No Limit Powersports

I did not mean to sound derogatory towards your product and im sorry if you took it that way. My post was meant to show people the amazing customer service and quality of work that David has. We just like that we can design our own dome to our specs and have it made in a very timely fashion. We have 5 cnc machines and could make are own domes very easily but like David said its not a efficient use of our time when he can do it for us (plus he is a local for us). David produces heads for some of the top builders in the country and has very good designs of his own as well. And sometimes custom is absolutely necessary because of decking issues, custom build issues, whatever they may be but for us is necessary. Seeing that squish is a very small but important part of dome design there are many other factors that we change from motor to motor. I have to say that Davids material has never been an issue before and seems to be adequate for our and many others needs, not that im trying to take anything away from your product.

I think that all the builders have there preference. I love the lectrons and imo one of the best carbs on the market and easiest to tune. We done a 4mm supercub on the dyno the other day with a set of mikunis set up by k&t and made 102 switched to lectrons made 111. And i worked on the mikunis for an hour or more, had the lectrons there in about 3 pulls. They can be finiky if there not setup correctly and packard is the man to do that. Like i said everybody has there preference and mine is lectrons. And some of the fastest bikes in the industry run lectrons as well.

I would suspect a stator problem especially if you went through a lot of water but it could be a number of things if you have a buddy with another bike start swapping parts till you figure it out.

When it quits smoking you need to start worrying, remember this is a 2 stroke. It is burning oil, you put it right in the fuel remember, at least i hope you did. Typically if you have a coolant leaking you will get real white smoke and usually only from one side. Just check your coolant level and see if your loosing coolant. If its smoking more out one side then the other there are things it could be. Just give us some more info.

Basically a leak down test is pressurizing the crankcase to make sure there are no leaks. You have to plug the exhaust, intake and spark plug holes have a way to air it up and a way to measure the pressure, do a quick search you will prolly find some how to's. With methanol you can run 7-10* on the plate with the stock cdi safely but i dont know who built your motor and what it will like the most.

Unfortunately you probably blew it up again. In order to get different results your going to have to do different things. A hole in a piston is usually from detonation, which can be caused by a couple of different things. One, running to lean, either from a air leak, or just not properly jetted. After you put a motor back together it needs to be leak down tested, and did you split the cases and make sure everything was clean and free of pieces of the piston? The second thing is too much timing, how much timing is in the bike now?

We have been selling the wcr trannies for about 4 years now and have had awesome luck with them. Yes they can be difficult to deal with thats why i suggest finding someone that has there stuff in stock like ourselves or jeff @ fast. We are only doing the extremes in stock at this point bc they are the best tranny available and thats what we like to stock, we can cut anything they offer just dont stock anything but the extreme. I do have 4 of them in stock all 1-5nD and all have the level 2 undercut on the pinions to make it really hold up to the power. The trannys are not meant to be down shifted under a load just nature of the cut but if you can get away with it more power to you. IMO the weak part to the stock banshee tranny is the countershaft then 2nd gear in that order. What happens with very high hp machines is that 1st gear is the farthest from the sprocket so a 1st gear start is the hardest on the counter shaft so with high hp machines i would recommend a 2-5 but with anything 110 (imo) and down 1-5 is the best option bc it gives you the most gearing options. All the duneables can be downshifted just fine thats not what the premature wear on the forks is from. The wear comes from back loading the tranny, in other words putting the power thru the tranny backwords (slowing down without pulling in the clutch). Now downshifting can have this affect as well because if you downshift say one gear and let out of the clutch you can back load the tranny. The extreme is a no rules tranny backload it, downshift it, basically ride it just like a stock one except for the full throttle clutchless upshifting. As far as neutral down goes if your going to do any duneing or trailriding i wouldnt recommend it bc its not as easy to find 1st as a neutral in the stock location. If your dragging ND is by far the only way to go.

Stock banshee carrier are 35mm not 32 or 28.

probably didnt get the key back in the flywheel correctly and your timing was way off, then when you took it off to change it you got it back in correctly the 2nd time.

He is using ball joints now on all the recreational/mx stuff now but still using the lightweight inexpensive heims on the drags stuff.

I would probably would try to avoid rs if i could. Picking up a good used one is always a gamble cause it may not work but oem is the best bet. Also might consider a dyna ignition they are not as cheap but work pretty well and are programmable.

I haven't actually checked volume on each head but I have seen both and know the inherit machining capabilities in the design of a one piece head. Now with that said I could def eat my own words and david probably knows the volume of his head or we could check both of them but either way you will prolly not see a temp drop from a few ounces of extra coolant. Now there are more orings in a two piece design but 99% of the time the oring that blows is the dome oring. But like I said dome design is what a head is all about and dave is a great dome designer and allows all the builders including me to design our own domes and cuts them virtually the same day. Now with all that said its still really a matter of prefrence to most people but that's my opinion.

Its just the nature of stainless especially into aluminum it galds. Using a small dab of anit-sieze will do wonders. We have our on kits they are 522 pc individually packaged so you know where every single bolt and nut goes. We have them in stock ready to go. The Polished on these if you spring for it is amazing. Polished Standard Show Polish M&M ATV

None of the aftermarket heads use a stock style head gasket, they all use orings. IMO and i have installed all of the above the noss design is superior to all the one piece designs for a couple of reasons. You cannot get the coolant volume from machining all the volume from one piece that you can get from the two piece head. 2nd if you install a 2 piece head its easier to make sure that you didnt pinch a dome oring than with a single piece because you can set the bottom plate on the clyinder with the domes in it or on the head vs installing it as a hole assembly (like i said this is my opinion and prefrence). 3rd as far as performance goes a dome is only as good as the designer or design, and the Noss off the shelf domes are a better dome than the others imo. And David also allows us as builders to custom design your dome to fit your motor not just a universal one size fits all, now i can not speak for pro design, or chariot because i have never tried to custom cut a set of there domes but david has usually a 1 day turn around on all our custom stuff.

Not necessarily it could be wiring, tors(if its still hooked up), and i have seen stators bench test ok and be bad and vice versa. If you have a buddy with a bike try his cdi first thats an easy check then his stator.

Whoops where did the year go? Thanks man. Chris will be riding the bike but plan on letting tim ride it some too.

We will be in the shop monday the 9th then leaving the 10th thru the 17th. The secretary will be working so there will be orders shipped out but limited tech support. We will be attending the PS race in laughlin NV and should return on the 18th. I will be checking emails so that is the best way to reach me. We will be taking our 4mm DMX on our Stellar chassis to AVI. We will be in the 0-650 limited, and unlimited hopefully. I also want everybody to know that we have a ton of stellar product in stock so if there is anything you need let us know and we can ship it out without delay. Thanks for all the support

LOL dont stir that pot!!! He was supposed to then my jockey decided he would fly in now who knows lol. Either way the diet is good for him. Im sure tim will ride he chassis at least a few passes.

He better cause I'm puttin his but to work

There is no side load if your running straight cut gears. And the TZ (roller) style bearing should only be used with the straight cuts, because the bearing isnt designed to take any side load like a ball bearing will. Maxloads have a c clip retaining collar so there is no floating.

LMAO your wife will appreciate it anyway tim. I told you i will let you make some passes and i will, dont worry. Im going to be getting the dmx on the dyno maybe this weekend to see if we can brake the chassis again lol just messing with you man. Chris isnt going untill he is on the plane and we takeoff. Ill tell you what as soon as the race is over ill take you guys out for a big ole steak and you can just go crazy. Chris told me that garrett is wanting him to ride there turbo dmx in the unlimited 650 class so if he does that you can have mine and all the spray you can handle .

Got to have air, fuel, and spark, spark at the correct time. If the flywheel key is sheared or just pushed out and its off say 45 degrees it will never start you might occasionaly get a back fire. Pull the flywheel and make sure the key is in correclty. Also make sure the carbs are clean, and if there stock make sure the choke tube is in between the carbs.

Big bore pistons in the shortrod are not scarce wiesco 9768mo6800 for a 68 bore short rod readily availble i always stock them for this is one of my more popular motors. Sometimes you just have to see it. For some people its just that omg moment that they just dont understand. Esp when you apply the principles to a 2 stroke the correct rod ratio can make a considerable difference. There are advantages to both. Shorter rods open the ports longer, longer rods are easier on the rotating assembly, cylinder walls, and dwell where the power is made tdc.

You do not have to run a spacer plate with a long rod crank just the 795 pistons but you are correct if you do a 4mm stroker and +5mm rod which is most common you have to run the 795 to compensate for the longer rod and a spacer or a cut dome to allow for the additional stroke, assuming were talking about stock cylinders. Lets also keep in mind that a longer rod will dwell at tdc and bdc longer than a shorter rod. So the shorter rod will actually allow the ports to be open longer than a long rod motor will. The longer rod motor will put less of a angle on the piston at a given degree of rotation so less drag. So whats better long rod/short rod... well thats the ford/chevy/dodge question. Its all really prefrence. Some people have a hard time with the short rod/long rod comparison. Here is a little animation of it in action where you can actually see the difference. Now apply it to 2 strokes where are valves are in the cylinder and one can see some real advantages/disadvantages of both. Long Rod/Short Rod comparison Agreed, additional stroke cannot be fully taken advantage of unless the ports are corrected.

I would double check to make sure you got the timing set in the right position and that the flywheel key is in and didnt push out. It is a common problem that the key didnt stay put and the flywheel is off causing the timing to jump around. 4 to 5 degrees advanced is not alot but really need to know more about your setup to tell if its going to do any harm. Compression, fuel, ect...