No Limit Powersports

The plans are M&M will have a 350 cub, 2 4mm DM's, a 10mm cub, and our DMX. Chris(03portedshee) will pilot all of them but the 1 of the 4mm DM's and the 10mm cub cause these are all in the same class.

Wanted to let everybody know there will be the first race of the season in Nowata OK at Marrs ATV ranch Saturday June the 6th. The track is a sand track with plenty of shut down for everybody. Races start at 10 bring your own chairs. Classes are as follows: Kids Classes 50cc-110cc 130cc-200cc 4 stroke classes 0-435 450 stock class pipes cams 450 and up modified 2 stroke Stock class (52" wheelbase stock chassis) stock cylinder Super Stock (stock cylinder) 0-400cc no no2 naturally aspirated 0-475cc no no2 naturally aspirated 0-575cc no no2 naturally aspirated 0-unlimited $25 entry fee 100% payback I didnt make the classes just posting what Marrs gave me. Tracy is up for suggestions but the classes will be built around what shows up to keep the numbers up in each class. DIRECTIONS Andy M&M ATV

If your talking about the outer bearings its always a good idea to replace the pto side with a max load bearing.

Our thoughts and prayers are with him and his family M&M ATV

Did somebody say beer :beer:

With the increased angle from a shorter rod it will put more pressure on the piston wall/cylinder wall friction surface, thats given. Now if we take an increased amount of friction on the wall it will take more force to get the crank to rotate because as Tim said the force to move an object is relative to how much resistance that object has (this is the "for every action there is a equal and opposite reaction"). So in theory yes I feel that a longer rod during certain parts of the stroke is easier on the bearings and most importantly on the piston. But with whats readily available for our motors a short rod (110-115) to a longer rod (120-130) the wrist pin bearing is not the problem anyway so it really not where the short rod/long rod discussion needs to head. We have built several 64mm stroke 73 bore motors with the 115mm rod and they are hard on the pistons skirts but then again we have another dozen variables we can throw in the mix including and most importantly oil so to 100% attribute the piston wear to the short rod would be a inaccurate also. These are the kind of discussions that make me love these boards and not the how fast is my bike and will i out run a raptor!

What fuel are you running?

These are the kind of discussions that make a good board a good resource for people. The longer rod length does cause the angle of the rod to lessen causing less friction on the piston wall/cylinder wall at the same time giving a mechanical advantage to turn the force applied by the combustion cycle to downward motion to a longer rod but not in all quadrants of the crank rotation. So yes the force applied by the combustion is constant but it will turn the force into motion easier with a longer rod. But in the same hand a shorter rod will keep your port area time open longer and in theory cause the motor to pump more efficiently but the advantages of this can quickly be overcome by the friction loss by too short of rod. LOL this is one of those arguments that can be argued that shorter rods are better and longer rods are better and both be correct lol! So thats the million dollar question, whats the magical ratio.

If you checked fire and you have a good spark but it wont fire its either not firing at the right time or its a fuel if you pulled the stock carbs off make sure that there is a small hose that connects the two carbs together. It will be a small hose that is a straight shot from one carb to the other.

If you got spark but its not hitting you got spark at the wrong time giving thats all you changed. Pull the flywheel back off you most likely pushed the key out and indexed the flywheel incorrectly. You really have to be careful when your putting them on to make sure the key stays in the slot.

The problem with this comparison even if it is legit is that he removed the airbox and added fuel to compensate for the added air. The power increase was simply because more air more fuel more power.

All of us at M&M is leaving out tues morning be there around noon hopefully.

TTT

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Selling for one of my customers is a 68x61 cub setup. The cylinder needs to be replated. Comes with a 68x61 cub, arp head studs,noss head, billet one piece intakes, vforce III reeds and domes. Asking $1350 replated with new piston, rings and domes, or $750 as is. This setup will retail for about $1750. All you will need is pistons and rings and the replate and have a complete topend. Cylinder is just cleaned up by M&M ATV. Will not be polished when it comes back from the platers.

we have the only 4mm dmx built so far too date and there are no numbers on it yet seeing i dont have it ported or plated yet. I know Tim Bond is building one out of a 10mm casting and i think Garrett is too but we have the only as cast 4mm. HP numbers are not known yet but were hoping there stronger than the DM's ...

The M&M Crew will be rolling in on wed the 11th late and will be there thru the weekend. If i get everybody together by then should be bringing bout 7 or 8 drag bikes.

The TZ is not designed to take side load the max load bearing would be a better choice with the helical cut side gears.

sold

Thanks but no thanks

Staggering the paddles give you a bigger foot print and let you run a wider wheel. We find that the 12 staggered hooks just as hard a s a 13 straight... roughly...

500 + shipping

500 + shipping

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