MotulMonsta

Yeah I got a letter from him. I'm Scared

Don't do anything to draw attention to yourself, lay low an wait for them to make a mistake...AKA that leash law...then attack while they are not looking. Getting shit of for things you haven't done is all part of being a teenager. Hell if they are pissy..just give them a reason to be pissy.

Check that frame out. Cannondales bend easily.

You ain't doing much racing now are you?

There is no need to do a leakdown test unless the left piston runs lean due to a bad l/s crank seal and/or the righ runs rich due to a bad crank seal. If your cases arn't mated right, you'll have oil pooling in the crank case and you will vent crank air into the tranny..usualy that is diagnosed my excessive oil run out from the breather vents on the tranny. An improperly done leakdown test can damage the seals on your motor. I would advise against it. Something else is the culprit to your engine troubles.

What do you run? Dunes? Mx? Drag? The 36 will cause you to loose a bit on the bottom..even with a 2 to 1 setup. I'd get a 32 or 34 for the 2 to 1.

I wouldn't flip the rims..your spidles will be put under extra stress and will fail. Every racer I know who has raced a banshee gets a little parinoid about the spindles. That's not something you want to break..when they break it's usualy after you land from a big jump...not pretty. I had a front axle shear off. I got lucky and didn't flip but I shure as hell damn near shit my pants.

I run toomeys. My Shee likes to be ridden hard and wide open. If it ain't on the pipe it isn't making any real power. I race MX and it requires a lot of clutch work to keep her where she makes the most power. I've the same set of pipes for over 4 years now and the only problem I have had with them was a broken stiger hanger and a cracked pipe bracket. Not bad for 4 years of abuse.

Run good oil and keep it between the lines of the dipstick. Don't use ATF, Dextron/Mercon, Don't use any stabilizers..just good ol oil. 10w/40wt petrolium based. the 95 cent a quart oil.

You might be running lean.

I'm just wondering cause I handed 3 dirtbiker's their lunch today when I smoked them in a drag race. My Banshee isn't setup for drag racing..it's an Mx machine. We were practicing starts and I left them all in the dust..not once, not twice but three times before I had to call it quits cause my chain came out of adjustment and started to pop. I beat em off the line..I let them have a head start..I just plain smoked them.

Did you put a new o-ring on the pipes? If it's shooting flames, it's got an airleak in the exhauset...also could mean your dumping a shit load of gas into that cylinder. Repacking won't cause that... Unless you got fiberglass plugging up the pipe.

Heel guards are for pussies. They look ugly, hold mud and add weight.

Try to talk him down. If it's in that bad shape...Talk him down

Thems is some nice pipes yo

The post was never moved.

40 degrees won't make that HUGE of a diffrence on a good running motor.

Beadlocks arn't worth the money unless you race competivly. A pipe is a good investment and a good starting point. Duglas black labels are great for general purpose riding.

Welp, your carbs control the fuel to air ratio. The fuel is metered by the carb through jets in the float bowl, a tapered needle on the slide and the air is metered by the slide. When you put an aftermarket exhaust, or do any mods to the intake track, you increase the airflow..but not the fuel flow. This causes the motor to run leaner meaning that there is less fuel mixed with the air. A lean condition can cause serious engine problems like seized pistons, knocking, predetonation and worn bearings. To compensate for the increased airflow you increase the fuel flow by changing the jets in the carburator to a larger one until the proper air/fuel mixture is met. There are two gets in a basic two stroke carb a main jet and a pilot or slow jet. the slow jet is mainly for idle/mid throttle where the main jet is for mid to full open throttle.

That part of the case is worthless..my case is the same way been like that for the last 8 years..happened when my chain wraped around the sprocket..if it isn't leaking, it doesn't matter. Check for cracks though..have a nice close look.

You got a quad from a company that specializes in piano's

Is the quad still under warenty? If it is take it back to the dealer and have it fixed for free. It should be simple to install the 440 kit seeing as it uses the existing cylinder. The stock cylinder has a nikosil coating on it rendering it unable to be bored are honed. Does this 440 kit have the same coating? Your probly going to have to run a larger cam w/ stiffer springs to take advantage of the new found power. It should be a simple mod as far as engine mods go. No ports to worry about so break in should be easy and fast.

Well, first you mug some guy, make off with their wallet. Have free reighn at an atm machine to pay for your all night bender then use his licence to get into all the clubs and nudie bars...tip the strippers big cause it ain't your money. Disclaimer: I take no responability if someone is dumb enough to even try this..Charges of assault and battery, credit card and identity fraud...that's federal prison time with a guy named tiny who ain't so tiny.

The less oil you run..the more power you make...BUT the lube that motor is getting is what your mixing in that gas...also the oil compresses less the air so the more oil you run the higher compression you'll get. So what's worth more to you? Engine longevity or performance. I used to run 40:1 but after s few years my crank bearings were worn out. Since then I run 32:1. Yamaha recomends a 28:1 ratio. All depends on what you like to do. People run as much as 50:1 but they're doing engine damage in the long run. That little bit of oil you mix in is all the lube that motor is getting remember that. 32:1 is a good ratio has a good ballance of performance and engine life.

Somebody who knows.