MotulMonsta

I'd get new carbs, the stock ones suck. Graydon proline sells carbs. Look in the back of an atv mag, call up a dealer..get kehin's & Mikuni's phone numbers and order direct.

What I would do..I had the same happen to me..is check both plugs for spark..then I'd put my thumb over the plug hole and guestamate compression. After that I'd clean the carbs and pull EVERYTHING inside there apart..dirt will hide in the damnest places. Then while the carbs are out I'd check the reeds. Then I'd reinstall the carbs, check the sync and action of the carbs. after that i'd try to run it again. If the problem still persists I'd disconnect the torrs completly check again. If still the same and it's always the same cylinder I'd double check the float adjustment and fuel flow..if that come out good then I'd replace the coil..if still no luck I would double check everything again, paying close attention to the plugs..are they rich, lean...what's going on inside that motor. Hopefully the problem will surface before a costly tear down of the whole motor and electrical system that will pursue. When I had this problem...turned out a TINY speck if dirt lodged itself inside the needle jet and wreaked havoc on fuel flow. Do you have a fuel filter?

Ok Check it out. In order to get more torque from a lever, you have to move the pivot point, if you move the point close to the load, it requires less force to move, but more distance to move it, while the load will move less in distance. An EZ pull clutch simply changes the lever ratio by moving the cable closer to the pivit point. Thus by doing that you decrease the distance the cable itself moves hence it feels lighter. EVERY EZ pull on the market takes advantage of that principal. The problem comes when the cable is forced to run at an extreme angle causing it to wear or chaffe against the lever itself...after time the cable will fail. Good EZ pull clutch levers allow the point of entry for the cable to pivot to decreae the angle that the cable is at. But it still wears out. With an EZ pull you don't get the full motion of the clutch and it becomes grabby after a while. Your clutch lever looks like the cheasy PEP one with a nice On the fly adjuster..oh and it's got some cool metal work on the grip of the lever.

Yeah you can swap the plug wires. The coil fires both plugs at once so this won't hurt anything. Sounds like you got a jet that's clogged up a bit. Got gunk in the float bowl or, just ran out of fuel in the one carb. Did you change your fuel lines?

Or just dump the res. all together. You don't need it.

I have to say the dyna is a damn good product. I just installed one last week. I check the jetting BEFORE I did any full throttle testing to make shure I wasn't running lean. The dyna will cause the motor to run a lot better and might require a jet change. Lucky for me it wasn't neccisary as I like to run a little on the rich side. I did notice a power increase and my plugs stay a lot cleaner. I have yet to try any of the curve settings other then stock. I want to get my timing checked first. But the stock curve on the dyna has a higher rev limit and makes more power then the stock cdi can ever hope to.

Your running a 404 kit on stock 26's????? Get yourself a set of 30 or 32's carbs and let it breath!!

Lesson learned. ALWAYS check your jetting at idle and ALWAYS run rich and work down. NEVER run an engine at full throttle until you first determine at idle how it's behaving. This problem could have been avoided.

I say do it yourself. If you are willing to accept the risk..Have at it. That's how you learn. Pro engine builders wern't born, they were made. Trial and error practice and patience. One day they will die and who's going to replace them?

Looks like every other ez pull on the market. You don't get the full engagement legth with an ez pull system. plus it's hard on the cables.

I like the under jersey kind, the soft roost deflectors. the hard plastic kind impeded my motion a little bit. But it is a safty device and so will provide a greater degree of protection. BUT if you read the labes on them, they say they are not meant to provide protection in a crash, merly to deflect rocks and roost. Have you ever had a huge rock slam into your chest? it stings a bit.

well, shit happens. To me, it sounds more like an exhaust problem like a leak or blown out packing. If the carbs are out of syn, you'll get hesitation, rough idle and if it's bad enough one cylinder will run stronger then the other at idle. Also if you got dirt in the jets, you'll have poor performance from the affected side. A clogged up jet is very noticable. But you said the bike runs great other then crackling and popping that comes from the left side more so then the right. It idles fine, runs fine and both plugs read the same. It's an exhaust issue then. I bet money on the packing..or a loose connection between the silencer and the exhaust tube.

I usualy won't run gas that's been sitting for a week. Fresh gas is the best gas. Did you stir up the gas before you ride? Shake it up a bit? Oil will seperate from the gas, plus if there is water it will settle to the bottom. So you will have a nice layer of water, then oil with gas sitting on top. you need to shake it up, mix it good. You can drain some gas into a clear glass bottle, let it sit for a half hour and look to see if there is water or other contaminents in it. Water will pool at the bottom in little droplets, the more the water, the bigger the droplets.

your carb sync could be out. If it's just a little off idle I wouldn't worry too much about it. You could also have worn reeds and a clooged exhaust..maybe one piston has higher compression then the other. I bet it's carb sync, they have to be perfect and set up exactly alike or it will run a little funny.

Well, you can go as long as you like, the bike will continue to become louder and louder as the packing wears out. Unless your racing for points in a championship you can go a bit longer then 20 hours. I replace mine yearly and with any major overhauls.

I'm running a complete TM system, slider, rollers, guides. I haven't had to replace a roller in 3 years. Haven't had a problem with it at all. well except at first, I had to shave down the swing arm slider because it was pinching the chain against the roller. After that it was all butter. In fact I really don't worry about what's going on with my rollers because I know they will hold up. Also TM won't even bother to try to sell you a new roller because they say it's good forever and will replace it if it fails.

I love it. It takes some time to setup right but once it's there, you'll never want to turn back. It never fades, self adjusts and just works like a champ. It has an easier pull then stock plust it's also adjustable, you can set up where you want to have the clutch engage from. The kit isn't complete but with a few washers and a small piece of drain hose you can get it to work right. I recomend getting steel braided lines...the plastic line made contact with my exhaust and ruptured. The clutch is smoothe always predictable and reliable. I was breaking clutch cables at least once a week when I was using an ez pull clutch setup. Pain in the ass. So I bought the mangura and said WTF, I'll try it, It's got to be better then breaking cables every friggin weeek. It was.

Honestly I can't hear the air being sucked into the motor over the noise if the exhaust.

E-mail me any reasonable offers on used banshee motors anybody may be willing to part with. Does not have to be complete. Cases must be in good working order along with transmission. [email protected]

How much for the Motor?

The best chain I've found id the D.I.D X-ring gold 520 chain. Match that with sunstar or sprocket specialist STEEL sprockets and you will have a good setup that will last. I order 110 links and cut the rest and save them if i ever need them. So far I haven't and I have a few old chains lying around that are still good. Get extra master links. TM design works make a great chain guide system for the banshee..worth twice it's weight in gold. I recoment you replace the stock swing arm chain slider with the TM one. 13 won't interfere with the chain slider as banshee's used to come stock with a 13/41 gear ratio. I recomend a 13/42 for 22 inch tires.

If your going to cut them, srap that support arm, you won't need it.

It's more around 40-45 stock with 33 ft lbs of tq.

You may be fine for a while without a fuel filter, but lets say you switch to reserve, now all that garbage that pooled in the bottom of your tank after all those years is now traveling down into your carbs and motor. Every time I had carb issues was when I used reserve. So I got a fuel filter and I have yet to suck any dirt. It's a good investment and can save wquite a few headaches.

depends on the year, the 87-89's are rebuildable while the later models are not. I might be backwards..but there is a diffrence between the years on the fuel switch