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mholub

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About mholub

  • Birthday 10/21/1975

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  1. Ya, I see your point. I sent the cylinders with the guy that has the equipment before I had a chance to get pictures so that's why I have not posted any. I might be able to get him take a couple and send them to me. Either way, it sounds like the epoxy method has a proven track record so I will stick with that. Thanks for helping me realize why I asked for suggestions in the first place.
  2. So upon further investigation, I can remove the dent by machining about 9 thousanths of an inch off of the top of the cylinder. I feel like that is a better/easier fix than trying to fill it with epoxy or welding on it since I have access to the equipment and a machinist willing to do it for me. There is an o-ring that sits in a groove on top of the cylinder that the domes seat into. That groove would be shallower by that amount. Does anyone see a problem with that sealing properly if I do that?
  3. It has the oring seals between the domes and cylinder. There is a groove that the o rings sit in on top of the cylinder.
  4. Whay type of devcon epoxy would be best to use?
  5. I will post the results when I get done. Thanks to all for the advice.
  6. Well i was going to bolt it back on and with the plugs out turn the engine to make sure the the piston didnt hit.
  7. I assume you mean the clearance between the top of piston and head?? I dont know what it is or or how to accurately check it. Sorry i am pretty novice at some of this stuff.
  8. A few thousandths of an inch probably. Are the tolerances that tight that i would run the risk of the piston not having enough clearance?
  9. I would probably grind as opposed to milling. It wouldnt be nearly as agressive as milling.
  10. What i am asking is if there is any tolerance whatsoever so i could very lightly hit the whole surface. I would do both jugs simultaneously so they were the same.
  11. It is small maybe a 1/8" in diameter. Less than 1/32" deep. I have acces to a machine shop so i could grind or mill the epoxy off to make sure it is perfectly flat. If I touched up the whole surface but barely removed any material would it hurt anything? Obviously I am afraid of removing too much material.
  12. So heres my problem. I have a project banshee and the parts have come from all over. After I got the whole thing put together, I filled the radiator for the first time so that i could start it up, and then noticed that the antifreeze was dripping from my coolhead. My first thought was that I had a bad seal, but after inspecting the gasket it apeared fine. I then went to my jug, to see if anything was wrong with it and it looks like the previous owner droped it on a bolt or somthing circular because where the gasket seals to the jug there is a dent. The engine is a 421 cheetah so i would like to try and save the jug. So my question is, can i mill the top of the jugs to take the dent out? If so how far? I am running 19cc domes with it and thought that maybe I could change them out to compensate for the milling? Please help!
  13. Thanks, that's what I was told. I had never seen a set where the muffler/silencer was riveted instead of welded and not chrome like the rest of the pipe.
  14. I did ask minkia through the ebay site and he/she said they didn't know since there is no stamp on them. They might be a really close up shot of some Lego parts for all I know.
  15. Actually I did find that thread. I'm not really intersted in buying them (certainly not after reading that). I saw a set just like this and was told they were CPI's but the silecer doesn't look right so I thought someone might know.
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