MotulMonsta

Pay particular attention to the rig gap and placement. that will make or break your motor. Also use all new hdwr, don't bother trying to re-use the piston retainer rings or bearings. Place a rag abound the base of the case..that rymes so as not to let any harmfull debris enter the bottom end. Use oil generously to lube up everything prior to istallation. coat the cylinders and pistons in it then cycle the motor by hand with the head off to check for binding and smooth motion. Also cheak to make shure te piston height is within specs. Check the ports on he motor for burs, if there are any smooth them out with sandpaper 400 grit or better to keep them from snagging a ring. Chech the cylinders for glazing and a good cross-hattch pattern visible by the intersecting lines which should be even and visible throughout the entire bore.

You can wear shorts..but if you do, hopefully you'll dig burn scars. Bones heal, trophies last forever and chicks dig scars.

The bikeshop I go to only charges me labor if I bring my own parts. 45 bones per cylinder. Any good bussiness should do the same. Porting polishing, milling isn't required nor an oversized head gasket. So long as your bore is any where from .20 to 1.o over stock. Anything larger then yes you'll need to run aftermarket sleeves and or cylinders with the appropriate hdwr like gaskets and pistons. Any reputable bikeshop can do the work.

You know, the fine art of bailing is something you should learn. Tip One, let the quad absorb the majority of the impact. Tip two, let go and try to push yourself to the side. I won't hurt as bad as you think tip three, don't fight, let your helmet do it's job relax and go with the flow tip four, listen, if you hear another rider coming get the f*ck out of the way, don't worry wich way your going, just go. a few tips in the finer art of bailing. It doesn't have to be gracefull, but it's better then hanging on and letting the machine crush you.

that's funny.

Well, if your not crashing, your not trying. It's cool for some to just put around and stay stagnent, never really trying, but me, I gotx to push the limits and see just how much I can handle. When you ride on the edge of your abilities, sooner or later somethings going to give. I makes you a better rider. Nothing worse to me then riding with a bunch of sissies too afraid to take some risks. Like I said. If your not crashing your not trying. I was smokin' the shit out of a bunch of dirt bikers at a local track the otherday. Made me feel good.

check the reeds...sounds like it's them. there should be no gap in them as they should sit flush on the cage. If they're broken...that's the problem.

Pro flow kit allows you to keep the airbox. Toomey you need to remove it.

I like that quote you have. Describes our government exactly. Does your brake lever snag on anything? if your running an aftermarket lever, they have a problem with binding against the footpeg and engine case. Also if the bolts that allow the brake to float are corroded, it will cause brake drag. But if everything it good then you could try a pair if sintered metal pads. Those pads are harder of rotor but they don't wear down as a fast. You shouldn't be burning pads up in only 5 hours. The pison on the brake caliper could be dirty and not retract all the way once prssure is released. check it out it should be clean and slide in with only minimal pressure. Your rotor could be bent. Does it drag when you turn it by hand?

You can't knock it out with a long drift from the otherside?? that's what I do. It takes a while but it has never failed me. There is also a bearing removal tool that resembles an exhaust pipe expander but smaller and it works by the same priciples, you stick it in the bearing, expand it so it grips it good, then use the slide hammer to knock it out. Works great.

well, the only clip is the clip that holds the cable to the case. If that's broke you won't get very good clutch action. If the lever has play, you need to adjust it by the clutch perch adjuster or if it's real bad youneed to spit the side case open and adjust it from the pressure plate on the clutch assy itself. The little tang off the end of the actuator or clutch arm that's on the upper case where the cable attaches should point to the indide egde if the data plate on the motor, where the serial number is 2GU- Yada yada or 3gu depebding on the year. At that position, the clutch is set right.

There is a version of the rz 350 street bike that makes close to 63 hp stock. That was built in the mid 80's.

I was just at the track today and the guy I met was running a Banshee with Paul tuner midrange pipes. He says they are the best midrange on the market. Better then the 2 to 1 for low and mid range power. The bike sounded MEAN! Plus it was a trinity motor on a leager's chasis. That think could move too.

So it fits in the boot tight but doesn't go all the way in? if it fits tight in the intake boot, it's good. the Carb is going to be longer then stock, so it won't sit in there the same way. but if you put the carb in and can wiggle it up and down and there is a gap..aka the carb does not fit tight, then that is no good. Perhaps they make an intake boot for it, perhaps they sent you the wrong carbs. It should fit tight. if it's not tight you have the wrong carbs.

Old E in a paper bag. Next time a sled head give you a dirty look, flag him down like you need help and get some info on his beef. A buddy of mine would ride his sno pro 440 on the sled trails with full pics and tear the trails up, roost over old men on there "Cruiser" sleds. Then He'd get on his dad's groomer and groom the trails half drunk. He was crazy. But his dad owned the property and he made it a point to piss off the yuppie sleeders. It is bullshit that they get trail rights, but if you try to run them in the summer, you get in trouble.

I don't let anybody ride my Shee unless they got somthing of equel or geater value.

You got to buy them. Just about everybody has them.

If it was only that easy to get free parts and labor. I'll thake those valve caps and powerband if there still on the table, My powerband is a little loose, streched it out shooting paper wasps. If your going to build up his bike, I could use a new one?? Just slap some stickers on it and I'll do some product placement!! I'll wear some corprate logos if they're payin the bills.

I just intalled a Dyna on my shee last night and ran it today. Runs GREAT!! I had to buy diffrent spark plugs, Br8es, instead of b8es. The dyna tech guy says that is the plug you should run..no need for the other fancy things. He wasalso telling me to make shure there is no timing advance on the stator and that regular non-resistor type plugs might cause problems...he also said to run stock coil stock and plug caps..resistor type. He also said the blue and brown wires are for rpm operated equipment like fuel injections or other aftermarket sensors. you don't need them connected. I noticed when I installed mine, the bike ran leaner. I was jetted rich to begin with so alls that I had to do was check my plugs to make shure they were a nice golden brown and not white or blistered as in a lean condition. I'm actully impressed with the dyna ignition. My shee's back to the way she used to be, starts up on the first kick and makes more power...plus it's got a higher rev limit, I'm not bullshitting..there IS an actual feelable diffrence.

I'm interested in those power now valves. You could run a larger carb but still maintain a decent bottom end. I'd like to know more about them

V-force all the way. Everything else is 2nd rate crap. It's hard to say that about most products..but not with Moto Tassinari's V-force reeds...Damn I sound like a commercial.

Damn! Remind me not to race you in the dunes.

You got had.

Side tolerance??? are you refering to left to right play of the connecting rod?? Or the crank?? the crank shouldn't have much lateral movement if not any at all, it's a sign that A, the main gear is loose, B, the bearings a worn, or C the groves in the cases are worn. The piston rod will move side to side. The specs should be found in any good Banshee repair manual. If you don't have one, You need to get one, the information inside is invaulable to the upkeep of your shee. I've had my Banshee for close to 8 years and I still find myself thumbing through the pages just to make shure I'm doing things right.

I just did a rebuild with power piston and agree, they are some bad mamba jamba's!! Work great. Use the superstock with unported motors only..that's what Vito himself told me.