spoin39

The guy is a friggin genius! I'll have to try that next time!

I would say it's jetting like they said, or a clog in a jet on one side. While we are on the subject what is the best way to keep new pipes from blueing? Paint the inside with high temp paint or??Thanks for the response!

BenBB has a good point, I have had a RPM carrier for so long I forgot the stock one isn't greaseable.

I know that my RPM Honda style carrier will fit in a 88-89 250R because a friend of mine blew his bearings out in a moto-X race and we switched mine into his so he could run the next moto. He finished 2nd and I finished 4th so I figured he had a better shot of winning the overall than me.

I've had a Prodesign head for about 5yrs and only replaced the o-rings once just because they had been in there for a while, I never blew one out or had any problems. Always use some heat-proof grease on the o-rings.

First of all if you want it to be loud, quit riding atv's. You give the rest of us a bad rep, that's why there are so many land/riding areas being closed down!! Most pipes are plenty loud enough. OK, enough preaching, I would stay away of the adjustables because they are notorious for leaking at the seems. They do have a non-adjustable that is pretty good. Toomey, Paul Turner, Pro-circuit, FMF, are all good pipes, what you choose is up to you and your riding style.

I have been to Wayne National Forest a few times (in southernOhio) and the trails are great. The trail maps tell you how far they are and we figured 4 of us on banshee's got an average of 7mpg, while a couple of 4-strokes got 13-15mpg. I'll take the bad gas mileage over a thumper anyday!!!

I turn my fuel on, hit the throttle once, pull the choke out all the way, and give it a kick. It always starts within 3 kicks no matter how cold. Maybe I just got lucky and got a good one.

Put your wheel hub nut on backwards so the flat end is facing out, put a piece of wood over that and hit it with a big fu@&$*? hammer!

Usually when you notice too much play. Move the f.wheels back/forth, A-arms in/out, and so on, if there is noticeable freeplay, replace them. I use the needle bearings in my A-arms and like them better than the bushings.

I thought they only had 18-22, huh, a guy could get smart by reading these posts..........I better stay away, don't want to lose my rep!

You will have to hone the cylinder out no matter what, That gives the rings a nice smooth surface to seat against. Definately check to see what the bore size is before you order a kit, I guess I took it for granted you knew. As for the welding crank, I think it's a good idea especially if you have more mods than just pipes.

I would take the carbs off of both and do a thorough clean, check to make sure all jets are the same in each and are clean, put back on bike make sure they are in sync and retest. You'll probably find something wrong while doing this.

Just go to motion-pro. They make the original tors kits.

When you take the heads off look at them very carefully and see if there are any scatches, feel with your hand also. If they look good just order a top-end rebuild kit, should come w/all gaskets needed, pistons, rings, circlips, and pin bearing. If they are scratched or scored you need to bore it one size.

Put some grease on the bottom of your carb tops before you screw them on, seals out crap from getting in there.

Either your oil isn't very good or you need a new top-end, the only other thing, maybe the silencer packing is saturated with oil and needs replaced.

If those heavy duty springs are too much you can increase the tension by putting a washer between the bolt and stock spring, adds a little more but doesn't hurt the hand as much.

TCS(total control suspension) did my works shocks for me and they are great!

I like to go practice/race on a moto track that is technical, and I love climbing hills! The bigger and harder to climb the better!

I think stock they are about 34-36hp, add pipes and that will go to around 42-45hp. Most manufacturers say pipes are about 20% increase. I have never seen any torque figures but I would guess about 20-25 at best stock and 27-32 piped. Banshees suck for bottom end so this is a guess. Anybody else have a guess or info on this?

I have always used REDLINE LIGHT WIEGHT SHOCK PROOF GEAR OIL. I used to race alot back in the late 80's -early 90's and had a rep ask if I would run it for the year, he gave me a case and some stickers. 14yrs later I still use it even though I have to buy it now! You can get it at most moto shops.

The cushions (O-rings on clutch) are supposed to keep the clutch from chattering but you don't need them. I have never used them and haven't heard anything.

The pilot is under the main jet splash guard.

If you have you're old silencers you can cut about an 1-1/2" off the head pipe end and use those. I always used mine at areas that require a spark arrester and they work good. Alot cheaper too!