they can adhere to the clutch plates reducing friction. Synthetic oils are also advised against as they are formulated with friction reducing additives. Sounds funny, but you don't kneed all that friction reducing mumbo jumbo, it will mess up your clutch plates. 80wt gear oil works good too. Do not run transmission fluid. Your bearings will seize. Cheap havoline 95 cent a quart oil works good.

Motul 800mx it is formulated to reduce the chances of the throttle sticking during wet conditions...says it right on the bottle. Do you lube your throttle cable? If you do, it that gunk traveling down the wire and depositing itself on the carb slides causen them to stick. Clean the carb slide up and it should be good, next replace the throttle cabe and don't lube it. A dry cable stays clean. Motion pro make a teflon lined cable that doesn't require lubing..infact petrolium products ruin teflon's ability to provide a frictionless serface by causing it to swell. In short don't lube teflon lined parts. They will wear out faster.

There is a groove in the flywheel for the key ti fit in. You really can't mess the flywheel up if your carefull. Make shure the key is seated properly. If the nut is not torqued properly it could come loose and cause all kinds of hell. excessive vibration is one sign it's not seated right. the vibration will wear out or crank bearing prematurly. The book calls for a graball or spanner wrench to hold the flywheel steady for torquing. You can stuff a clean rag inbetween the gears from the crank to the clutch or put it in gear and chalk the wheels so it won't move. so long as you get the nut to proper torque any method will work. If your using the gear/wheel chalk method, go slow, if you stuff a rag in the gears, keep an eye tomake shue the gears don't eat too much of the rag. If you use a spanner wrench, make shue the prongs fill the holes and keep it steady, if they're too long it could rub against the stator and cause damage.

A new wiseco hot rod crank With rods..350-550 bucks. A topend rebuild kit from Vito's with everything you need 219 bones. Cheaper kits are availible direct from wiseco but they're not the power piston. complete engine gasket kit from cometic 45-50 bones. Bore and hone of each cylinder 45-60 each depending on place. under a grand for a COMPLETE upper and low end engine rebuild for a top end rebuild just subtract the crank price. This is a high end build not a basic re-ring and hone the cylinder build, you could get a way with just over a hundred for one of those. The key is to do the assembling youself and hire guys only for the machining...unless you got your own macine shop..then your hooked the f*ck up.

An adjustable wrech will work...unless it's the old spanner wrench style, then a hammer and a chisel will work. Tighten it untill it begins to bind( the axle gets harder to move) then tighten the other nut against it being carfull not to move the fist. red locktight will keep them from coming loose for a while. I run the lone star lock nut. It does come loose if you don't clean the threads of all grease and tighen the CRAP out of the pinch bolt. New locknuts need to be broken in, older ones work better, I found out my lonestar works better now then it did when I first got it a few year ago.

Quick note..if you constantly blow out one headlight as opposed to the other, particularly the high beam, you have stator issues. Don't know why but it's common.

I'd get a manual to get the specs to test, the stator can easly be diagnosed wrong if you test it improperly. The wiring harness will take you days. I's a pain in the ass, spend the 100 bucks for a new one to replace your hack job.