spoin39

Yeah, it's easy like they say. READ THE DIRECTIONS carefully! When you drill the hole for the idle make sure the carb is facing the right way, you can drill the wrong side, they look alike. You want to drill the side where the throttle slide is angled.

I have a Muscle steering stabilizer on mine that is 7 settings, and rebuildable from MAGIC RACING. I had to put spacers behind my radiator for it to clear but works great! You forget it's there until you ride one w/out. (stabilizer came w/all bolts and spacers)

I've had the V-forces for a couple of years now, the only thing about them I don't like is the price of replacing the reeds! I always set my reeds on the low setting to get better low end but it wears them out faster. They finally put in a disclaimer that putting them on the low marks do reduce reed life.

Had a 74 kaw H-2 400, it would stumble and stutter around town but open her up and you could run with any bike up to a 750! Lot of fouled plugs and blown out baffles out the exhaust though.

I use REDLINE 2-stroke racing oil, Have never had a problem and when I replace pistons (every season to be safe) they look almost new! 40:1

I use REDLINE LIGHTWEIGHT SHOCKPROOF GEAR OIL in mine. Clutch seems to work much better.

Use REDLINE LIGHTWEIGHT SHOCK PROOF GEAR OIL in the white/blue bottle. I swear you can tell the difference in how the clutch feels! A little expensive though.

I'm not an expert but have ridden and worked on quads for about 16yrs. so I hope no offense is taken at this, If you don't know all about how to port a 2-stroke for the powerband you want, know about port-timing, transfer ports, how intake ports flow at different RPM's let someone that has the experience and the proper tools do it for you. Most people think that if you just smooth everything out in the cylinder it is ported, not so. You can change the power band drastically by porting if you know how, i.e more bottom or more top end. Eric Gorr is a well known 2-stroke guru and when he did mine he asked me all kinds of questions about my mods, how I ride, and what I want out of it and delivered exactly what I was looking for. Get it done by a reputable builder!

Put a little grease on the threaded part of the carb, make sure it is clean and not stripped, try again. Sometimes with the tors still on it makes lining the cap up hard, take the tank off if the metal tube for the cable is hitting the tank to make it easier.

Had T-5's but got a deal on T-6's but haven't rode yet. Plan on riding this weekend, will tell you what I think. The T-5's are a great pipe, don't let some people try to tell you they are only a top-end pipe, they have great bottom and midrange power. The only pipe that I have found to have more bottom-mid is the paul turners, but after the holeshot toomey's fly by. I have tried cpi,fmf (fatty and sst) pro circuit, and DG all are good (I can't lie to you, the DG's suck). Talk back after the weekend!

The +2/+1 was for the A-arms,+2 wide/+1 forward. Sorry bout that!

I have works triple rate w/remote resivoirs on the front of mine and a works ultra cross on the back. I race mx, gncc, and some hillclimbs and love them. Be carefull who you buy them from though, if they don't ask you questions about how you ride and how much you weigh look elsewhere. I had to have mine revalved at TCS and they are 200% better! Also if you are going to run mx go with a -1 swingarm, It handles much better for mx. If you have the cash +2w/+1f are the hot setup.Hope this helps.

The best thing to do to solve most of the overheating problems is to switch to a prodesign impeller, it is fairly easy to do (in the right side case where the coolant hose goes to the case). Then always run engine ice. I've owned banshees for 10yrs and this seems to keep them cool. Don't reroute your overflow tube it's supposed to spit out on the pipes so when it's overheating you will see the smoke!