spoin39

What size of pilot? 25, 27.5, 30. Maybe need to try different size.

Yeah, they have a small silencer but sound great! I have rode both and really can't tell you wich is better. If you get the LRD don't get the adjustable kind. I had them on a 250R and they leaked like a 2 dollar whore!

I would say you're close, maybe a size or 2 up on the mains. The only time you have to cut the lid is with the 2-stage foam filters. Usually you only have to cut the tabs off the inside of the lid but I like to cut the whole thing out to get as much airflow as I can without removing the lid. I ride in a variety of conditions so I like to keep my lid on.

It sounds like you guy's need to do this yourself. Doing a topend rebuild on a 2-stroke is easy! Get a Clymers manual or have someone that has done it before help you, It's the best way to learn and will help you know your quad better! As for the tors kit just follow directions carefully and it's fairly easy also. As for prices pistons/gaskets $200, tors kit $40, experience and pride for doing it yourself......PRICELESS!!! If you need detailed help on all this just ask these people on the site or PM me and I'll be glad to help.

I would have the cylinder heads shaved (.0030) add a coolhead w/20cc domes, and maybe replace pistons w/wiseco, vitos, or pro-x. I don't know which comp. chart is accurate but this would get you at your goal of about 150psi.

If you ride in real dusty, muddy places buy about 12 snap-in vents for the airbox lid, I have 8 in the lid and 4 on the sides of mine and work close to a open lid.

Also check to make sure your vent hoses are all clean, have you had the impeller out lately? Maybe forgot the pin in it?

Usually you have to cut the inside out when using an adapter plate. I use the 2-stage foam filters and it won't clear if you don't cut it out. I used a cutting wheel on a dremel tool, It doesn't weaken the lid so go for it! It takes some time to do it clean though.

Why are you taking the engine out just to do a topend? All you have to do is take the pipes off and tank, bolts on head, intake off, and lightly tap w/rubber mallet and you're at the pistons.

Try motion pro.

It's the TORS! I agree with boon, junk all the wiring connected to the TORS system. It's sensing your parking brake is on. I buy a new banshee every year and that is the first thing I do!!

Then I would check with toomey if you want to get it right the first time. I don't know what jetting requirements are for the T3's, unless you don't mind the trial and error method. You could start with what ben and I said but it would only be a guess.

Check the fuel pump. I had a old liquifire john deere and it would do the same thing. It has a diaphragm in the fuel pump and it probably has a hole in it.

It sounds like your jetting was off, all pipes like different jetting. It doesn't mean one is better than the other. If you had your quad jetted for T-5's and you put on the Trinnity without rejetting they wouldn't run very good either!

Awesome!! I just switched from T-5's and was a little worried from what everyone was saying about the T-6 not good for performance engines. I have .0040 Pro-X pistons, decked heads, ported/polished, V-force reeds, Prodesign 19cc coolhead, UNI 2-stage filter with about 15 airbox vents. It runs even better than it did w/T-5's! Plus I like the mounting brackets better, T-5's always broke the rubber silencer mounts on motocross tracks,T-6's are very solid.

When I put my V-forces on I went up one size on the main and went 1/2 notch richer on the needle (used the needle washers under the clip). Mine ran great w/this combo.

I live in Indiana too so I can probably help, I have T-6's but just switched from T-5's. Put in a 280 main, put your needle on the 3rd notch (count up from pointed end) leave the stock pilot in (25) and turn your air screw 2-1/2 turns out from all the way in. Also be sure to set your floats while you're in there. Also stock needles will ccome out of the needle hole in carb when throttle is wide open, aftermarket needles don't. Hope this helps!

It sounds like you guy's are warming them up like normal, some people just jump on a cold ride and pin it!

It's OK to let them idle for a minute or 2, but when a 2-stroke idles the fuel mixture is very rich and can foul a plug if idles for too long.

I always run Pro-X lites

I ran my stainless line through the old hole the stock ones mounted to ( little square holes just below rad). put a rubber grommet in there first so it doesn't rub a hole in them and it keeps them from getting in your stem!

Took mine down to the frame to have powder-coated last year and found the rear shock tower bent up almost 3/4". I welded in a 1/8" brace on both sides of where the shock mounts (after we staightened it) also put braces on top of where the A-arms mount, on each side of the steering stem mount on top (by the tank) and a brace in the subrame where it connects to the frame. I've had a couple of good crashes on motox tracks from the air and did not bend a thing.

Sorry I said that backwards, raising the needle (lower the clip) richens/ lowering the needle (raising clip) leans it out. Sorry bout that!

Also, you should have raised the needle a notch, not lower it. Raising the needle (lowering the clip) leans it out, you should also go up 1 or 2 sizes on the main.

All you have to do to change the tension (setting) is to flip the reed holder over. It says "low" on one side and "high" on the other, it stands for the RPM range you want the power the most. If you set it on the "low" position your reeds will wear out quicker. Mine are on that setting all the time and replace them twice a year but I ride alot and race a little, you don't notice alot of difference unless you have more mods.