DUNEDEMON

I have the Graydon Proline 2 into 1 setup (a good friend of mine makes them for graydon, so I got it through him) with a kehin PWK 35mm air stryker. The inside of the manifold has been "spiral flutted" for increased fuel atomization, and we added a special set of reed spacers port matched to the manifold to better direct the increased flow to the reeds (this was all done on a flow bench to track CFM) My engine is a 370 long rod (IMS hot rods, wiseco superlites, proto-type needle bearings on the trued and welded crank), hinson basket, pressure plate, 8 pack clutch set up, agressive dune port for the cylinders, head cut 90 thousandths and re-chambered, pwr radiator, warp drive temp guage (bike runs at 160-180 deg F) with Matt Sheer pipes / silencers specifically made for the engines spec's, 14" long by 4" OD K&N air filter (same one Dennis Packard uses) I run VP 110 fuel mixed at 40:1 with ipone fully synthetic oil. The bike runs extremly strong from top to bottom, made 64 HP, and 52 LB / FT of torque on the dyno, jetting is a snap, tuning is super easy. The engine was built by Kevin Kohrell at Custom Creations ATV in Yucaipa, CA. Gearing is 13 / 41 I run 20x11x10 8 paddle sand stars on a +4 swingarm with a TCS rear shock. I've posted pictures of the pipes and carb/intake setup before, but if you want to see them again let me know. Ask wallrat about his impression of the bike, he rode it for a bit at Glamis over presidents weekend.

No problem SANDSTAR, I wasn't trying to make you look bad, just trying to understand your logic regarding the "best/worst" spot to camp. I apoligize if I offended you, that was not my intent. I was simply stating my opinion. Glamis is a fantastic place to camp / ride, I don't care where any one camps, just hate to see someone have a bad experience based on the place they camped.

If you play golf, there's no need to drive to St. George, there are plenty of awesome courses in LV.

I run Shearers and think they're great. Mid to top end pull is outrageous when jetted / geared right.

The front and rear sandstar tire set is by far the best general dune set up I have ever ran. The rear tires are great, tremendous bite, easy to slide. The front tires respond quicker to steering input than other single rib front tires I have used. Bottom line, get the sandstars and you won't be disapointed.

I run a +4 and think it is the perfect length for general duning.

You need a stiffer rate rear shock spring. The increase in swing arm length changed the motion ratio of the rear suspension, thus reducing the effective wheel rate. An increased rate rear spring, and rear shock re-valve will cure your problem.

banshee370, thanks for the intelligent reply. I am well aware of the weight differences between conventionals and beadlocks, for some people this is an issue, and good to know. Strange that the weight comparisons you did came out that way. I weighed my hiper 10x10 dual beadlock and compared the weights of my old douglas wheels with champion bead locks (10x10 also) and the hipers were 2.5 LBS a piece lighter.

No problem, I just hate to see some one be miss-led by an opinion. MotulMonsta seems to be posting quite a bit of his opinions, most of which are un-informed.

Sticks and stones.. I just didn't think a lazy fool should have posted it here since we have the "for sale / Wanted / Swap & Trade" sections. It's not hard to use the forum correctly.

I'll chime in. I've got a durablue x33 axle and love it - no problems, just telling you what I have, not looking to debate opinions on axle manufacturers quality or durability. Any aftermarket axle is going to be an upgrade. The installation of the new axle is a snap. The hard part is removing the old one. If you ride in wet / muddy conditions frequently, or wash your bike often, chances are the stock axle will give you a bit of a headache as a result of some rust in the bearing carrier. After removing all the necessary componentry I have found it will be necessary to beat the shit out of the end of the axle in order to remove it from the carrier. This can be acomplished with a BFH, or by removing the carrier from the swing arm itself and using it as a handle to drive the axle into the ground (slide hammer effect) These are extreme cases mind you, if rust is present or if you don't care about salvaging the old axle. Then just inspect / replace the bearings and seals as needed.

You are killing me sredish, they are not in my pocket, nor do they force / pay me to run their products. Yes I have friends at IMS, but they produce a quality product. As far as I am concerned the set up I have gives greater protection from the tire than a set of nerfs would.

I've never found traction to cause a tire to come off the bead, low air pressure, extreme side loading are what cause a tire to come off the bead. And when running paddles in the sand you get maximum tration, I can't think of where you get better traction. Wasn't looking for opinions, was looking for any one running them and their reasons.

Happy belated birthday to Stan and Ben, hope you had good B-Days, unfortunatley, due to budget cut backs I will not be sending presents out this year.

Just to add some confusion to the mix, let's not forget that the PWK's are also availible in the "Air Srtyker" configuration.

I don't care for the way "nerfs" look, so I use theese (IMS pegs / guards)

140-180 is too much variation, better check that information. Try a repair manual or call a shock company (one that does service / revalves etc..)

Is this the for sale section? NO

My experience has been that the "flat" or "round" design does not make that big a diference for general duning. I find the biggest diference to be the amount of paddles, wheel width, wheel diameter. Going from 8 to 10 is a big jump. I personally do not like any more than 8 paddles for duning but it all comes down to personal prefrence and riding style. I would imagine you will find yourself clutching the bike more to keep it in the power-band in the dunes with the 10 paddle, it's a lot of tire.

Yup, and I've got another set on the way. Best wheel I've ever ran, plus they blow peoples minds at the sand box.

What size PWK 33 or 35? air stryker or not?

Try calling Skat-Trak directly, explain what exactly you are looking for, they will make just about any size paddle tire. If they don't have they particular size (13" wheel) you may have to supply a donor tire for buffing and paddle installation. Skat-Trak (909) 795-2505, (800)969-7528, http://www.skat-trak.com

Was just curious to see if anyone was running Hipers or any other type of beadlock (single or dual) with their sand tires.......Not you "hill shooter only" guys, looking to hear from the seroius "duner" types. Thanks.

Don't forget to look into a re-valve and new (increased rate) rear spring for the rear shock after installing the swingarm.

Matt Shearer makes some sweet drag pipes, both in / out frame. The guy that built my engine swears by them on his stroked T-Rex booze bikes.