tacoking

Last season I ran 2 100watt Soltek Fuegos with the electrosports 250watt dual output stator. They provide much more usable light than those crummy billet mr16 lights. I highly recommend them. This season I will be running twin Fuego hids as soon as I finish my engine overhaul. This time I will be running a rewound single output ricky stator.

Quick question. I am looking to upgrade my tires to the Kenda Klaws 20x11-9. Any problems running these tires on the stock rims?

Hey my frieind has a pair of brand new ITP XTC tires but who ever had before him broke the bead when trying to install them. He said I could have them but since the bead is broken it will no longer hold air and I will need to use a tube. My questions are since the bead is broken is the tire unsafe and also the only tube I hae found has a straight TR-6 valve, but the stock rear wheel has the vavle coming out at a angle and not straight out the center of the wheel. Will this tube work with the vavle angled or do I need a tube with angled valve?

If you are going to run hid you will need an aftermarket stator. Older generation hid lights like what Hella uses are good but you have to find room to mount the ballast, cap or batterypack, reg/rectifier which are pretty big. The company I work for sells the newer generation hid technology which is about 1/3 the size of the older stuff. Hid lights are the way to go but you need to set them up correctly. You are looking at about 200-250watts of light from each bulb and it only pulls 55watts or draw. Here is a pick of a set of our 8" race lights.

One set of lights would come on when the low beams were on, then when you switched to high the others would come on but not all four at once. The switch is not set up to run all four lights at once if thats what you are asking. The stock stator could not four lights either. You can only run 35watt bulbs and nothing more on the stock stator. If you are looking for more light you will need another stator. I would recommend the high output Electrex stator www.electrexusa.com. For a cheap setup I would get the trailtech torch lights and swap the the 35watt mr16 bulbs to a 75 or 100watts.

So I through in the 280 mains and adjusted the air screw about 1.5 out and it runs like a camp. At least on the road. I am going to Ocotillo this week end so we will see how it does up blow sand.

I know I put them back together correctly. There isn't much to screw up on unless the slides can go in backwards but I don't think the tops of the carbs would screw in. Correct me if I am wrong. I just put the 280s in and adjusted the air screw, so I will see how it does. I had major issues starting it so I pulled off the plugs and they are very dark. Replaced them with new ones and it started up right away. They must have been fouled. My girlfriend rode my biike last and was luggin it in 3rd most of the time. Let me know if there is anything else I can check.

I just installed a proflow filter on my banshee and it runs like crap. I have the following mods done. Fattys, cool head with 21cc domes, and the intake. I was running the pipes with the lid on, no snorkel, and stock stock filter with FMFs jetting 30pilot 260mains at about 500' 65-90degees and it ran great. I installed the new filter with no lid and 290 mains and it's boggint real bad. I rode it Pismo and it would barley get in the power band and could not run around at 1/4-1/2 throttle on any sort of incline. It had to be wide open or nothing, but wide open didn't feel strong. I am thinking its jetted way to rich so what should I got to? Maybe a 280. It seems like everybody is running 300 or bigger so why would it be to rich with a 280? Thanks for any help

I just installed a proflow kit on my bike and have removed the lid. The only other mods I have are a cool head with 21cc domes. I am riding at about sea level to maybe 500' max elevation change with 70-80degree weather. I was running fmfs jetting 30pilot 260main needle in 3rd pos, with the lid on, snorkle removed and a uni filter and the bike ran perfect. I adjusted the jetting to a 290main and went riding at Pismo. The bike ran like crap. It had no low end power and would only get on the pipe on flat terrain where i could keep the my speed up. If I tried going slow at all up any sort of hill it would either cut out or creep up it at a crawl. I am pretty sure it's way to rich and have ordered 280 mains and will probably move the needle down a couple notches. Does that sound about right? Any info is appreciated.

yeah if you are looking for the Hid style bulbs ricky stator sells a Zenon H6 stock replacement bulb . It will give you that white/blue light you are looking for. Go to rickystator.com

I went with fmfs jetting on my shee with fatties and it was right on. 30pilot, 260main with air box on at about sea level nothing else really done to the bike. I just add a proflow kit with a foam filter/no air box lid and went up to 290 mains thinking that would wourk but its way to rich. I rode it a Pismo the other week and could not even get it into 4th gear going up any sort of incline because it would not get on the pipe, but on flat terrain it was better. I pulled the plug and it was very wet so I am thinking I need to drop down to maybe a 270 possibly a 280 and maybe going back to the stock pilot jet.

Cool I went with the majority and got the Elkas with some Procomp arms from alba. They got a killer deal going right now for arms, elka shocks and brake lines for $850.

I am in the market for some new shocks for my new 2+ arms. I don't want to spend a billion dollars on shocks so I will probably go with either the Works Steeler or Elks sport shocks. As far as performance goes who makes a better shock? A basic set Elkas with out resivors runs about $515. I can get a set of Steelers with resivors for around the same price. Are the Elkas that much better or is it just the name you are paying for. It would seem that for desert riding I would want resivors to prevent fade that most emulsion shocks are prone to. I guess my main questions is does anyone know if a basic Elka emulsion shock would preform as well or better than a Steeler with or without a resivor? Does anyone know the major differences between the two shocks? Any imput would be appreciated.

If you want some good lights this is what you need. We sell them in halogen or hid, single or dual lights. They are race proven and have numerous Baja wins. We are also coming out with a 4" setup that is similar to these but will be more affordable. You can check our site at Bajadesigns go to the atv store. You can email is you have any questions about our products at mike@bajadesigns.com

Yeah I will probably go with the steelers. I don't ride enough to justify spending the cash for Elkas, Axis or Ohllins. If I went that route I would pretty much have to spend even more for some decent arms. I can get the dual rate steelers with resies for about $360. Has anyone revalved their rear shock with the RaceTech gold valve kit? I hope to balance out the front and rear so the both work together more efficiently. Would any one recommend doing the rear revalving or am I ok with just dialing in the stock one.