dirtbike killer

I love it!!!! I went through the same thing when I had my t6 pipes. A friend of mine had fattys, and a 16 tooth front. He beat me all the time. But at sand mountain with a 13 tooth I would beat him. A mid range pipe is going to pull the taller gear better than a top end pipe, they have a broader power band. When I had my two into one intake, I would kill people on the dirt with my tall gears, and people thought my single carb had a lot of top end. When it was just the midrange, bottom end, and a tall gear.

When I put them on mine, I did the grinding on the lower arm. I think this is a much better way to go, because who cares about the stock arms anyway. Then when you go to after market arms you didnt just butcher your shocks.

You do have to compress them a little to get them in the stock a arms, but they work great in after market a arms. They have good travel, and a little sag. They side right in the after market arms. They are way better than the stock shocks, stock arms or not. I liked them a lot better then the stock shocks, in the stock arms, and even better in the after market arms

I thought I would throw my two cent in. I have ran the yzf 450 shocks on my shee for about a year and a half. I'm pretty sure I was the first to post about them with pics, and stuff. I might be wrong, but I dont think so. I haven't any problems with them, and still love them. The bike still rides and jumps like it did when I first put them on. They a great shock for the money.

I see a lot of people that cant get there bike to idle right, so they turn the idle screw all the way in. If your idle screw is all the way in you will have a bad bog. It needs to be at less one full turn out. If you cant get it to idle, adjust your cable.

You cant have the idle screw all the way in. It has to be at less one full turn out, or the bike will have bad bog when you first jump on it. If its closed all the way your closing off the circuit that works with your pilot. If you cant get it to idle at one full turn out, adjust your cable.

Your main isn't doing much when your trying to kick it over. If its hard to start when its cold, but easy to start when its warmed up, your pilot is to small. If starts easy with no choke when its cold, but is hard to start when its warm, then the pilot is to big. Make sure you have no air leaks before you mess with the jets.

Has it always felt slower than a stock banshee? You said this problem just started to happen, how did it feel before this mishap? What pilot, main jet and needle are you running? Where do have the needle set? What mix ratio do you run? Did you do a psi check, what does is read? How old is this motor, was it about time for it to go, or was this premature? What size carb do you run? I just want to get all this info out in the open. It will make it a lot more easy to help.

185 mains seem way to big for a dual 35mm setup. When I ran dual 33mm carbs, I ran 155 main and a 45 pilot. You would be a little higher because your running 35mm carbs, but it dont think that high.

Twice as easy to get leaks.

Any down sides to have a desert tank? I do 35% mx, 55% trail, and 10% dunes.

NO pipes. I have three sets. Nerf bars, flywheel, Plastics, chrome dressup parts for the motor. after market rear axle, cylinders, domes for noss heads.

I love mine and will never go back to a dual, but it does seem to suck more gas. It might be just cause i'm having more fun with it now.

I have some, but I'm trying to sell them.

After the pipes, get some porting. Its cheaper than pipes and will give you the same or more power depending on what you get. When I got my porting it was like I added pipes again.