No Limit Powersports

I got a set of big bore out of frame shearers 1 out each side small flange. They are brand new been setting of the wall for about a year. $350 Shipped

I feel that the new design is going to be a awesome addition to any duner, dragger, or trailrider imho. The bike will be able to be ridden without worry about wearing shift forks like you and i both know any (even duneable) trannys will do if back loaded heavily and at high rpms.

Ya were going to gaurantee the tranny and the shift forks for 3 months. What happens when yours wear shift forks after 6 months? All i will say is that we have done some of the most duneable trannys in the industry and we wont gaurantee anything im not willing to stand behind so when im sure about the tranny it will be released.

None takin, I have done prolly 150-200 overrides that i consider duneable in the last few years and gauranteed everyone of them and even had to replace a few but that was few and far between. Im not talking about guaranteeing the tranny i already do that im talking about guaranteeing the shift forks. With this new cut it will not wear shift forks gauranteed, downshifting, backloading whatever. We will put it out there as soon as were happy with it. Andy

Dont jump to that conclusion just yet we will soon have a override that will not wear shift forks and we will guarantee them for 3 months!

All of the sleeves protrude out the bottom even stock, and if your talking about it protruding out the top putting a spacer plate isnt goint to make the sleeve flush because it will not move in the cylinder? A 4mm can be done with cut domes which in my mind is the best and let the piston pop out the top it doesnt pop out past the rings anyway so it makes zero difference. Another way is using a spacer which is just another place for a leak but will work just fine either way the motor needs to be ported to gain the benefit from the added stroke length.

If your talking about one of the bolts in the inner hub and it didnt break the hub just pull it off and run a drill bit into the screw from the back side it will catch and unscrew it right out. If it broke it replace it dont ride it with one missing. We have them in stock and there not expensive.

Like tim said 45-46 stock and our lightened stockers that are +6 out the front are 38lbs so i would think 35 would be pretty easy without adding length

We always run 20:1 with alky dont be afraid to lubricate those cylinders.

Cam i still build alot of 535's thats just a popular motor. Your bike always runs good. I bet i built 5-10 of them last year. I know they have been out for awhile but its the same port layout as the cubs they just work and proven to boot! Cheetahs are still a hard motor to beat when done right. Keep in mind the DM's and espically the DMX's are new and we still have a ton of r&d to do to get then down where we want them.

Couple and hopefully get this DMX done for my customer so it will be there as well "now back to work!"

To start if you swapped plug wires from side to side and put new plugs in and the problem stayed on the same side it is not electrical. Always start with a new set of plugs they are cheap and prolly need it anyway then swap the wires. If the problem does not switch sides it is not a electrical problem. You can also swap carps side to side considering your not running stock and if the problem swaps sides then its in the carbs, take em down clean and reinstall.

typically a wide open throttle pop is a lean condition, just pull the plugs and see what you got.

We have tried both and know what works on the dyno and on the track. Alky has a calculated compression ratio and the bikes like to be pretty close to it. Each bike is different and depending on several things decides what the motor will like. I dont like to high of compression cause it will cause the motors to not rev the way i like them to but there is a happy medium.

What motor?

First things first do a leak down and see if you have a leak.

Well its hard to tell being that i didnt set up your current domes but i can tell you that alky likes alot of compression. You have any idea what your pumping pressure is now or better yet your ratio. Dome design is a huge part of the motors performance.

We custom cut all our alky domes. Shoot me a pm on what you have and ill shoot you a price.

Give me a call ill set you up Andy M&M ATV 9182731700

Ya same here. Im so ready to do some riding all these motors come and go and i have only got to ride prolly once or twice since the march trip. We are def ready for a good dune trip vacation. Even though it seems the trips turn out to be more work than play, but thats my fault shouldnt have made my hobby my job :shoothead: ... i still love my work. We will be out prolly like weds night or thursday and will stay thru sun hopefully the weather cooperates with us this trip. If anybody needs anything before the trip be sure to let us know early that week and ill throw it in the trailer.

Have always used threebond 1211

Ill pull off one spark plug cap and then we can race lol!!!

Anytime you move your wheel away from your pivot point with something like wheel spacer it will increase bumpsteer

Well feel free youll know us when you see us. We should be bringing several cubs, DM's, and if i finish it and my customer goes a 7mm dmx. Were going to stay up in the new stuff on lsps side 141 and 142 i think. Lots of good frame mods done by us and a couple drag chassis this year. Andy

If it is a hotrods crank it should say hot rods on the crank. Hotrods makes a 58 (4mm) with a 110mm rod or a 115mm rod if you have a 58mm stroke with a 110mm rod you will need a spacer or cut domes and 513 series pistons. If you have a 58mm stroke and 115mm rods you will need a spacer or cut domes and 795 series pistons. Either way the bike will not run as good as it should without doing the porting necessary to get the port timings correct.