No Limit Powersports

You can, as soon as i get you into a banshee lmao... Ole purple might be for sale sooner or later!

You know the M&M crew will be out in full force!!

Ive had some of them get stuck myself usually just stick the bearing seperator on it and pull it off.

We have run both for many years and really have no complaints of either. Weisco cranks were recently redesigned and everything looks good so far. But keep in mind the key to a crank lasting is a good true and weld job and good bearings.

Take the rest of it off as well. To do a complete removal you can cut the wire going to parking brake, the throttle, unplug and remove the tors box(under the front left of the tank) and get a tors removal kit, this will give you new carb tops to get rid of the junk on top of the oem carbs, and puts new idle screws in the sides of the carbs cause the oem idles off of the junk boxes on top of the carbs. Tors Removal Kit

Ok guys this needs to go. No carbs $3300

Porting is a great way to increase the power on the cub they are great right out of the box but you would be surprised at what we can do. Shearers are going to pull longer on top than the cpi's as well. With are combination of shearers and porting they pull forever on top. M&M ATV

Use a impact and put your hand on the socket and hold it as you impact it and it wont spin.

Just do what the motor asks you to do. As with any mods do a plug check and see where you are.

We have found the more torquey motors like the rippers better. But keep in mind that ro plays a big roll in how a tire will bite. You will find that a 72" tire with 13 paddles will hook about the same as one with 15 - 16 paddles there just starts to get to much flotation on the tire and the blades are not scooping any sand. But the same 15-16 blades on a 80"+ tire will have more "effective" scoops per axle rotation. IMHO i think that motor will pull a 14 paddle ripper in around a 78-80 if the chassis is there to support it and a bar might be a handful without a bar lol!

Give us a call M&M ATV 8773011700

Ok guys last day and then im going to have to take it down.

You have to replace the entire gear. I usually carry them but im out of them right now. Give Jeff @ Fast a call he might still have some..

What all did you do when you rebuilt it?

Running hot on one side means its lean most likely. Either from a clogged jet, or a air leak(most likely). Need to do a leakdown and find the leak.

If the idler gear has very much play it will bind up with the kicker gear when it trys to engage. Causing the c-clip to break off and go into the clutches and tranny. I always replace them if they have very much play in them.

I would like to see a dyno sheet where the rockets are so broad never really seen any dyno testing done on them. Also what was the port timings on the motor you ran shearers on? Pipes are built around the motor so every motor will like a different pipe and shearers small bore inframes are built around a motor that had 197* exhaust and 130* of transfer. I can assure that only doing intake work and nothing else is not going to gain you anything, possible even loose power cause if you open them to much your going to lose velocity. Raising your exhaust 1mm (assuming this is a 68x58 cub with a 115 rod and 573 pistons) will put you 201.5 on the exhaust thats really really tall exhaust and that motor will need a revy pipe to make power (like the shearer) or something custom built. Your cub out of the box is 197* 130* which are really good numbers for what your doing. Dont get me wrong i clean up everything i build, and there is alot of power still left on the table but its not in the intakes. That doesnt mean i dont do intake work on my cubs bc i do but thats not where you are going to make the power at on a cub.

2 days left guys better hurry while its cheap!

Did you only do intake work? If so you prolly will see little to no improvement over stock.

Considering the threads are jacked on the flywheen and most likely the puller too just weld the puller to the flywheel and impact it off. We have to do that sometimes on really stubborn ones as well.

Sure can feel free to give me a call. Andy 9182731700

M&M ATV - Stellar Sub Ive got em in stock bare and they are on sale.

4 days left

Might think about trying one of the site sponsors like M&M, FAST, or HJR just a thought...

Have you done a leakdown to make sure your not leaking anywhere. And make sure the bowls have never been swapped if the choke circuit is changing the way it idles then the bowls could affect that. It may sound like one side stops firing but if the other side idles up the crank rotation will over come the other side and you wont hear it firing. Same thing happens when the carbs are out of sync. A air leak could cause this, the bowls being swapped or several other things do the simple stuff first.