spoin39

There has been alot of talk about the T6 not good for ported engines so I called James (tech at toomey) to answer some questions. First the T6 is fine for a ported engine, as long as the port-timing has not been changed. The T5 is better if it has been changed but both will work good on ALL ported, stroked engines but, the more the modifications the more the T5's will outperform the T6's. I have a MX port and head shave by Eric Gorr and V-force reeds, when I had the T5's it made 49.4 hp. when I went to the T6's it made 52.1, I did not change the jetting at all to see what the pipes actually did. Just some info for people unsure of the new Toomey T6.

Your pilot jets are too big if you don't need to use the choke when cold, that is why the bottom power is lacking. Go down a size and I bet it runs better, still might have to adjust the airscrews a little.

Actually going from32:1 to 40:1 is leaning it out. If there is only a 10-20 degree difference it will be fine, just not perfect. I would stay at 32:1 to be on the safe side.

Yes it gets hot, that is why resevoirs are better since they seperate the oil and nitrogen. If you want low and still bottom resistant you want a 0 preload shock. They are pricey!

They do have it cause I had some not too long ago. Mrmatt, go to ACTION motorsports and ask Randy to find it for ya, If I can find my old bottle I will give him the code off of it. It looks just like the little touch up bottles at auto parts stores. it was a perfect match!

Hey Mrmatt, I modify my stock silencers to fit my pipes just in case, It's real easy to do! Fixitrod, boonman and I are trying to get there but still need to work out the details. If there is a way you can make it do it! Maybe we can work something out since I live 25-30mi from you.

I would start at 300-320 main. I don't run open filters so this is a guess but should get you close, the stock pilot might be OK, if you adjust the airscrew and it gets better response the more you go in you might want to try 1 size up.

For a all around pipe that is great for trails I would say the PAUL TURNER MIDRANGE. I like the toomey's also but the PT's has more bottom and mid, just not as much on top. The CPI in frames are good also.

The manual says 15 mm but I go by sight and I'm sure everyone else does also. I like about 1/2" on the top and that is with me on it. If you don't have someone to sit on it while you check it I put as much pressure on the grabbar with one hand as I can and adjust to that. Just loosen up the 2 bolts on the back, one is a 15 and a 17mm if I remember right (I have the honda style adjustment on mine) once those are loose loosen up the 12mm nut on the adjusters, make sure the 10mm bolts don't move yet, then turn the 10mm's in about 1/2 turn each and recheck. Make sure you turn each one the same amount or you will throw off the chain alignment. When you are happy with the chain slack hold the 10mm bolt and tighten the 12mm nuts down, then retighten the big bolts on the sides. There are little marks on the chain adjusters you can check to make sure they are even. Hope this helps ya out!

It depends on how and where you ride, give us an idea on what you like to do and ride on with your quad.

Man I would like to but it's supposed to snow and be cold. I'm more of a fair weather rider. If I see it's going to get warmer I'll be there, I'm from Lafayette so only 20min.

I agree with benbb, it sounds like needle position, do like he said and if don't work go the other way. It will at least eliminate that possibilty of a jetting condition.

Redline synthetic 40:1

Haven't had any problems with mine, I race it , ride about 3 times a month w/friends, modify it, and run the shit out of it. I just check it all out every other ride, keep it clean,oiled,greased. Hell, I haven't even changed the plugs since I bought it in OCT 2001!

efward, I hope the hell you are joking! If not, stay off our site! Most people in atv'ing are good people that like to get together with friends and family and have a good time. That is what it's all about! The few that don't know what they are doing and don't ride responsibly that doesn't wear helmets don't represent the other 99% of us! Land closers are our worst enemy but most offroaders are land lovers and want to save forests and dune areas but still want to enjoy them. How fun is it to walk through 50mi of forest or 100mi of dunes? I would rather ride and take in the scenery while having fun with friends. Sorry all, that was my soapbox again!

So far in 16 yrs of owning quads i have had the following all bought new: 88 250R, 89 250R, 90 LT500, 93 shee, 95 shee, 98 shee, 99 shee, 2001 shee, and now a 02 shee. I guess I found one I like!

I have only delt with MAGIC RACING, never had a problem and usually get my stuff in 3 days. Also ask for some stickers and they hook you up!

Very easy. Take the carbs off one at a time so you don't get them messed up. The main jet is on the bottom (float bowl), the pilot jet is under the splash guard (wich is under the main jet), and the needle is in the slide wich is in the carb tops. You can go to the jetting faq on this site or we can walk you thru it. Just take your time and pay attention to how it goes together.

I agree, I've had the LONESTAR AXCALIBER for several years and did manage to bend it on a nasty crash down a hill. I sent it in and it was back in 7 days like new, no questions asked!

I have had the same problem, Take your clutch cover off and see if the shift change lever came off of the shift star. It probably did and if so you can either just pop it back on and hope it was a fluke or replace the whole rod and linkage. I replaced mine and haven't had a problem since. The shaft and lever comes together and is only like $30.

Cfurey, I still have all of my originals, if you want them pm me and give me your address. I kept them in case I would ever need them but it's been 6 yrs so I don't think I need them anymore!

Lafayette, IN. About 45miles north of Indianapolis.

With no lid I would suggest starting at a 320 main, needle on the 4th groove from blunt end, and maybe go up one size on the pilot (stock is 25 so a 27.5). This should get you close. Usually you start big on the main and go down until it doesn't miss at full throttle, Raise the needle (lower the clip) until you can roll on the gas from 1/2 throttle and it doesn't skip or bog, go up on the pilot until you can accelerate smoothly from idle, 1-4 turns out on the airscrew is normal but if you need to turn out more go up on the pilot. I can't tell you what the jetting will be at sahara but this should help you figure that out yourself. Don't be afraid to experiment with it to get it right, that's the only way to do it, we can only give you an idea.... you have to perfect it!

Do like blueduece said but check your toe-in, measure the front of the tires from center to center and back of the tires the same way. If you ride woods/trails you want a little toe-in (1/2"). If you ride in open/fast areas you want a little toe-out. Toe in is when the front measurement is LESS than the rear of the tire and vise-versa. Toe in helps you steer quickly and handle sharp turns and toe out helps stability at high speeds.

Most of the banshee's race in the morning classes 2-stroke a,b,c, open, and vets. There are a few that race in the pro and vet sr. but not a lot, I have raced 4 gncc's a year for the last 6 yrs. and always rode a banshee. They aren't the best in the tight woods but that is what I like to ride and it is all in fun to me.