MotulMonsta

My bike did the same thing...it would spark, then stop. I had to replace every thing. stator cdi, coil wiring harness. Man what a diffrence that made. When I replaced the coil, it still was fucked, when I replaced the stator, I had intermitten spark that semed to get better after I let it sit for an hour. So I replaced the wiring harness because the old one was a hack job and I wanted to simplify the ignition wiring anyways by eliminating all lighting wires. It worked better after that, but then the bike decided to quit on me while I was practicing. Now it ran fine, but then I went to start it up after I made some jetting changes and it refused. So seeing as the only thing I had not repaced was the cdi, I went ahead and did that. I was used to getting spark every third rotation..and a weak spark at that. now I don't even have to try, it will spark with minimal effort.

About the same 55-58. Posible 60 due to the higher compression ratio of the domes as opposed to stock head. I'm mearly guestamating. You figure about a 10-15 hp gain for pipes alone then add 2 for compression boost..the other stuff is junk. Maybe 1-2 for reeds

They Dyna tech guy told me it's important that you run the stock OEM plug boots. There is a resistor or something inside it that the dyna box needs in order to function properly. Also you might be running lean. does it idle with the choke on? if it does, then your lean. Call the dyna tech line and ask for some help and info. 626-963-1669 I belive the guy's name is Steve.

Get rid of it and just run a vent line down the side of the radiator. Clamp on on the ends of the carb put a lot of stress on the intake boot. If your not carfull, you'll pop a carb out under heavy abuse, particularly MX.

Steel sprockets. I don't run aluminum. Use sunstar or sprocket specialists.

Nothing you can do with the stock carbs is going to clear that bog..it's caused by the engine's thirst for more air. it isn't getting enough. If you roll the throttle slow and smooth, there is no bog, if you pin it there is. It's restriction causing it. Aftermarket pipes and reeds will help to eliminate it along with removal of the snorkel and minor airbox mods.

I'd say around 53-57 as the stock puts out 45-50. Get it on a dyno

Rev limit on the banshee is built into the cdi. You can adv. the timing to trick it, but it's always there and it's a constant effect, it limits the spark the higher the rpms until....it doesn't have enough spark to rev any higher. You won't even come close to the rev limiter unless you run up at 9,000 rpms. It's somthing else causing the bog. Chech your carb slides, maybee one is sticking slightly or out of adjustment. Your compression could be low or your plugs ar fouled. Your reeds might be worn. End gasket??? head gasket? if that's blown out you'll be able to tell, burning coolant, seepage out of the head and POOR performance. Your jets might be clogged. or needles bent.

http://www.1dirracing.com/Banshee.htm Numbers don't lie, but since when does the rad valve outperform V-force? Something isn't right with these benchmarked figures.

Pro lites are more expensive then the standard wiseco piston. I've run wiseco pro lites and stock, OEM, Pro-x and now I have a set of Vito's. I like the Vito's piston...bit expensive but it's the only ones I haven't tried. As for reeds, I don't see how they could get a better flowing reed then V-force to fit inside the stock intake. The dude's numbers just don't add up. I've never heard of G3 reeds. So I don't know a thing about them...but I can attest to the durability of the V-rforce reeds...they are pretty damn strong. mine are over two years old and show no signs of wear. I imagine if they ran a longer reed cage with bigger pedals, but then you'll need bigger spacers to take advantage of them. I can't fit spacers bigger then what I've got in there now without extensive mods to the intake system.

Yeah the nuts on the axle are loose. Or the brake boss is worn where it contacts the axle house. You could get an anti-fade lock nut to enshure that the nuts stay tight. I put sealent on the splines of the axle then installed it to enshure the tightest fit possible. It's a bitch to take apart but it stays tight. The sprocket hub also pay an important role in keeping the rear end tight. If that'ls worn it will slop as well.

Your best bei is to disconnect the Tors like ol' dude said then if you still have ignition issues, test the stator if that checks out good then check your entire wiring harness and all connections. try unplugging the lights to single out just the ignition system. If that turns out good, then check the coil and plug wires. Finaly if everything else is FLAWLESS and in good working order, your CDI is bad. check the wires to make shure none are frayed. There is no test that can be done to determine if the cdi is good or bad. You'll have to pick up a known good one to find out.

If it's poping and banging..it's running lean especially if it's in the Higher rpms when it does this. check your plugs. put a fresh set in then gun it in 3rd gear, pull in the clutch then kill the motor coast to your truck then pop the plugs out. If it's not a nice golden brown on the insulator, it's running lean and your damaging the motor. You could also have the wrong plug in. 87-88 should be a B8es and I belive after that it's a br8es, though a b8es will work, the R stands for resistor and that suppresses any electrical interferance like say you have a radio and you fire your quad up, you can hear the rpms on the radio. If your running b9es switch to b8es and see if that helps. Your needle in the carbs could be bent or your floats out of adjustment. If you bought it used, there is no telling what could be wrong. It might be a combo of a number of things. But a repair manual and start checking EVERYTHING out. leave no stone unturned. The problem(S) will surface.

Bore the bitch. Stroking is too expensive.

My old 87 frame was like that. You can cock the swingarm and not know it. You can't really fix it. Buy a new frame and transfer all the parts over onto it. It will bend right where the swing arm meets the frame, those cheasy gussets that hole the swing arm is what will bend. Unless your constantly throwing chains like I was, it not too serious. New frame from the factory will only set you back around 600-700 bucks.

Did you connect the choke tube that runs between the two carbs? Also in the ballance tube in tight? You know the tube that runs to each intake boot? Maybee the carbs are not seated right?

Watch out with the 12 tooth front sprockets, I won't run them because I keep breaking them. If you have an after market chain slider, you might end up munching sprockets like I have. Seems the angle is wrong and the chain will pop, causing the teeth to crack. A 13 tooth is about the smallest I'd run. I run 13/42 on 20 in rear tires. Tire size plays an importand role as well. If you run 18's your gearing will be way differnt than say 22 in tires.

Pipe temp isn't a true indication of engine temp. Banshee engine runs hot. So long as it runs smooth, isn't breaking up or spitting coolant and doing any other bashee related temper tantrums, it should be fine. Now if your engine loses power after riding for a while and then after it cools off it runs better, it's running too hot. If coolant starts pissing out the radiator overflow and you hear it hissing and spitting, it's running too hot. if the engine stalls and you can't kick it over because it's seized, it running too hot. You can richen the premix and jet settings to cool it off a bit as a lean motor runs hot or invest in a better impeller or radiator to help cool it off. Or get an aftermarket head that hold more coolant. Also if you didn't mix your coolant right, it will run hot.

Your going to have to pull the side case off and have a look at the lever engagement to the shift star. Could be something simple like the cheasy plastic spacer's worn. It doesn't take much to knock it out of alignment. You might need to pull the clutch off to really get a good look. But wait...forgot the obvious. Is your shift lever tight on the shift shaft? Does it have a lot of axial play(can you move it in and out?) If it does, the spacer's worn or broke and it slipped of it's mounting point. Also the adjuster could have gotten bent. You have to take a look, there is a lot in there that could go wrong. But if your gears are gringing your clutch might be worn which would cause all kinds of shift trouble. Does it grab when it goes into gear? Does it slip? Can you disengage it all the way?

I woldn't spend te money on the D-arms, you can get a conversion kit for A-arms or punk up a new frame for a little over 600 bucks from the factory. The D-arms are just as bad a the J-arms during hard abuse. Yes Lonestar puts out GREAT products and the D-arm will last forever, the bearings will not. When I raced my old 87, I had to tighten up the J-arms after each moto. I used red locktight and massive amounts of gorrilla torque. They still came loose. I ended up elongating the mounting holes. But the frame was trashed by then so I converted to an a-arm chassis. Best money I ever spent.

I would't switch the coil wires. The ignition system relies on a specific resistance to work properly. Although switching the wires may increase power, it could as well damage your coil, CDI wich is expensive or burn out your stator. Cheapest mod is to take the snorkel off, then cut a half moon in the back of the lid. You will need to rejet to take advantage of the increased airflow. That is the cheapest mod I know of.

The most you can bore the STOCK sleeve is 100 thousandth of an inch or .10 over stock. Now you can get the cylinder re-sleeved and I belive you can get over 500cc by doing this, I'm not shure but I have seen 500cc banshee sleeve kits on the market before.

You know Non resivour shocks mix the air in with the oil and the damping charecteristics suffer do to this. On shocks with res. has the oil and air seperated by a floating piston. Does Elka offer an option to convert those shocks to res. equipped units? If they do, that would be worth the investment. You can get much more adjustability from res equipped shocks and I feel that they are worth the extra money. You also might want to invest in a steering dampener of some kind..the +2, +1 fwd A-arms will cause the bike to become more twitchy and could get quite squrrely on you if you jump it and ride it hard.

There isn't a serial number or part number? You can measure the intake side of the carb to get the size.

I cut down the air boots...if you cut them from the front..where they attach to the carb, right after the point where the clap sits they will fit perfectly. The rubber is tough as my boots are close to 17 years old and still going strong.