MotulMonsta

Maxima chain wax dries to a nice protective film..but you have to apply it the night prior. Lithium based lubricants work good..like the lithium spray in a can.

Hmmmmmmm...That's a tough one. Motul 800mx. All the way the best oil money can buy. I've tried all there is and settled on Motul. Nothing comes close.

If your not carfull you could split the pipe at the welds or worse nock the whole pipe shape out and really f*ck things up.

You were probly running lean off the bottom and over compensated with main jet size. Carb tuning is a ballance. Try dropping the jet down and turning up the air screw..see if that helps. Also move the needle up some by placing the circlip down a notch.

K&N's work good for sand as the sand won't stick to the filter. Foam is better for everything else. real fine dust will pass through a K&N and enter the motor. Over time it will wear everything out. Don't get a stock filter if price isn't a concern. Pro flow makes a damn good kit that mounts inside your airbox and it won't come apart and seals great. I've never had a problem with my pro flow filter kit. I've had the SAME filter for 3 years now...stock ones lasted me about 6 months. Everything else is 2nd rate compared to the filter in the pro flow kit. I've never seen a more durable filter...it's big too and fills up the whole airbox.

Is that at idle? Or with some rpms on it? Try checking the volts before the regulator to see what it's making. You might have fried a coil on your stator. But I doubt that. It's most likely your regulator

Call up Chapperal and order you some jets. Troy racing has jets...Even east coast atv should have some. Dealers should carry them as well.

Does it run better with the choke on? If it does, it's running lean. That's what it sounds like to me. Did you check your reeds? That could be the problem. They should sit flush against the cage.

Mail it back to toomey and they'll fix it for free. If you try welding a rod and poping it out like on auto body panels..you'll void the warenty.

Dyna's a good product. That'swhat I'm running right now, I'm using the stock curve and it has a higher rev limit then the stock cdi. Fmf makes a cdi too. Don't know much about it though. The dyna will let you retain the lights. And it doesn't require a battery like some of the other types out there. Plus it's cheaper then stock.

Anti-seize compound and red locktight. You should have these on hand. They are invaluable to keeping parts together on a banshee.

They got something like that on post..auto craft shop. Tools are shitty and people keep stealing them..plus It's a pain to do anything due to shop hours and drive time. I much prefer to work on my Shee in my shed. If I take my bike to a shop..it's usualy cause I don't have the time to fix it myself or I can't do the work because it requires machining equipment that I don't have. Plus on post they charge you by the hour and then for storage if you have to keep it there. One benifit is when you change your fluids there, you don't have to dispose of it yourself.

Just hit the local tracks..You'll find somebody to ride with. I usualy end up riding solo cause nobody round here can hang. But at the tracks there is always some competition and some damn good riders.

You only port four stroke heads. 2 stroke heads can't be ported as there is nothing to port on them.

Hint...dealers don't charge shipping......so if you know the prices...sometimes it's cheaper through a dealer.

You can get a whole set of bearings and seals for pretty cheap from Troy racing. You don't need any special tools. but when you put it back together make shure you tap the bearing on the outer race only. Use a socket that's the same size as the bearing to knock it in. Don't forget to put the spacer back in.

THat sounds like a lonestar nut. It's not stock. If it keeps coming loose, back the nut all the way off, clean the threads of all grease, put a little red locktight on it then put the nut back on and tighten the shit out of that nut and pinch bolt. They should have made reverse threads on that axle to keep it tight. But they didn't and everytime you gas it, the slop in the splines will allow the sprocket hup to move fwd a bit..little by little undo the nut.

It could be a number of issues. Clutch adjustment like ol dude above me said or the internal forks and grooves on the cam are worn. Also the dogs on the graes could be worn. My shee has issues going into third. But it's a beat on old 87 motor and everything inside it is worn.

Well you don't NEED beadlocks to race. It just makes tire changes a lot easier and they hold up alot better. They arn't worth the money if your playing in the woods or cruising in th dunes. But if your competing for a championship series and your ranked in the top 10, any little thing you can do to help give you an edge is well worth it.

You can get more travel out of the new fourstrokes with minimal mods. Banshee requires extensive moding to get that done. Also the handling is better on the new 4 strokes. Plus by 2005 all the manufactures are going to stop producing two strokes thanks to all the tree huggin' green peace hippies. So in that case 4 strokes are the way to go. I just don't like the power output of them.

A little leakage is going to happen. Inside the pipe is an o-ring. If that's not there you could damage your exhaust mount from excess vibration. If it isn't pissing and backfiring I wouldn't worry too much. Carbon is always going to blow out there.

East coast ATV might have few. Call up some dealers or look in the back of an ATV mag. Bombadier parts arn't as easily to come by as banshee parts but they are out there. Rotax motors are strong so I don't thing you'll be able to find any used parts. Your going to have to buy new.

Run it and shift as required.

If the fuel on? Is the fuel filter clogged?..does it have a fuel filter(Stock Banshee's don't come equipped with a fuel filter) Most likely you got some dirt in your carbs. If you ran it on reserve, that's where it came from. Just clean out the carbs and it should be fine. No need to adjust stuff if it was running fine before.

Your bike will run better on lead. When I was in italy they sold high octane gas with lead in it. Man my shee ran great over there...Motor lasted for 3 years running lead.