MotulMonsta

The stock carb is 26mm so the 28 should be bigger. Are you saying the carb does NOT fit inside the stock intake boot? Like the boot is too big? I'd return those Mikuni's and get Kehnin 28mm pwk's. Those will fit. Perhaps they sent you the wrong carbs. Do'nt try to just clamp down on it, it should be a snug fit so it won't pop out while you ride.

From my understanding the only diffrence in the banshee to the rz is the fact that the rz has powervalves. If you notice on castings for the bashee, the old rs powervalce actuator mounting points are still there. everything should cross right over. I don't think you can just mount rz jugs on a shee as there isn't any way to get the cables to the powervalve working. Plus I thing pipes won't fit right due to the larger exhaust port. It's been done before. I hear that rz motor is a mean SOB. If you notice on the water pump cover there is a rubber cap and on the breather on the clutch case there is a seal that goes to nothing. I belive that the powervalve runs off a gear from the crank and uses rps to judge when to open.

Those bearings will last forever so long as you keep em clean and greased. I bought my LSR swingarm 4 years ago and have yet to replace the bearings. They are larger then stock you could go through a japanese bearing manufacture and get bearings but 105 isn't bad for the 4 bearings that are in there. Hell all the bearings that LSR uses are damn good! They last forever! I race MX so I don't treat my bearing all that nice. I replace my front hub bearings yearly and I always have spares but my swingarm has been hassle free for years along with my fron end once I got it setup right.

I'd cap them off and zip tie thwem someplace where it won't do any damage. id water gets in the plugs it will kill the motor as the circut is then closed.

Trinity makes one. just thumb through a copy of atv sport or 4whel action mag and you'll see an add in there.

Don't waste your $ on an aftermarkes bearing house for the bashee's swingarm. save up for a roundhouse style. As for an axle...durablues break..lonestars bend..both are garenteed by their manufactures and can be replaced for just shipping charges. I prefer lonestar as a bent axle will get you home but a broke will leave you stranded. You don't need an aftermarket axle arrier to run an aftermarket axle. The stock swingarm will not hold up to racing. plus that cheap ass chain aduster will fail on you and cause you to throw a chain and mess up that nifte 200 dollar bearing house. The best process it to put the ass end of the quad on blocks strip the axle of it's hubs and wheels,the undo the axle nuts...make shure it's all clean then push the axle through..the brake hub and rotor should still be on the axle..but you'll need to remove the rear brake. It's important not to get dirt inside the axle carrier. Ispect the seals and bearings, replace if necisary the repack the carrier with grease...same type that's already in there..the pull the brake hub off slide it on your new axle and run it through the carrier. It's simple and can be done in an hour.

try unplugging the torrs box next to the coil, it's a 3 prong connector. Also the coil is powered by an orange wire and a ground solid black. The kill switch is the black with white stripe. so long as the circut is open it will run. there is a green, yellow blue and red wires..forgot what they are for I belive those are the lighting wires. The blue goes to the voltage regulator, the red and yellow are high/low beams and the green comes grom the stator. I could be wrong. all the safety switches should be an open circut type. so long as those wires don't touch it all should work. It's been a while since I had to deal with any of those wires..I removed them all. The toors works like a kill switch it stays open until eather A: a sensor on the carbs trips it or b: parking brake or throttle switch activate it. Just unplug it. That will eliminate any torrs issues. Then you can concentrate on other issues. The coil itself is cheap and very hard to repair a new one cost like 20 bucks. on the flywheel there is a magnectic pickup and two tangs on the flywheel. clean those up. If your stator is bad it will cause strange ignition issues and a weak spark. there is a test procedure in the factory and clymer manuals. The CDI is a diffrent issues. in order to figure out if it's bad, you have to test everything else ans there is no real test for the cdi. and one will run close to 400 bones. I would recomend buying a new wiring harness for 120 bucks and find electrical scematics and remove the tors wires then install it on the bike. You can test the coil yourself. If both plugs spark..the coil is good. You might have a poor ground. If only one sparks..it's bad. both plugs fire at the same time...regardless of what pistons at TDC. weird but that's how it works. so each plug wil fire at tdc and bdc. Twice per revolution. Also when you pull the harnes apart you'll notice all the switches run off the same circut.

Where in Pen? Is that by Shamoken(Spelling) It's been years since I went riding up there.

It's a banshee thing that damn kickstarter. If water get's in it it will rust and become difficult. If it's only the right you need to check your carbs for dirt/ debris, fload adj..check the reeds.they go bad...and if you fried the rings you'll need a rebuild. Try disconecting the tors..a faulty toors will mess with the ignition and cause weird problems. Also carb syncronization might be out...check it. It could be something simple as a clogged jet. Your fuel lines could be run wrong causing the right to loose fuel.

90 lbs is low. all stock banshee's have a slight hesitation due to the restricive intake and exhaust. A bog could also mean worn reeds. Take a look.

The more extreme the port, the lower the compression is going to be. more air will slip through the exhaust before the piston covers it up. the stock banshee compression ratio is 6:1..pretty low. you can run pump gas up to 12:1 compression ratio before it will start to knock. Least that's what my engine builder buddy tells me. The stock z400 sizuki runs like 11:1 compression. You should be safe so long as you don't decrease your dome size by too much. anything 21cc and up should run pump gas..any lower and it's vp race fuel time. I've heard people usind 18cc on pump gas..don't know if they were bullshitting me or not.

Try it. If it spits and knocks you know you need more octane. My head's milled .010 bored .60 over stock and running vito's power pistons. I run pump gas I hear you can mill off 20-30 thousandths and still run pump gas. I haven't checked the compression yet..but it's pretty damn good seeing as it kicks's over pretty hard and I can't hold the pressure in with my thumb. Remember try to find gas thad doesn't contain any cleaning additives as they will strip the cylinders of their protective oil coating and cause premature wear. It's hard to find good gas now-a-days. Chevron, Bp, and mose generic knock off uses additives.

the front sprocked seal will require case splitting...I belive the seal sits in a groove and if it's not right it will leak and blow out.

140-180 i belive.

Check for spark from the left plug...could be a bad wire. Also your reeds could be worn. Or not installed properly or damaged. check them out. bad reeds will cause it not to run in that cylinder. Reeds are hard to diagnose unless you pull them out and look at them. they should sit flush on the cage with no gaps. Did you bend a needle? pull the airfilter off and have a look...the needles should ride damn near perfectly in the center of the jet tube. if it's off it will throw the mix off. Also there is an air bypass on the carb for the choke...it could be dirty. From what your saying it sounds like the left isn't firing. The coil fires both plugs at the same time so it's a pretty simple ignition system. You could try to clean up the pickups on the stator.

I hear you can go as much a +7 degrees. Mine's at like 2 I belive. But then again if you have an aftermarket cdi they say to keep the timing stock for the cdi will advance it for you depending on what preset ignition curve you use

Are you Duning? those 35's will put out an assload of top end..but due to the lower velocities of air in the venturi part of the carb, you won't make much low end power..you might have idle issues.

I was stuck at the track last weekend because my Banshee threw a hissy fit and decided not to start after she was running SO good. an hour later after I was good and pissed off I decided to try one more time and she started like a champ in the first kick. It pissed me off.

You won't be able to do it yourself. There is a shitload of copperwire wound around each one of those ears on the stator..then it all covered in a plastic coating. Unless you got the parts on hand and the knowhow I would advise agaist it. I was going to rewind my own but I couldn't find the materials nor any info on how to do it right. So I called east coast atv and had a used one shipped next day air... I got lucky to..it came with an adj. timing plate for under 100 bucks.

The 28mm pwk's are good carbs. The larger the carb..the less bottom end power. Large carbs are for large disp. or balls out screaming. they're not cheap. I think I paid close to 180 each carb like 4 years ago. might have gone down..but most likely went up in price. I like the pwk's cause they're easy to jet..just loosen the claps turn the carb over to the side, undo the bowl drain plug and screw the jets out. no need to remove the bowl. If your running anything over 400cc your going to need at least 2 33mm carbs to keep her fed. I'd go with a 35mm single on 350cc two into one as each cylinder will only draw like 175 cc at a time. I'm thinking of tring two 30mm just to see if I get a gain. but then again you'll need larger intake boots.

Wisco hotrod crands run cheaper then stock. Last I checked they were around 400 and the stocker was 800. Wiseco also makes cheaper and better pistons.

I can never find nutral when I need it..but it shure as hell like to show up when I'm racing.

That's where I keep the level but I tried to seal up that front breather as the back should be enough to equlize the pressure. Nope I blew out the seal and pissed oil all over the ground. Now I got a diffrent setup hoplull it will drain back into the motor before it blows out. I'll see. I'm just wondering why that vent is there in the first place. It's got a rubber seal that goes to nothing like somthing should have been there. Nothing in the books about it. I don't know where the pressure came to blow that sealant out.

I bought a brand new wiring harness...went over the electrical diagramns of the quad and removed all the lighting wires..then I csealed the harness back up and installed it. I think the cdi is bad. I got a new one coming. It's the onlything I haven't replaced due to the cost. It's and 87 cdi..so it's old. plus I beat on it and it seems to work.

Send your motor to Trinity. Or LRD. I had mine ported/ polished by a local shop. they did good work. You can do it youself if you had a good dremel and the templates. I'm running Vito's power piston. Milled head Toomey pipes Adv. timing Bored 60 over stock V-force reeds Kehnin 28mm pwk's Oh and Motul 800mx premix. It makes gobs of power, infact I have to put my heavy duty clutch springs back in because the damn clutch slips. I belive you can swap the gears straight over from shee to RZ so that wouldn't be an issue. You don't need a battery..wait the powervalves should be cable actuated from what I remember. It's been years since I've seen an rz. Fmf and Trinity uses exhaust pressure to actuate their powervaves..I belive the RZ uses cables and a gear or somthing of the sort. I would say go for the powervave setup..it's expensive but will increase your overall power. Long rods done right will not affect reliability. You can get a long rod big bore kit to really bump up those ponies. LOng roda are simple as they increase the stroke of the motor with proper crankshaft mods and a larger stroke means more displacement...more displacement means more horsepower. If you do it right you won't have reliability issues. When I rebuilt my motor it lasted for over 3 years..but that was before I was racing. I rebuild it once a year now just to identify problems before they become too big of a problem. Plus I like to experiment with new things and it's fun.