MotulMonsta

You didn't get any other contact info?? Take his ass to court.

Congradulations both on your basic graduation and your upcoming marrage. I'm on my way out of the Army. Been real and it's been fun, but it ain't been real fun. Watch yourself, the airforce restricts hazardous hobbies while on active duty, if you get hurt too many times, they won't let you ride. Army's better on this then the airforce...but that's about all. You can do what ever you choose so long as it doesn't affect your work performance. I've had freinds of mine while I was at Aviano AB in italy get in serious trouble when they crashed their street bikes. I'm thinking of going into the Air national guard so as I don't get deployed any more. Deployments suck ass..especially when they last a year.

I'd be willing to spend about 3 grand if I was looking. I mainly check for wear and tear, wiring harness(If it's clean and not modded..good sign), amount of rust in those hard to reach and see areas. Bearing condition.the less slop the more money I'll spend..and motor condition..if it's got a coolhead I'll subtract money...more moded the motor, the less I'l pay...unless it was done good...then I'd take the mods into consideration...but that also means the machine was beat on and ridden hard. Clean the rust off those pipes and polish it up a bit..you could get more cash.

400 bucks ain't going to get you a whole lot. Save it up and do some general maintainence. Nothing worse then blowing 400 bones on a few parts to find out you need to burn a 1000 to fix the other parts around it in order to get those previously bought parts to work right. I wouldn't port the motor until your ready to rebuild. A set of aftermarket reeds won't let you down, but new bushings, bearings, chain and sprockets will be a much better investment. Fix the problems that are bugging you first.

Don't waste your money. The aluminum pegs won't hold up.

They stopped in 89 I belive. Yes the J-arm frames clear the pipes alot better..but A-arm reliability more then makes up for that.

You used adobe photoshop and super imposed her onto it.

Are they long travel? If they are you might not get them to fit. Don't bother trying to dial the shocks in. They are going to feel bouncy and stiff until you get your A-arms on. Me, I'd run them just to make shure they work..but then you have to be careful, I belive Elka offers a program to have your socks dialed in for free for the first 60 days or so. Just mail them back with your setting changes. I know custom axis will do this.

170 bucks is a fair price for a new set of alloy nerf bars. Don't waste your money on pro pegs. Try to stay away from AC. Their products are weak and break easily. DG makes a damn good set. Opt for aluminum, don't buy steel nerfbars. Steel bars will rust out are heavy and just look ugly.

A 22 in tire is a bit big for general purpose. Any good 20 inch tire will serve your needs well. Turf Tamers are great tires, but they are 2 ply and puncture easily compared to a basic 4 ply holeshot. 6 ply is good choice but it is heavy. Holeshots load up in thick mud. I ran a set of realtors. They are good tires, a bit heavy. They flex alot and not good on hard packed dirt. Good for loose gravel or Coal hills in Penn. They work good in mud too. They just don't make traction anywhere else. I prefer a flat profile tire as they corner better. Kenda Claw, Maxis Razors, Itp holeshots are alll great general purpose riding tires. Itp will pay you money if you win running their tires in a race.

That's italian...can't read Italian. I can only read english. It's probebly based on metric so the temp is probebly Celcius

If it's a stock throttle cable it won't hurt it untill dirts starts to get in there. The Teflon lined cables are the ones you can't lube. Teflon will keep the cable from rusting together and also reduce friction so it doesn't need any lubrication. Don't clean Teflon cables with any harsh petrolium based cleaners. Oh and the clutch cable has an exit for the lube to run out from..the throttle cable doesn't..well it does, but that's right on top if your slides wich causes the above mentioned conditions.

If the bike runs better with the choke on, it's too lean. So when you first start it, check that out. Don't gun it, let it idle and check the plugs. This will help alot for getting a good baseline to start with.

It isn't worth the money or the headace. Your talking about a whole new can of worms if you want to shave the crank down to try to better ballance the motor.

A stock banshee motor dyno's at about 43.5 hp. Here's Toomey's dyno results. Stock banshee w/ their pipe and jet kit

53-57 close 60 on a good day.

Start off at 170 then work up or down as needed.

+10 but it won't idle worth a shit. +4 is the norm. Any higher you start loosing too much power on the low end.

Hmmm...Welp the FMF 400cc powrvalve cylinder kit is a good start. Followed by a full leager's, Roll design or Lonestar outlaw chasis. Then get a set of long travel Custom axis shocks or Elka's. Then Top it off with a set of Tommey T-6. Beadlocked rims on holeshots 20x10x5 18x8x9's. That's a good start. Cost about 10 grand for everything.

Well, your limited on metal options. It has to be ferros metal. Aluminum or titanuim isn't ferros. So that leaves you with a steel allow of some kind. Perhaps milling a titanium hub with a steel facing rivited together?

Yamabond looks like chewed up plastic when it wears off. If you recently had your cases apart and put too much yamabond on...it will look like plastic pebbles. Metal particles are normal...if it's a lot or big chunks..then you have a problem You can check your clutch cusions by grabbing the basket and wiggling it from side to side. a little movement is fine, a lot is bad. The stock clutch has cusions on it. If it didn't their would be a bout a 1/2 slop in the basket. The clutch is COMPLETLY servicable. There is nothing in that whole motor that can't be taken apart by the user. Well the inner crank bearings will require a press and all kinds of tools to test runout and deflection. The gears inside the tranny are tuff. I had a clutch basket blow up on me and seize the motor. No real damage, I had to pull the side case off and smooth out some nicks and scratches..all minor. That was years ago like 6 or 7 years ago. Still running strong. I wouldn't use ATF..especially if your mixing oil with it..BAD combo. No good for your bearings or clutch. Run basic 10w40 motor oil..any generic brand is good so long as it's petrolium based and has no friction reducing additives. 80wt gear oil works good too from what I've been hearing.

fine cracks develop on the intake boot, also if you didn't clean off all the old gasket material and put a brand new gasket...takes two, one for the reed cage and one for the boot..your gonna have issues. I'm shure it's somthing simple seeing as you didn't tear anything major apart. Leakdown test could actully pop your crank seals and gaskets out. be carefull if you do it.

Elka kit for a stock rear shock? It won't be half as good as a full aftermarket unit.

I just bough a complete set of Hiper wheels for around 720 direct from Hiper. They should have been here by now. They are alot cheaper then douglas shamrocks and ITP's T-9. That's all that I needed to hear and I was sold. The fronts come in a 3-1 offset so if your running +3 A-arms it will put you over the 50 in witdh limit for ATV's racing under AMA rules for MX.

Pro pegs suck..the Aluminum foot pegs wear away WAY too fast. You can't sharpen them as they will loose their edge after one lap on a mx track. Foot pegs should be made of steel prefrebly Chro-moly. Steel pegs will hold an edge and can be sharpend with a rasp or hand file. All of AC's products suck. I don't like them. I lost a damn good 120 dollar brake rotor because of their shitty skid plates. Bumpers are trash. And their nerf bars suck. DG makes damn good nerfbars.