MotulMonsta

How's that MSD ignition treating you?

Man I was about to say!! Shit. Thought I was missing out for a minute. There's a good irish pub down the road from me I think I'll hit up.

You won't do any damage when you run it without the silencers..but if you run it without the whole pipe, you'll fry your motor. I did this with an old 50cc honda scooter me and my buddies called "Scoot". It lasted like an hour. But then again I used eather like nitous on the thing all the time. It would do a cool 45mph on eather. But Scooter's don't jump well and the handle bars have a tendency to bent till they touch the seat.

So long as it doesn't enter the airbox, you should be fine. If you do frequent water crossings, make shure all your electrical connections are good. Also after time, the water will seep past your seals..particularly your bearing carrier and wheel hubs. But the worst it will do is corrode the bearings...we are talkin' years here so it's just somthing to keep an eye on.

Direct from Hiper. 1-877-go-hiper.

There are diffrent bushings back there, the swing arm link has a few bushings made of steel that require a press to get out.

I had the same issues with my banshee, turned out to be the cdi that was faulty.

Yep, if it runs better with the choke on...it's lean.

It's the shoty stock carbs. They have to be in sync and ajusted exactly alike. Also, Banhee's choke is off of one carb, not two, that's why you need that crossover tube betwwen the carbs. That's also why one side will run richer then the other. The carb with the choke will have a tendency to draw fuel though the choke tube when it's not supposed to.

I've been thinking of doing the same thing

Splines will corrode together causing the hub to stick.

Your piston caliper hasn't gone in all the way. It will conform after a while, but it will wear the pads and/or the brake rotor prematurly. More then likely, the exposed part of the caliperpiston is caked with dirt and corrosion. clean it up and push it in...sometimes I use a big c-clamp. after it sits flush with the housing try installing the new pads and see if it fits better. I once grinded a set of brake pads to fit before I thought of cleaning up the caliper..stupid me.

Yeah it's normal. I've been trying for a while now to keep oil from coming out. But I have yet to put some jb weld in it. If it just dumps out you might be leaking pressure from the crank indicating a bad seal. If it just drips from time to time, that's normal as the breather port itself is below the oil level in the engine. What I did was run a smaller diameter hose up and around the engine and connect with a 3 point t-connector to the aft vent in the tranny then ran the vent line up and around the airbox and down the backside of the motor. Keeps most of the oil in the motor that way.

Polishing is usualy done after a port to clean up all the burrs and smooth out the edges.

The rear shocks are rebuildable, the fronts are not

I just happen to have a pro-x and wiseco piston sitting right here next to my comp (My engine blowup trophies) Anyways, the pro-x are stamped with a s/n..wiseco has no marks but an arrow an a letter that's worn too far to make out what it is.

Ok. Look at the piston's ports..are they hard edged or rounded? Next look on the underside, can you see casting marks? like a line running down the center? Cast pistons like the stock and pro-x will have rounded ports and be a bit thicker in the skirt. Wiseco pistons will have a thinner skirt and hard edged ports..plus the W is a dead give away. You also are going to have to mesure the bore to see if they are oversized pistons.

I wouldn't swap the leads going into the coil, could damnage your cdi in the long run. But you can swap the plug wires between plugs as the coil fires both plugs at the same time.

There is a company out in california...L.A. Sleeve I think is the name..Anyways they might have what your looking for.

How much you want?

I wanted to do the same with my toomeys, but I couldn't find a good hi-temp color that held it's gloss, so I'll stick with the burned on wd-40 look.

I'd like to see that new corvette shock technology with the magnatized metal in the oil that changes the dampening on the fly.

To check the jetting at idle is simply as stated. start your bike and let it idle. if it runs better with the choke on, it's running lean. Pull the plugs out, they should have fuel and oil on them, if they don't it's running lean. Then after you check it you break the motor in. after you break the motor in you check the plugs again then jet.

A Hand grenade..no, you can just unplug it. There is a little black box underneath the gas tank and there is a plug for each housing on the carb. Just unplug it for now.

I don't know what happened to the torrs thread, but if your carbs are sticking, try running a diffrent oil that's specificaly designed to keeep the slides free in bad weather....aka like Motul's 800 factory line. Also you gotx ta clean your slides up, all that gunk runs down your cables and deposits itself on your slides.