DUNEDEMON

OK I give, MotulMonsta I apoligize, you are correct, you reduce the unsprung weight of the suspension assembly by only the weight of the oil which is minimal at best. What you guys fail to realizie is that the individual suspensions corner weight vs the minimal change in unsprung weight is cancelled by the suspension frequency at that corner, which is based on the wheel rate. The wheel rate is derived from the spring rate and tha calculated motion ratio. Still with me? Bottom line is that if you were to "flip" your front shocks, with out some on-board data logging equipment to show you changes in frequency and oscillation you will not feel / tell a difference. Why do none of the "Pro's" or aftermarket shock companies build / mount shocks this way? Because the difference in unsprung weight, and spring rate needed to control the suspensions movement is neglidgeable.

Now you are talking! Good luck with that.

Not trying to attack you, just trying to prevent members from being miss-led by your wrong information. Some of the information you post is just flat wrong thats all. That was my point, "ballance points" of shocks / springs is not done in the industry, it is of no value, and is frankly a bogus term. If you have an opinion or idea about something that is fine, you are entitled to that, just don't post BS as if it's fact.

Unsprung weight is described as ANYTHING being controlled by the spring / shock combination. The shock does not know that it is upsidedown, and you have not eliminated any weight by installing it upsidedown. Thus no change in unsprung weight. Please explain to us how this is done and what exactly this is, or are you just pulling this stuff out of your ass? I do suspension design / engineering for a living and have never heard of a shocks "ballance point"

That's a good idea it will help me to work on my lawn mower, I'll do that. You on the other hand should go sign up for begining physics 101, or perhaps take a suspension technology course at your local comunity college.

MotulMonsta you are absolutely clueless..If I go from a 2 foot handle to a 4 foot handle, ONLY the handle length has changed, NOT the pivot piont. I used the floor jack for an analogy, hopefully some one understood it, clearly you did not. I am begining to think that you don't have any idea what you are talking about regarding Banshees. Your post about unsprung weight proved this point.

NO IT DOES NOT, the only way to reduce "un spring" weight would be to remove heavy parts and replace them with lighter parts, or leave them off all together.

Call "Kevin" he's the owner of Custom Creations ATV in Yucaipa CA (909) 797-1585, top notch work, more honest / reasonable than Rudy @ Port Magic

Wrong, you must move the "pick up point" for the cable end, the pivot point is the same. The difference it that with the new pick up point in increases the motion ratio of the lever. Wrong again, you are increasing the amount of distance the cable moves slightly, it "feels" lighter because it is, based on the larger fulcrum effect. Picture this, is it easier to use a floor jack with a 2 foot handle or a 4 foot handle? the 4 foot one, this is because of the larger motion ratio on the lever (handle) did we change the pivot point on the jack? NO. RTC's levers work on the same principal, the pivot point is the same no mater what cable location you use, but based on the cable location you change the ratio in which the cable is pulled (study the photo above if it works and this should make sense) Wrong yet again, the cable actuating the clutch is moving its full range (if adjusted correctly) and if the clutch is adjusted correctly it will not become "grabby" MotulMonsta, I'm not trying to attack you, it just seems that you post frequently with lots of answers that are way out in left field.

Sorry I should have mentioned that I have Fullbore Plastics - no rubbing issues.

I've got a PWR radiator in my bike, no problems at all, fit great to which I was skeptical about, 30% more cooling than the standard radiator, the bike never gets above 190 F no matter what I do.

I run VP 110 fuel mixed at 40:1 with ipone fully synthetic oil.

Keep your eyes peeled for me. What kind of trailer did you end up getting? Lets see some pictures.

I would advise against this, 10 paddles are a lot of tire, I reccomend staying with an 8 paddle tire no matter what size (20, 22 etc..) you go with. Unless you have some serious engine work planned for the very near future.

I would think so.

NONE.........Good air filter = no problems.

Yeah, I'm curious too.

Welcome to the HQ, lets see some pictures of your bike.

What do you mean? Not so my man, Brian's (RTC's owner) has done extensive testing on the lever, plus if you look closely at one you can see the design differences compared to the standard ez pull levers. I installed it with a new cable 5 months ago and after about 60 hours of riding I have yet to have any issues with the lever, cable, or clutch engagement.

Unless you Banshee is turbocharged or supercharged an intercooler will not do you a bit of good. Are you sure this is what you are looking for? Do you have a picture or a description of the part your are after?

Try "Motion Pro", they can custom make any throttle cable based on end configuration and length. Or you could contact Graydon or Trinity regarding a replacement cable (depending on which 2 into 1 you have)

It's gonna' be a rough ride into olds on that D8.

I really like it, on longer rides with no stops it makes it easy to keep yourself hydrated (prevent dry mouth / take a drink) while you are riding, just position the mouth piece / bitevalve before you start out and you are good to go.

Never heard of breaking clutch cables this frequently, you must have had a junk lever. Here is what I run "Pro Pull" clutch lever from RTC Racing products. My advise to those of you in the market for new clutch hardware would be to froget the Magura stuff, and go with this lever. Check the site for details. http://www.rtcracingproducts.com

I have not purchased anything from him YET, but I am in the market for one of his CUSTOM rear grab bars, he was kind enough to send me some pictures, that sealed the deal. His stuff looks top notch.