banshee tuner

I don't think he's ready for that yet. He might try a 1/2 inch bit and really do some damage.

If you set your bike up right you will have no trouble with any pipes in the woods. I run t5's and they do great in the woods and when you hit the fields they rip. they have a pretty broad power range.

Try posting in the jetting and exaust forum but it sounds like you are running lean. Not getting enough fuel for the amount of air you are getting.

How well do these work for trail riding and small jumps. They look a lot stronger than the front kits I've seen before.

Is there a way to lower the shee without spending a grand. I want to do this for drag racing but still be able to trail ride. I don't really do any jumps other than what I encounter on a trail ride. One of the guys I ride with slammed his raptor to the ground and I can beat him on dirt but when we line up on pavement he leaves me out the hole cause his front end stays down. Any help would be appreciated.

The maxxis 4-snow tires work good to. They look similar to the pro wedge.

Where do you ride in jacksonville. I heard of half moon but have not been.

If your talking about the gaurd with the holes in it I cut mine off and trashed it. It's purpose is supposed to keep a stick from wedging in there but I really don't see a need for it plus it looks like crap.

Yama bond #4 is what was on there from the factory. Never use silicon unless you want trouble.

The only rings I can think of are steel thin black rings and no you don't need them they can sometimes cause a clutch to slip.

You don't want any gap at all. It should be hard to crank, but you can flip the reeds over and usually close the gap to keep riding while you are waiting on the new ones to ship to you.

You have not cut em yet!

Carb cleaner will take the plastic off with ease and is safe on chrome.

I have t5's and it was hard to ride in the woods at first but when I went to 15 41 gearing it helped cause I did not have to shift gears as much. No they are not the best woods pipe but they do good and when you want top end you have plenty.

I have them on the front, worth every penny.

A 2 inch will fit it is just a hair loose, 16 inch or larger cresent, pipe wrench, or big channel locks.

Plowed fields you bog down no matter how fast you get but sand you bog taking off and once you hit second your on top the rest of the way.

Motion pro from magic racing, somewhere around $65.

That sounds like what some people do just to get an engine running to sell but I would not suggest it if you wan't it to last.

I'm not saying anyone is wrong but 140 is darn good compression and I would pull the side cover and inspect your clutch plates first. Or you can drain the tranny oil and inspect for clutch fibers, and since you have the oil out try some new 10-30 oil cause if you have synthetic that could make the clutch slip. And the most overlooked problem is clutch freeplay so check the adjustment at the lever. I just would hate to rebuild the topend when it's probably clutch related.

If it cranks but won't rev right it could be that switch on the clutch for the tors.

I have my front rims reversed and cut front fenders and I get more mud slung on me from the rear tires and I still have fenders over them.

Anyone??

Anyone know any good riding places in eastern north carolina.

Air impact works every time.