DUNEDEMON

Some one here on the site just had their pipes ceramic coated, do a search or look around. As far as the powdercoating is concerned NO it will not work, the pipes get too hot, especially near the cylinders, thus causing the coating to burn off

Hand tools, parkingbrake block-off-plate, new clutch lever, or modify the OEM lever assembly, and about 10 minutes.

As stated earlier a "Mity Vac" vacum pump will makt the job easier. I had a similar problem after installing my front lines, attached the pump to the bleeder on the caliper (one at a time) open the bleeder, don't touch the brake lever, give a few pumps on the mity vac and presto - brake fluid, I would try this before swapping master cyls. Especially if the master was working fine before the installation of the new lines.

If the end of the axle is distorted way out of shape (looks like a mushroom head) you will probably have a hard time getting a die to thread on. You may have to grind the end slightly to get back to a more uniform diameter, then use a thread file (metric) to clean up the threads.

No problem, I'm not mad at ya' was just curious hoe manny "shearer pipe" companies are out there. Matt is a friend of a friend.

Yes, it sounds like you're lean on the bottom, depending on the port work done you may be lean on top too. I like to get WOT dialed in first, do a top gear run, kill the engine, do a plug color check / plug chop to see where you are at, then work back from there. Try dropping the clips on the needles one position, and adjust your pilots and air srews accordingly to clean up the bottom end if you feel good about the 1/2 - 3/4 - wide open throttle position jetting. This is just my advise on how I work out jetting issues.

I'll chime in too. I have a durablue x33 adjustable width axle, have'nt had any problems with it. You can't go wrong with any aftermarket axle, they're all an upgrade from stock. If funds are limited, perhaps buy a used stocker in good shape, try the for sale / wanted sections here, or ebay and I'm sure you'll find something.

Who is "Jim Shearer"? Matt Shearer is in CA, I have his "Shearer" pipes on my bike. Two different Shearer pipe companies, or a name mix up?

Check FMF's site, I just saw an ad for some new silencers they have developed with internal spark arrestors, they're round like Pro Circuts or Toomeys.

Get the Titanic sinking into your belt-line.

People I know are having great resultes after doing the "cam mod" (retarding the exhaust cam one tooth) jetting the bike correctly, and installing a good air filter and exhaust. There are a few good sites dedicated to the YFZ450 full of tuning ideas and step by step modifications.

Try calling them directly, if they won't sell direct to you they can give you a list of their distribotors in your area. Skat Trak (909) 795-2505 or (800) 969-7528 or http://www.skat-trak.com

I've got the sand stars, and for general duning I don't think they can be beat. Not much good for drag racing, but they work awesome in the dunes, better than the haulers I used to run.

Make sure you have not pinched or dropped an O ring while installing them. You may have to remove or even the material's thickness on the flanges if they were coated to get them to sit flush against the head.

Well they're gone. One was impacted so they had to do some digging, still pretty sore, major swelling. Thanks for the advise guys - atleast I won't have to deal with that again.

Depends upon what you have done, call Todd and discuss your wants / needs, this will dictate pricing.

Call Todd Davis at TCS (Total Conttrol Suspension) he can completley re-build, re-valve, re-spring your rear shock for about 1/2 the price of the cheapest replacemant after-market rear shocks. He's a good guy, easy to deal with and does great work. (909) 245-7484.

Get the Gnarlie tomey's you'll have the best of both worlds, jetting go with 480 mains and 22 pilots, that setup will give you about 100HP with the bigger bore kit, put 3 full turns on the gonjulator and it'l rip. I could not resist.

Sandstar, now you have contradicted yourself and which is it? you asked the question, we were sipmply giving our advise to first time Glamis patrons. And it's not about being anti-social, it's about enjoying your trip while camping in a safe / secure area especially if you have kids, but most of all enjoying yourself. Who wants to wear a dust mask at camp when you get back from a ride? or put one one first thing in the morning? Not me, thats why I do not reccomend camping at the washes.

I do not use a gasket, just took a dremmel and machined a small groove in the bottom of the main cover below the flywheel area for water to drain out after washing the bike. I don't ride in wet conditions.

For what it's wort I have a durablue adjustable width X-33 axle with their hubs, bearing carrier, sprocket hub, and "new version" locknut. I ride the bike extremly hard - mostly in the dunes and desert with no trouble what so ever. Perhaps if I were riding on a MX track or doing 60 doubles I would have issues. Bottom line, I say stick with a name brand, and go with what you can afford.

I've got the Tag T2's. They were listed speciffically for the banshee by Tag, not sure what bend that equates to. Their clamp if used with the stock stem will however raise the bars about a 1/2". I have a lonestar anti-vibe stem (stock length) but had to machine an adapter to fit the Tag clamp to the anti-vibe stem, lonestar's clamp doesn't fit the "knurled" portion of the T2 bars. The bars are super comfortable, the anti-vibe mount on the stem is nice too.

Thanks for the salt water tip guys. The smoking thing wont be an issue - I don't smoke anything.

Well I'm getting all 4 of my wisdom teeth pulled tomorrow morning. Just looking to see what I'm in for. I hear the older you are the rougher it is, any truth to this? I'm 27, am I in for some serious recovery time? I've got a pretty high tolerance for pain. Any advise???

I was just busting your balls in an effort to cheer you up. Did you get it running / jetted right?