camatv

go to your local atv/ motorcycle store and get the harley book out. inside there are stainless steel core's in differnt sizes you can buy a stick and cut them down. plus they are stainless so shouldnt rust or go to poop again look in the harley exhaust section. i dont rember who makes them specifically.

you like to wheelie your TT bike? the geo changes on the rear. not that the OEM chassis works worth a crap if you remove the link but hey..

i should be there for a saturday at least. hell havent even started my turdwagon's since HQ last year.

same lightened flywheel on my 535 for the last 7 years.. i only like them because the bike revv's easier. it goes blip blip instead of bbbblllliiiipp bbblip but thats my .10 cents.

use the stock box or a custom alluminum one. the domes try FAST or NOSS for a setup. if some shop is building the motor for you they should already have a dome setup and carb setup to recomend.

spurd you keeping your spot through to snakehunt?

if its fine ride it. as far as upgrades? the best is a better filter setup. after that the sky is the limit.

i stocked up also. bad thing is after you buy a bunch of same items at the same time like that the feedback is only counted as one. its a goof up i feel on ebay but also i think its there to keep oneperson from artifically bumping their score.. hell dont know why you need to up your feedback? everyone knows the products you make are great quality and quick shipp and great price''s..

big 3 mod wow.. for 2500 bucks in a banshee motor you can have a decent running 350cc or possibly even a lil cub. if you did all the work yourself deff a cub and most likely with a "machinist" in the family a lil more could be done.. you could be knocking on the door of a 10mill cub for that range.. plus the used banshee woldnt cost 3500+.. dont get me wrong the rappy 700 is a bad ass atv for sure. in my opinion its a bad ass for drag set up compared to the weak as hell 450's the stock rappy motor with a lockup will handle a 50 shot of NOS.

i almost bought a cougar twin in a stock chassis. to me the rear end geo is something to be desired. a lil moving things around and the power is transmitted way better than stock geo can manage dont EVER run solid mounts!! they are absolutely HORRIBLE> these motors have NO balancer and after you buid some big ass engine the weights are so far off they shake like crazy. tanner understands my "idears" on the preload.. i do with the lower and side mounts. twist a frame and throw enough chains and you tend to figure a few things out..

have fun. do wheelies

sweet send me the t-6's

nope

get the metal techs they are nice. OR talk to wheelman about a custom set? i have some old ass dentons with warrior balljoints. they are +2 forward and 1 wider. its a trail setup. not LT but nicely built

my personal results with polished ports resulted in going to a very rough exhaust. carbon builds up in low heat area's if the exhaust port wont get hot enough to burn the shit off it will collect. i have in years past had to clean many many moped exhaust ports out becahuse they had become so restricted the motor wouldnt even run. just cause its on the net dosent mean its true.. i also cannot rember ever reading any reputable magazine article that suggested polished exhaust ports. to me they are there because it looks good and it seems to me most people buy according to looks instead of performance. the things that recently got me thinking were the changes in 4 stroke swirl patterns and using wet tech to change the way fuel. air enter'd the ports. some of these things i think can be transfer'd into 2 strokes. to me 2 strokes are very very hard to suggest use a flow bench on. the flows are constantly changing and there is no way a flow bench can duplicate what the dome is doing and what the pipe effect has on the cylinder. at least as far as i know.

this bike is sold please leave thread up for a few days

the filter material is much thinner. the rubber is shit and will rip. i have seen a bunch of these rip and fall off. when they do rip there is a bunch of air bubbles in the rubberitself. the clamps that came with the ones i was around were total junk. most snapped after a few on and off's warm your k+n up. when they get old they get hard. i'll stick with k+n and BMC thank you

stepped exhaust.. i dont know on that one... gp stuff was always trying all kinds of 0ff the wall stuff to get an edge. i miss reading about those trials if the charge coming from the pipe is hitting that "step" i'm sure its causing a huge velocity change and turbulence issue. i would think that unless the exhaust flange, first section of the pipe is not the same shape probably wouldnt work very well.. UNLESS they were doing it on purpose to try to remix the last intake fresh charge with the backpush from the exhaust..?? on a side not. the older aircooled rd's had no bridge in the intake. yamaha redesigned them with the intake bridge to help with piston life. i personally leave the bridge as wide as stock and do work around that. after trying a lot of different things its obvious to me there is a lot of stress in that area and it dosnet take long for thin stuff to cause cracks.. on the boost ports i have some of my own therories on how to shape them and where to point them. tried it on the lil 350cc that i welded up and to me the motor feels like it comes on stronger off the bottom and the pipe hit is much smoother. i feel that the intake charge isnt haveing to take so many motion or flow turns to get into the transfer area. those cyls with the added transfers on the intake i have seen them also. ran something similar to that in the old mx days. i dont know if they really added anything or just caused the cylinders to crack over time.. with what i know now from all the differnt stuff i have tried i would love to build another MX motor. but with the 4 strokes dominating that it would be difficult to do.. on the polished exhaust i personally do not do that. i found that the smother surface actually promoted carbon buildup and the roughter i made it the better it stayed clean.. of course thats oppisite what the internet say so is but i dont care. its what i figured out on my personal motors. to me you can learn a lot with time as much as performance. the longer life cycle of the engine the more hours and the more ride time you have in the same motor the more you can see certain patterns emerge.

hmmm

nothing wrong with the carbs. also with the pj's you can run a smaller main jet adn the fine tune with the jets. you need to0 check them tho unless you know the history they MAY be alcohol carbs.. the head.. the domes are specific for that head and no to many like to recut blanks for them. BUT being you need them for a stock cylinder 4 mill? you could have the domes recut for the stroke and probably run them no problem. other than that the head is a good design. i'd just toss it on ebay and hope for the best then buy a NOSS or mattoon or chariot etc. then have custom domes made for it.

just take the cover off.. takes longer to type all this than to do that.

the good suggestions in this thread are absolutely right. anyone who thinks a 100+hp banshee in trails is easy to ride has never rode a 70hp bike in the trails.. 70-80hp with good tq qualities is going to be a handfull for most any rider there is. also not sure if your trying to make an "all around bike" but it just dosent happen. think of it like a sliding scale one end is drag other end is dunes/ trails. the setups are totally different and the ruslts are just as different. if you want a "fun bike to drag race" its NOT going to be a "fun bike for tight trails" just not going to happen... turbo's seem to work just fine for those that can tune and are willing to make advances in part reliability when they break.. i'm planning on doing one in the next few years. for the same reason just something to play with and have fun on. i am going to try some really off the wall concepts with mine tho. if they done work so what.

really? ever thoguht of using a washer on the spark plugs to hold the domes in place?? pro-designs work just fine and no they dont leak if you put them in right. on really high hp motors they have a small tendency to blow out at the inside of the water jacket area.. i have had that happen about 3 times. the NOSS is a great head its strong and works really well. the use of stock studs is great. BUT on cubs or higherhp motors i'd highly suggest stronger studs, and stronger nuts, the chariot is a great design also they fit well and look really good most come with the HD nuts and thats a big plus. also there is the MATTOON head. it in my opinion is a great design. the domne has a complete support around its base. there is a lot of material in the waterjacket area thats prone to blow out. now if you have a prodesign head already. just run it. worst case call NOSS and have domes built for it if you need.

i cut all 6 gears, modify the shift shaft ( i use an assembled case for this as it has to be done just right or it can pull into the next gear..) i put a bearing on the end of the drum, and i also cut the drum where the bearing goes on in a certain way. i also cut down the shift star. and that also is done a certain way so that it actually rolls better, instead of just rounding off the edges recently i did one with a MULL bearing on the roller i really liked the way that worked out. i also cut the gears vertically instead of in a rotary like whats pictured. these gears are super hard and you will go through a few milling cutters doing them. i dont use the bearing on the shift shaft i didnt think it really did much. the biggest problems is the entire relationship between those parts i re-do. if you just do one thing like cut 2 gears it will still at times shift crappy. i designed mine to shift right everytime no matter what. full throttle upshifts are possible with a slight hit of the clutch to unload. i think even with a chift interrupt they could be completely clutchless.. but i have never tried that. the biggest plus to doing this is the lack of shift fork wear that happens with any duneable or override.. sometimes there are other issues with the transmission that causes all kinds of problems. burnt gears burnt shafts, worn shift shaft's bad drums bent forks bent guides stuff like that. the price MOST machine shops will charge for cutting the gears and what you would pay for the drum bearing and or the other parts individually usually is much more than what i charge to do the entire transmission. plus you get the added benefit of someone who rides these things and knows what to look for as far as other problems.

buy a manual