DUNEDEMON

Fireman-hott, look back on page two of this post for more information regarding the manifold. If you want one I can get them pretty cheap. Dunedemon.

rebelbanshee2, The pipes were made by a guy nammed "Matt Shearer" he builds one off stuff based on the spec's of your engine. Dunedemon.

I took some pictures of my manifold / carb set-up, would love to share them, but can't figure out how to post picturres here. I'll be happy to e-mail them if anyone would like to view them. Let me know. Dunedemon.

Actually guys, I sold the skid plate, so now I'm asking $ 50 plus shipping for the bumper, and I now have pictures, unfortunalley I lack the skill needed to post pictures on this site, so if you are still interrested and want to see it drop me an e-mail [email protected]. Dunedemon.

What time zone is this site in? Eveytime I post the times shown throw me for a loop. Am I the only one? Work with me here!!! Plus every time I post my watch says it's BEER 30 - strange. Dunedemon.

Powder coating is your best option. Paint will not last, chrome is a BAD idea and here's why. As a result of the chroming process, the hydrogen atoms in the spring wire (either chrome silicon steel or chrome vanadium steel) are released from the steel while in the electrolosis tank (electricity is used in chroming to get the chrome to "throw" to the part) this releasing of the hydrogen atoms is known as "hydrogen embritlement" and it does just that, it makes the part that was chromed brittle. In the case of springs it re-tempers the spring wire, thus resulting in a drop in rate, induces stress risers and weakens the spring tremendously eventually leading to a failure. A lot of people chrome springs, that does not make it a good idea. Hope this helps. Dunedemon.

lowazzaccord, I've got a front bumper and full chassis skid plate by "PRM-ATV" for sale (posted in the for sale section here) it's the "baja" style both pieces are in great condition....$100 for both. Dunedemon.

erbilabuc, wasn't trying to bust your balls, I realy was impressed with your initial answer. Frankly I find it interresting that people who share a common interrest (banshees) can have such drastically different other interrests. Guess thats what makes the world go around. If we all liked the same shit this would be a boring place. Scientific and green revolutions - younger members take note when you've got some history homework. Dunedemon.

Snap!, check out erbilabuc "I'll take ancient alcohol history for a thousand Alex" I'm impressed. I say give him the prize just for that kick ass answer. Dunedemon.

Come on guys, I'm not trying to decieve anyone! If you remove the rear shock from the bike you will find two "stepped washers" one on each side of the upper and lower mounts (they are captured by the rubber gromets) theese washers seat next to the bearings (spherical rod end type) in the upper and lower shock mounts. Theese spherical bearings contain a "wiper seal" as an integral part, if the seal becomes dirty or damaged it can let crap into the bearing thus producing noise. (I speak from experience it happened on my '97). The lower shock to swingarm linkage can also produce noise like "Cotton eyed Joe" stated, not sure if said linkage has bearings or bushings. Try grabbing the resivior on the rear shock and moving it side to side in the bike, this is possible because of the bearings. Dunedemon.

Indubitably, I'll atke some tonight, and contact you tomorrow. Dunedemon. I'll TAKE some tonight - dam I need to learn how to spell.

blk02banshee, Holyman, I'l take some pictures of the stuff tonight. Dunedemon

I have a set of skat trak 22 x 11 x 10 8 paddle haulers one year old (about 10 trips to glamis on them) mounted on a set of douglas red label 10 x 10 wheels. $100.00 plus shipping. Dunedemon.

BansheeRider576, your spring height measurement above, is that with you sitting on the bike? If not I would reccomend pre-loading the spring no more than another 10mm, based on your weight, and if you have the stock swing arm on the bike, the factory spring provides enough rate for you ( 5.4 kg/mm 308 lb/in is the stock banshee rate) Also make sure that the rebound adjustment (bottom of the shock) is not maxxed out to full rebound, if this is the case, the shock is holding the bike down against the spring. Start with both compression and rebound adjusters at full soft and work in 4 click increments from there, after setting the height of the rear spring. Dunedemon.

blk02banshee, no but I can get one, or you can go to http://www.prm-atv.com and look at the "baja" front bumper. Dunedemon.

BUMP - THE STUFF IS IN GREAT SHAPE!

On a side note, if you wish to learn more about spring rates, motion ratios, and transition points check out http://www.eibach.com click the "motorsports" button, then click the "ERS wizzard" button, and the "suspension worksheet" button, or drop me an e-mail at [email protected], I'm happy to help. For what it's worth we also have a full line of direct replacement rear banshee springs is various rates for those of you who have made swingarm length changes, and I'd be happy to make reccomendations. Dunedemon.

banshee04le, based on what you have described, you need more spring rate. Cranking up the spring pre-load only cancels out the tender spring and eliminates it from the system, thus returning your front shocks to a linear spring rate which is clearly too light (not enough rate) this defeats the purpose of even having a dual rate / progressive rate spring stack. To realize the full potantial of a dual / triple etc.. spring set-up the springs rates must work and compliment each other,and the valving be changed accordingly. They act as one spring until the "lighter" rate spring is either completly closed (some people call it "coil-bind") or is cancelled out by the pre-load spacers this change is called the "transition point" at which time the rate is increased because the shock is now working in the heavier springs rate. Hope this made sense, I work at EIBACH SPRINGS in research and development so I play with springs for a living. I would suggest that you call Todd at TCS (he's the owner and a very helpful guy when it comes to this stuff)he can revale your shocks to suit you, he uses our springs only, and we have the largest selection of rates on the market for the 1.88" ID shocks, WORKS only uses a limited number of ratesd on their shocks, which you recently discovered, I'm not trying to bad-mouth them it's just the facts. DO NOT TAMPER WITH THE SCHRADER VALVE that is where the shock is charged with nitrogen. TCS's phone # is (909) 245-7484. Dunedemon

BansheeBruce, inspect your upper and lower shock mount bearings and seals, if they become dirty or have some significant wear,your squeak may be comming from there, they may need to be cleaned / lubricated, or even replaced. "Pivotworks" sells a complete replacement kit. Dunedemon.

I have a "PRM" front bumper (baja style with front skid plate) along with the full bottom skid plate also by PRM with all necessary hardware for sale $100.00 plus shipping in excellent shape. Fits all banshees. Dunedemon./

Holyman, I'd be happy to help with some flow bench testing, just let me know what I can do. Dunedemon.

My throttle is not stiff at all, lighter thumb pressure required vs. the stock stuff. Dunedemon.

Call or visit http://www.razorbackdesigns.com, ask for "Kara" (503) 702-3189, tell her what you want, she makes the best seat covers I've ever seen. Dunedemon.

Just turned 27 two days after X -mas. Dunedemon.

A bit off of the original question but here goes. I have the Graydon Proline 2 into 1 setup (a good friend of mine makes them for graydon, so I got it through him) with a kehin 35mm air stryker. The inside of the manifold has been "spiral flutted" for increased fuel atomization, and we added a special set of reed spacers port matched to the manifold to better direct the increased flow to the reeds (this was all done on a flow bench to track CFM) My engine is a 370 long rod (IMS hot rods, wiseco superlites, proto-type needle bearings on the trued and welded crank), hinson basket, pressure plate, 8 pack clutch set up, dune port for the cylinders, head cut 90 thousandths and re-chambered, pwr radiator, warp drive temp guage (bike runs at 180-190 deg F) with Matt Sheer pipes / silencers specifically made for the engines spec's, 14" long by 4" OD K&N air filter (same one Dennis Packard uses) I run VP 110 fuel mixed at 40:1 with ipone fully synthetic oil. The bike runs extremly strong from top to bottom, made 64 HP, and 52 LB / FT of torque on the dyno 2 weeks ago, jetting is a snap, tuning is super easy. The engine was built by Kevin Kohrell at Custom Creations ATV in Yucaipa, CA. So after my long winded story, the answer is go with the 2 into 1 system of your choice, jet it correctly and you will never think about going back to twins unless you build a full drag bike. Dunedemon.