No Limit Powersports

Im selling this motor as we really don't have time to use it anymore and its been setting for a few years. The motor was built to run to the 0-650 class at the PS races. I had a new chassis built for it a few years back and ended up selling it because we never track race anymore. I'm selling it as a complete setup with everything listed below from reeds to pipes. I sent the cylinder off to millennium for re-plating and its getting new pistons and rings and freshened up as we speak. Everything will be fresh for the next owner. The motor has been dynoed when i first built it and made around 130 hp but we made some serious improvements after some reed, timing and pipe changes and havent re dynoed it. 4mm DMX 84x58 ported by me at M&M Wiesco 675m08400 pistons Mattoon Billet DMX cases Hotrods crank with 125.3mm rods tz and max load bearings built by crankworks Straight cut gears stock ratio 1-5 nd Override w/ Robinson billet 2nd gear Mattoon 10 plate clutch setup Mattoon Billet Clutch cover M&M ATV Custom DMX water log Vforce II CR500 Reeds OEM Yamaha Stator and timing plate Shearer custom DMX hand coned 2 out the right pipes bare finish All this motor needs to run is intakes and carbs and a frame. I may be forgetting some things but i think i touched on everything. If you have any questions fell free to pm me or call. Ill post some pictures as soon we get it back together. This setup would cost well over 10k in parts alone to build $5500 shipped to the lower 48 Andy

This is the motor in the dyno section that we did made 118 on alky.

I still have some 4 over in black for sale.

<br /><br /><br /> Excuse me sir I have been over exactly what rods I have used in the past and what rods I use now. Even released testing data that I shouldnt have as there are alot of my competitors that sell that rod and ebay ads selling them. Its has nothing to do about admitting anything.

Thank you I think I should get 10 or 20 hotrod cranks out that have failed (and yes I have em) and throw some pics up so everybody that has a hotrod crank will tear there motor down and buy a crank from me. But that may be a lil shady... If someone out there has one of these cranks I guess I should tell you to shut your bike off asap...no just run it, tune it, take care of it, if it breaks call me.

Im just trying to help clear the water a little these are not my cranks and not what I sell and there is a reason for it. With that said I dont think all the crank failures are due to part failures. I have tested the king rod and honetsly I think they have changed because the rod I tested would not bend it would break. We do not use it, because we thought there were better options out there and there is, but I wouldn't tell any one to run scared because of a few pics on the internet.

I've been threw this over and over about are rods I'm not going over it again do a search and you will see what we use and what we have tested. If your going to let some one else scare you into tearing your motor apart feel free.

Right every customer leak downs there motor, checks squish, jets them perfectly and never has any detonation even though some of the failures I have read on here has to burn the plug off burn holes in the piston before they realize they are detonating there motor. Then there cranks fail and its the guy who sold its fault. Once again this is not our rods and there is a reason why we don't use them but not all failures are due to part failures. I feel for anyone that has had a premature failure if any one needs one of our cranks let me know.

Just for the record those are not our cranks... Continue

Open minded that this is not checkers, this is custom engine building and its not always a bolt together deal, sometimes you have to build the motor not just assemble it. How is a engine builder supposed to know that a motor wasnt detonated, or oiled like it should be, or installed like it should be, or hydro locked bending a rod at kick which I have seen hotrods do numerous times. Look im not saying that there isnt junk out there bc there is but everything can break. For the record the stock crank uses a material exactly like the gold king rod that is floating around out there and there are tons of stock cranks out there with a billion hours on it and still ticking. I changed rods bc I wanted something a little more resistant to failures but lets face it we dont have the demand to have unlimited products built for us unfortunately.

Ive seen hotrods bend at idle had one take out cases from a rev at idle hell got a handfull of them bent from just trying to kickstart. So its clear to me all hotrod cranks are junk... No Ive covered what rods we used not going into it again...you will just have do do a little searching

I love how everybody takes what they were "told" or "read" on here for gold. Most of the time over there own experience. So a competitor of ours said we sell junk lol imagine that. I dont make the parts I just try and prep them as well as I can and try to offer you a quality part. So take your tawain made hotrod part and put it in I have nothing against there parts we run them alot. Can they break, do I really need to answer that. Can ours break, sure. There will always be someone who broke 1 part and obviously that make all of that manufacturers parts junk...riiighht. On the flip side another person may have had good luck with a part and that makes all of that manufacturer parts indestructable...sure. Lets keep in mind most failures are due to other issues ie: tuning, oil, how its rode. People remember that you are building "custom" motors if you can't come into this a little open minded then you have no business putting it together and should send it to a pro. There are issues that come up with motors everyday but we just handle it and continue on our customers never even know about it.

Let me set a few things straight with people of concern on "MY CRANKS" as i will not speak for other peoples products just what i sell. Which I have done before but let me do it again. Let me start off by saying that the gold rod with the circle K on it is manufactured by King Rod out of Taiwan. I will have to dig up the metallurgist lab from all of the rod testing that we done. The gold rod was something like a 6170 material that is extremely hard with little to no yield (yield is the ability of the metal to flex or bend and return). The hot rod rod is a 4135 metal which has a lower tensile strength but a way higher yield. We also tested to other manufacturer rods including the one we currently use which is not the gold rod. The number 1 reasons cranks fail is detonation. That's not to say that you cant just have a rod failure because you can. When a rod has the ability to flex we have a little more forgiving rod when we do detonate a motor. For anyone that says that "american made Hot Rod" is the only crank that will not fail, you sir my friend are ignorant. I can show you any type of failure that you want to see in a hot rod crank. To the person that says thinks that Hot Rod cranks are american made...ehhhh no sir they are imported just like the rest in fact is says made in Taiwan right on the box. As far as i know there are no american forgeries that produce a banshee crank. Now for a little history lesson on what i use and why i use it. We did not start selling any products until we had thoroughly tested them. I ran the cranks i sell in my bikes for over a year. Started getting in parts assembling cranks and selling them. We had a couple of failures with the gold rods where we didn't think we should have had. Being concerned we took the motors down that we had the cranks in to check them out and the rods were different. At that point we stopped selling the gold rods did all of our testing chose a new rod and the rest is history. We dont have a bike in my shop that makes under 100hp and all with the exception of my 18dm run my cranks and we have not had a failure in going on 3 years now. We even have 1 of our 10mm cranks in a 10mm dm that makes 134hp to the wheels for over 2 years now with no failures yet and thats running a big heavy 78mm piston. If any body has any concerns fill free to give us a call. Andy

Jay did you put on a new coil, can't remember if you changed it. Make sure you change your plugs to a b9egv before you run it.

We are looking for a motivated and well spoken person with experience in the powersports industry. Some computer skills required. High school diploma or GED. We are seeking someone in the Bartlesville, OK area or someone willing to relocate to the area. Looking for someone seeking a long term career with the opportunity to grow with the company. Job responsibilities will include but not limited to: Parts counter sales Inventory control Parts ordering and Receiving Phone sales Shipping and Receiving Processing of E-Commerce orders Please send resume to info@nolimitps.com or pm Thanks Andy No Limit Powersports

Ive responded to your emails and sent you a pm so if your not getting them let me know. Appreciate you taking the time to start a post about this after 1 missed phone call. If you still want a refund let me know i will send out a call tag for the grill.

Wow, I apologize that your grill has not showed up yet. As stated above we are in the middle of a move, buisness buyout, starting a kawasaki yamaha franchise, building motors, setting up over 100 new units for sale, running m&m atv previous business, including the website, which is why I gave everybody a heads up because I might be a little slow getting back to you or shipping out product for a little while during this transition. You say your order has not shipped but it has just because the old site does not update the status I apologize. I did not have the grill in stock, and yes I do normally stock the grilles but with the move and buyout I shrunk my inventory as much as possible. If you would like your money back I will refund it asap. If you choose to not do business with us again, well thats your choice. If you will be just a little patient you will get your grill. If you are wanting the grill b4 snake hunt I will make sure you have it. Sorry for the delay I dont want anyone to wait a whole week on a grill I will try and improve if you decide to give us another shot. Andy

Well just wanted to give everybody an update. We have all of our remodel done and we are ready to start setting up shop. We have the phones up and running if anyone needs to get in touch with us. We have been working around the clock to get the shop open as fast as we could and i think it has been well worth it. Ill post up some pictures of the new shop this week. Our service department is packed with bikes and the motors are starting to roll in daily. Please like our facebook page to keep up with the latest updates No Limit Facebook Thanks for everyones patience Andy No Limit Powersports 918-333-4341

<br /><br /><br /> Ok lets just calm down a little there. I never discredited anything you or your partner have done or tested. This is an open forum and the reason myself and others love the forum is to discuss learn and get ideas. If your only interested in defending your pipe and carb choice and being hard headed we are just spinning our wheels and in that case I'm done here as well. What I'm trying to do is discuss your findings and mine and maybe give you some insight on why we use what combos we do and learn from yours as well. What you dont get is that I'm not a pipe builder I'm am engine builder I dont care what pipe works the best I'm just concerned that I know what works the best. Now if your interested into discussing ill keep sharing information and keep this an open forum if not no problem.

Cpi's that I tested always peaked under 9 shearers went to 9500+ everytime this is the same results that matt got as well. We also dont lean the bikes down too much which causes peak to go up these are conservative tunes. Did you use a/f meter or just tune off of the plugs?

We are right on hwy 75 now and basically straight west of the old shop so it would be a better drive for you tim but the same distance.

I guess at the chance of sounding arrogant I will just disagree smaller carbs and a "different" pipe would not work on this motor better than the current setup. I ported it and I cut the dome I know what will work.

You can absolutely load a bike correctly with out a load cell in fact its not even needed on a sweep pull. Load cells are to designed to do non sweep tuning like efi steady loads and mid throttle tuning. Not that it can't properly be utilized on a sweep pull but they can a also can be over used. The whole reason I question the load process is because of the big dif in between the loads which means the pipe was not able to build proper heat. As far as the pro circuit pipes go I would like to see the dome design that made them work better. Like I said there are other factors that make a pipe work.

Ok well i was just asking a simple dyno question on how the bike was loaded. If you understood how a pipe has to build heat then you would no that the bike being loaded properly means everything. I really could care less what pipe you like thats your choice and i'm not defending your pipe or mine this was directed at the dyno charts. Thats really neither here nor there as i was asking as to why your your unloaded runs were so much different than the loaded ones and with a 14/46 gear I understand but if your too caught up in pc vs brand x then thats fine. I will sell and build motors using the best parts possible and what makes the best power for us as it only makes are motors perform better and i am not a pipe builder. I have tested several different pipes on the serval and shearer pipes have been the best from top to bottom. No i have not tested a set of PC pipes on one yet and maybe one day i will when I have time. My dyno charts vs yours really makes no matter as like you said diff dyno diff day ect ect but i will tell you that its not just the pipe on a bolt on serval that makes the pipe work.

We have been trying to return calls as much as possible but we are very busy with the move. Feel free to call and leave another msg if we dont answer. Or pm on here and i will get back to you as soon as possible. Andy