No Limit Powersports

Putting a head on is a great mod to start with gives you almost unlimitless adjustablility on your compression and squish for future mods. Can you bolt one right one with no mods? Yes nothing else is needed. As far as picking a dome this is a very broad question, what gas you going to run, are you going to port, are you going to stroke all of these things have to be considered when choosing a dome. If you do decided to do a stroker a +4mm stroke 5mm longer rod is the most common and you will need either a spacer plate or special cut domes to compensate for the longer stroke and different pistons to compensate for the longer rod. A head timing plate and pipes are all great starting mods and the jetting should be checked/addressed with all of them. Hope this helps

68x58 comes around 197* ex 130* tf they also have 3 transfers per side and triple exhaust ports

When you increase stroke length you increase your pulse length which will pull on the main harder causing the bike to need to be down jetted to keep the air/fuel correct.

We have used a ton of different chains and found that the RK MXZ3 is about the toughest non-oring chain at about 8800lbs and last great. We just started carrying the sidewinder stuff and they claim 16000lbs but it is very expensive and we havent had a chance to test it yet on some of the bigger bikes. The sidewinder sprockets are gauanteed for life though but again very expensive.

Well i doubt i do much at my strip anymore just to much work to do by myself so as far as the lights go ill definately work with you guys. But the shodeo take a different timing system than the drags and they run around a grand. You will need to talk to Bob or some of the old deadend guys bout where to get them at.

You know ill support you guys however i need to josh. Do you guys have a timing system for the shodeo?

You need to split the cases and inspect the crank and bearing anyway plus the shavings can ruin a rubber seal pretty fast causing a air leak and another blown up motor. As far as shavings in the carbs just take them apart and inspect them and clean it all out most likely there is no damage. Just pick you favorite builder and send it to him.

The whole idea behind the clutch disengager is to make the adjuster stop spining with the pressure plate and let it spin on the pancake bearing. This way you dont create undoe friction on the ball bearing. You need to make sure you have the lock nut on the outside so that once adjusted the screw cannot move anymore other than that it cant come out of there once installed should have a washer/packacke bearing/washer on the back side of the plate.

They havent changed same part number and everything

have you tried it without your filter

4th clip sound way to fat try dropping the needle to the 2nd clip and see if it cleans up

What jetting do you have in it and who did the porting???

The nickasil is very tuff stuff unless you crash the motor it will last a long time. Cubs are cast with a dune/drag oriented port job the 68x58 really doesnt need much porting. As far as the bike lasting theres no telling you can build a brand new motor and have it fail, its mechanical, its not if its going to break its when, sooner or later the motor will need something.

Cub cylinders are not steel lined like oem and when the platers plate the cylinder comes back the same size that it was when you sent it to them. So it really dont matter if its on its 20 replate most likely still 65 or 68mm bore so that wouldnt be my concern. My concern would be why it has blew up 3 times??

What jetting are you running in the carbs... Sounds like a jetting problem to me ...

The keys are crap, to hard to install, and shear real easy and no adjustablility. The cast plates are fine the billet plates are real nice not really any stress on the plate itself so unless your prying it on and off you shouldnt break it which you shouldnt be doing any way .

Honestly if your going to spend the money on a aftermarket cylinder go with a cheetah or a cub. They are by far the best bang for the buck and have the most potential. If your only looking for a 60 hp i would def choose a good builder and just do a good port job but you have to understand with almost every modification you do you create another issue. For instance if you get a good port job you really need a head to get the compression and squish where your builder recommends. You are def going to have a hand full of a bike if you build a 80 horse bike with the stock swinger. For the money i would build a 68x54 cub if you have a good stock crank now and a 68x58 if you need a crank. Will they work with the fmf's yes they will bolt up and run but not to the full potential of the cylinder. And once you hit that 70+ mark your start really affecting clutch life especially if you ride in the sand much with out a lockup. A 68x54 cub will bolt right on to your stock setup and with a head and a tad bit of timing will make 70 hp fairly easy with your fmf's and stock carbs on pump gas and have the potential to make 85 maybe 100 if you go 4mm with the correct setup. Andy

I tried to measure them awhile back and it was around .120 -.123 pretty sure

How bout the cases and tranny?? how much for both

300 Shipped

They do have to bore the nikasil out to put new in and smooth everything up plus if the cylinder is gouged very bad it gets bored out anyway... but the nikasil is ver iynpressive stuff and can be laid on thick. We need to know what cheetah he has some our close some need a little attention but the smaller cheetahs are the same port timings as the cubs... Depending on what he has there is some power to be had by porting... by no means are you going to double the power like is possible in a stock cylinder but there is more power to be had but if done incorrectly porting can hurt more that it helps.

Are they for the cast cheetah head or aftermarket?

Hey tyler my bro has some he just took off his bike they are the production chrome not real shiney but they are chrome BB IF shearers let me know if your interested

We carry a line of full replacement bolt kits that are every bolt nut and washer on the bike 522 pc all stainless all socket head cap screws. These kits are labeled for each invidual part, and are extremely nice. Thought this would help. Bolt Kits

4mm stroker cranks will give you more stroke hence more displacement. But to utilize the added stroke and make more power you will need to have the cylinder ported to compensate.