camatv

my old as hell 350cc from way back with t-5's, 35mm pwk's porting worked over stock reed cages custom domes and pump gas made 65hp. it held 62 from the pipe hit.... 75-80 should be doable.. the tq wont be as stong as an aftermarket cyl. BUT it should be enough to make you do~do your boxer shorts.

im to fat to launch 2nd gear. i break the gears all the time.. 1-5 is way better in my opinion. after you figure out how to make them work it for you.

buy the proper jj+a carrier.. dude they are cheap as all get out. your right that your spacing is all wrong. i had to make a spacer and an internal spacer to make a carrier work back in the days. amazing how much better your chain stays on when it actually lines up... then sell that shitty ass lsr drag axle and buy a jj+a. after you get that pile to fit its going to flop all over the place and if the splines are not already screwed up they will be. oh you can glue the hubs all on to kinda stop it tho.. jj+a axle + jj+a carrier = happy days drag racing. no floppy shit and no crap to deal with later.

whats wrong with a 535 cheetah?? dosent overheat. is a CP cylinder. is well known. has pv's so can make killer TQ AND make a shit ton of overrev... just need someone who understands PV's and dome design build you one. 535 PV cylinder, forged 10mill crank, straight cut spring loaded hinson basket, HD clutch, TZ bearing on pto side, stock modded trans OR override ( if your just going to drag) v-force reeds OR modded stocker cr250, 38mm lectrons shear BB pipes and you have one bad ass motor. dyna ignition, lightened stock flywheel or stock flywheel, that motor built right would make 75ish + ft lbs of tq and roll on at around 7500rpm would hit 100hp , should climb to around 120ish on top, rev to 11,000 rpm all damn day and stay together, and not overheat... the more proper question after that would be what frame would you use to control it?

get a better job. or a cheaper hobby.

can i "borrow" a few things too? ha ha

hope you heal up soon. i'm sure glad you didnt get hurt worse than what happened.

i install overflows. they need it. they need better floats, locktight can help but they can and will still fall out when you really dont want them to.. the basic problem you are fighting is the fact that the slides are not shutting all they way.

type F sucks ass. it burns up very quickly and i can always tell a trans that has had it in there. it dosent lubricate as well as you would think. type F breaks down VERY fast around 220-260ish degree's slip a clutch a few times and you way over that... after going to even cheapo 4t castrol 10-40 oil lasts a LOT longer and trans shifts much better. best is the klotz flex or the royal purple synchromesh 2 stroke oils. very nice. the plates are just soaked with a differnt type of oil. just run it and keep the freeplay in the clutch. it might come out later. if sitting with the cluthc pulled in and creeping is so much of a hassle change your clutch. leaving your cable pulled in all night long might also stretch the cable out prematurely. might need one of those. OR it can be the basket is groved, the pusher has some issue's the pull lever is worn, the boss and PP are groved and/or worn your metals are warped, etc..

are you on a walkie talkie?

ok. the dual pj setup is what LECTRON uses on their alky carb's they work ok BUT the screw needle WILL FALL OUT!!!!!!! clippard style packard PJ's are better in my opinion. they will not unscrew or fall out BUT sometimes you need 2-3 pj's to correct overly lean runs at length. ( NOT another commonly blamed issue) the dual pj style was orginally setup due to the lectrons needles at the time not being cut enough to flow enough at WFO runs. packard came up with his PE-1 needles to fix this and run a lesser PJ. most billet bowls DO NOT have an overflow tube and that is a BIG ass problem with billet bowls. the non lever style floats ( like pictured) totally SUCK ass when using a billet bowl due to the clearance and sticking issues. i use a lever'd float ( lectron sells them ) as well as install overflows into the billet bowls when i set the carbs up. chariot has excellent billet bowl design including clearances and fitment issues that are addressed as well as a overflow tube. BUT they dont make them anymore for the lectrons??????? come on man!! i personally use a special float that i modify then install overflows and sometimes drains on the bowls to get them to work and be reliable. and really just like ANY carberator setup if the slides dont SHUT it wont idle down. you must be able to completely shut the slides in any carberator setup then be able to adjust the idle adjust screw's on the sides of the carbs to set the idle. dont use the cable to EVER set idle. if it wont shut yoru cable is to short, your dual puller int he middle of the cable is to short ( limiting throw) or your cable is not adjusted correctley or the throttle is jammed up etc etc etc. before you even start a bike the cable should be able to be bottomed out completely, the slides should shut 100% and also OPEN 100%. if you cannot get this to happen dont even start the bike up. figure out why and fix it. seen these isuues all the time with new carb installs and its blamed on the carb or the person who set them up bla bla bla bla. larger carbs need billet throttles and much longer cables. 3omm is about max on a stock style cable. terry cable has a bad ass braided cable with about 3-6 adjustments to get the cable length right. get one. use it. set up your shit right and have fun.. ..

if you can source some small plugs for the release jets in the pv's the pv casings should all seal up and that way you can pressure it up and check the rest of the motor. they need the "controled leak" to let the pressure out of the valves. this "leak" wont cause any issues as its mostly a oli dump and a way to kinda tune the pv's also. using blockoffs if there is an excessive leak in the gasket area on the block or the tops of the valves ( common on trinity's crap design) its good to fix that. the pressure has to be there to open the valve or the top end performance will be lost.. you can look at that as if you were using flat plates on the intakes and then install the actual intakes you are going to use the potential to have a leak at the intake can arise. then its all kinda problems!

engine ice is overrated crap.. i can get distilled water, water wetter, and 50/50 mix of whatever is on sale and it works just as good. OR my fav mix is half bottle CAKE tequilla, 2 beers ( preferably that natty light some cheap ass gave me) , one smal shot of buttershits oh maybe i took that instead of adding it into the mix? and a few gallons of leftover cooler water with some mystery meat floating inside and is that cheese? or BBQ sauce too? anyways that shit right there made my bike run 100 degree's in the pits no prob,em on a 90 degree day right in the direct sunlight next to the shade tree in the mens bathroom area. hell yea!!

lol.

hah!! that pic with the bike totally off the ground is bad ass!!! hell yea! well ya know i guess i forget just how small you are crazykane. i'm 300lbs so not a lot of wheelie lift going on with my turd wagon... sand was hooking good. and what the hell!! after all these sxs and farmall's coming out dragging bikes behind them and not one of them has a skid to smooth sand?? wow.. the teryx is on its way and i will deff be bringing out a rig to smooth the sand out. might actually get to run into 4th and 5th gear again.. those were the days...

that the 24mill? maybe you should retink your tire choice... i might have a few vids of us racing. fighting the "wheelie" isnt fast.. its slowing you down so much.. i had a cold or some shit also. didnt even really feel like riding. had a few minor throttle issues when i got there and old as fuck alky i had lying around.. oh well still had fun.. the bike rocky was riding was pretty fast ( 650cc DM??)as well as a few others. i dont know if it was his or not he jocky's so many bike's who knows anymore.. maybe what 10 total drag bikes out?? that was saturday tho. i had heard a bunch of bikes broke thursday to friday.. i seen GT had a couple fast ass stock framed bikes. hell we were only running what 200-250 foot? i shifted to 3rd and rev'd a tad then hit the brakes. couple bikes i watched were in 5th by that time revve'd out. if we would have ran another 50 ft they would have blown up.. what a crock. had the wife's 350cc out there putting around on cpi's and PUMP gas. it was fun adn the wife got to trail ride some.. i dont know who's it was but there a was purple and silver bike with a stretched stock frame that looked chromed then powder'd on top that was a really nice looking bike. just wanted to say that.

wow this is great. airplanes aren't knife edged... but the front of boats are?? i'd like to see the 2pac paint job myself.

they have potential.. but so does a triple t-rex PV motor!! the big name h-2's were really really fast for the tech they were dealing with. the motor makes big HP BUT current tech has them at a cost effective barrier.. i'd personally rather spend 15,000 on a 4cyl cheetah 842.. think about that. the tech is here its doable... i personally feel that setup could destroy DM's

stocker like what? only about 3-4 oils actually mix with meth/alky. pingle, drilled cap, more bowl capacity and much different jetting and different float needle and seat it can be done with stock carbs.

thought that trans was new when they built that motor robert? what the hell dude?? i knew it felt like shit when i rode it. thats why i got off the damn thing. did crazykane have the cheetah with the huge rippers on it and you were sitting on the tank? made about 3 clean passes and wheeled like a mad man the rest of the time?? in my opinion i have had WAY more fun at the HQ ride events i know i'm going to get to race some new bikes and afterwards we are all going to hangout in the pits and get drunk and talk shit. snakehunt is cool for watching the idiots and people get arrested. the dragracing for the most part has been pretty sucky unless you like racing 200ft.. its still fun but HQ is a blast! if ANYONE is considering snakehunt to be a better turnout for sand drag racing. you got some screw's loose..

how did this "upgrade" ever even become popular?? guess everything you read on the net is true huh.. your better off converting a complete 450 chassis to use a banshee motor.

i vote DG pipes. paul turner silencers. BUT might be old ass bills pipes too. if they have no dents i'd say 100-150 bucks.

the first pics its probably not really even dooing much to help. and from the few pics you posted not really much to hurt either. ... at least i actually answere'd your question. those others hell thats looks like a stock port with some bolts floppin around in the cylinders.. again not really all that much going on there HA

just sold my entire lonestar bike.. to late.

wow. ok here is a little rule of motors. if you rebuild the engine clean the carbs or even get rebuild kits for them also. and "clean" dosent mean take the bowls off and spray around with carb cleaner. take them COMPLETELY apart even remove the dump tubes and clean that entire area out also. use carb clean, brake clean AND compressed air. spend some time doing a complete engine setup after it is installed and that will save a LOT of headaches. for example. leak down test, electrical system up to par ( caps good resistance. new plugs, wiring in good shape, flywheel good crank in good shape, stator pickup adjusted correctly etc) carbs clean and~~ synched~~ FRESH fuel , you wouldn't believe how many times i have had that problem alone. fresh oils and fluids. clean filter ( yes seen this also) and all the bolts tight ( oh that was a good one!) i'm not trying to be a jerk i'm just trying to help i have seen all the "guides" and videos on the net that show the real basics of building motors and replacing top ends but none of them really go into detail on the "details" that make a banshee run good. almost every question i have seen except a few here and there are all related to bad maintenance or easily diag'd parts. all the time i get a "rebuilt" motor / bike come through here and i literally spend 4-8 hours going around and fixing all the basics that are what makes them run well. this is after the owner has been p.o.'d that his new motor didnt fix the electrical issue they were having.