No Limit Powersports

First off more oil is not a richer condition infact more oil is a leaner condition this is a common misconception. If you add more oil you are displacing the fuel in the air/fuel ratio where lies the rich lean conditions that you speak off. So technically more oil is actually leaning the motor out a bit. You want to keep in mind that a 2 stroke motor is not splash oil lubricated motor or does it have any lubrication other than what you put in your fuel so oil is a GOOD thing not bad. I get 2-3 people a day say its smoking alot so it needs to be rebuilt... WRONG... a 4 stroke smokes when the rings wear and lets oil get past them and gets burnt, burnt oil creates smoke. A 2 stroke has no oil in it anywhere but what you put in the fuel so start worrying when it quits smoking. IMO at least a 32:1 mixture on gas and a 24:1 on alky is necessary to let the motor live. I run my alky motors at 20:1 thats a full quart in 5 gallons. Calvin at cp done a test on several different dynos to prove something to the dyno owners (builders) which we have not done on mine yet but we will eventually. The test that he done was testing a motor at mixtures from 50:1 all the way to like 10:1 and everytime more oil made more power. Now with that said oil does not burn as well as fuel so there is a point where the bike gets too hard to clean out or burn the oil off the plug if you will. He tells me that the bikes at 10:1 smoked like a freight train. We havent done this on my dyno yet but we soon will. But with all that aside just do your motor a favor and give it some lubrication!

Start with around a 160 main and check plugs that should be a safe starting place not to rich not to lean. You will probably end up around lower but just keep checking plugs.

We have them in stock! Give us a call. Andy M&M ATV 9182731700

Whats your elevation. Tell us a little more about your other supporting mods. Alky likes to be around 15.5-16.5:1

If its only hitting on one side and you changed plug wires and the problem did not change sides its most likely a fuel issue. If you have stock carbs make sure the choke tube is in place, make sure that you have the right bowl on the right carb there is a difference. If Unlikely that its ignition related if its only affecting one side but be sure and check the pickup gap at the flywheel should be about .020, and make sure the tors is disabled.

We got them in stock! Give us a call 918.273.1700 Andy M&M ATV

I wouldn't recommend a neutral down if ur doing any trail riding. Think about it now when banging the trails to get to a lower gear you always just shift down. I don't know about you but I don't keep track of what gear I'm in just more natural than that. With a neutral down u would have to go all the way down then up 1. Also do a search on extreme duneable sounds like what you are looking for we have them in stock.

Blaster pistons or 573's have a 5mm higher pin height for a 115 rod or long rod. Stroke does not matter. So yes the 573 can be used if its a long rod (115mm).

A faulty cdi can cause a lot of different issues but revving up is not one. The only thing that can cause free reving is too much air or too much air and fuel aka stuck throttle. The kill switch is ran threw the cdi so a shorted cdi could cause the kill not to work. That is why we hook our kill directly up to the coil to ground them out.

There is nothing that the cdi can do to make the bike rev without throttle. You most likely have a air leak and the bike is lean sticking. Check all of your boots, intake bolts, carb top. And make 100% that the slides are not open. An easy way to find the leak will be a leak down test and if it a crank seal this might be the only way. You can spray ether on all of the connections and seals to see if the bike revs up but if it is already reving prolly not a good idea.

No where did i try and scare him into thinking your stupid. But for anybody to come on here and say that you can run 20cc domes on pumpgas without asking for more information is incorrect. I seen nowhere where you asked about bore size, squish, exhaust height, or most importanly what octane fuel his pump gas was. How can you sell a guy a set of domes without the rest of the information and feel good about him not blowing up his motor. Not saying that a 20cc dome will not be perfectly fine, but from the vague information that was given about the motor its at least on the border of the pump gas compression ratio, at least for the shitty pump gas we have around here. I never said it was a 78 bore but you didnt ask what bore it was on either so that was just a exaggeration to prove a point. There are a million varibles that could make or break the motor, hell it could be worn and run with 18cc domes but that does not mean that would be the correct way of setting it up. Again every setup is totally different you said nothing about elevation, squish, jetting... There are def ways to set a motor up with higher compression and make it live on pump gas, and everybody has there own ideas in this area. IMO I feel that the tune is far more important than compression and the bikes will make better power tuned properly at a safe compression level than fat at a higher compression level to prevent deto (or retarded timing). Again a 20cc dome may work perfectly for you. I would typically ask for more information before throwing a number out at you because ive seen it done once or twice or read it on here a dozen times. No offense to anyone sorry if it was taken that way.

To just say one is fine with x cc domes and thats it, is totally incorrect. You absolutely have to factor in all of the parts that make up a given compression ratio, which is different than pumping pressure. A 20 cc dome is not close to the same ratio on a 64 bore vs say a 78 bore. Bore size, port heights, transfer volume, crankcase volume, elevation, pipe design, squish, spark plug depth -- in relation to dome size can make a difference on compression ratio. Now with that said a totally stock bike running 20cc domes on pump gase at sea level would be marginal with 0 added timing, and unless the tuner was fairly good I probably would not set up a bike that tight for pump gas. Pump gas is just to inconsistent to be reliable.

Sorry this didnt last long. Sold!

I have arp studs for the head, and the arp small nuts for the cylinder. We have done hundreds of motors with the arp nuts and never loctited one of them and not one problem to date, I wonder if there were other issues with your build?

Have you checked squish? And how are you doing the test? Make sure that you are opening the throttle wide open and giving 10-15 good hard fast kicks.

Just to set some things straight Hotrod and wiesco cranks are not the same, they are produced by 2 completely different companies. Only the 4mm hotrods is welded from the factory but very little. We recommend welding the cranks at all power levels its just cheap insurance. Its not if the cranks will separate its just when!

We have arp studs in stock for stock length and pro design length studs. They are stainless and have the allen head broached in the top for easy installation.

Agreed and its not just a low end gain, too much timing can be but when the right timing for your motor is found you will pick up peak hp as well. Just changing timing curves we have seen 10 hp swings on the dyno in peak power. But always remember timing and compression can cause detonationg if they are too high for your fuel.

Those estimates are for stock cylinders not cubs. A cub motor has a completly different transfer, intake and exhaust setup. A 19cc dome should make more than 140 on the smallest cub motor I would like to know how exactly you are doing the test and what kind of gauge you are using, then you need to do a squish test.

Thats the one the biggest of the 3 just make sure and use a file to knock the angle off of it so the jam nut will seat.

Sale Pending

ttt

PM

As with us we use one needle on all are banshees for gas and one for alky, never had to buy a alternative needle.

Ive got a new 68x58 4mm cub for sale. It was a customer trade in that didnt need it. Ill take $600 plus the ride. Add 3% for paypal fees. This is a brand new cylinder.