camatv

you have to at least to me. think about whats going on inside the motor. now NOONE can tell EXACTINGLY whats going on in there, or we wouldn't have those special fancy dancy camera's to make all kinds of neato flame front pictures. you can tho look at burn patterns and look at dome burn patterns also.... looking at dome patterns made realize a bunch of stuff and change the shape of the domes i was playing with. along with a few other things that TO ME AT LEAST made a lot of sense as far as i understand it the spark creates a burn wave and if that burn wave is not mixed well it dose not travel well. and you dont get a 100% burn. most motors burn rate or effeciency is horrible. lots of fuel is wasted to attempt to keep deto down and cool off the insides of the motor. the squish band creates a huge WOOSH inside the cylinder and shoves the fuel air charge into the middle of the bore. it also creates a ton of turbulence that keeps the fuel mix "mixxed" instead of separating into fuel/ air. the angle and width has the effect of creating that turbulence and creating the effect on the mix. MSV numbers i dont really like my self ( i KNOW i'm going to get a bunch of shit on this one) the programs i have played with i can have 35 differnt shapes and they ALL result in the same MSV numbers. the shapes i have come up with i cannot program into them because the shape cannot be made with straight lines. and one radius line i also fugred out creating more turbulence in differnt places i think can make a lesser fuel do more and burn more creating less of a chance for deto. these similar shapes can also create more of a burn for alcohol also. ( at least what i THINK is going on in the motors i do for me) to me dome design should be used to create the most turbulence without separating the fuel mix, the most cooling effect without creating to cold OR to HOT of a piston surface. and also a way to raise the efficiency of the rate of burn or flame front and attempt to burn 100% of the charge..

ok so after attempting to find a decent shipper for the teryx i have bought i think i have decided to go get the dang thing myself. SO i'm going to be traveling from central ks to sacramento california IF anyone on here needs a bike shipped, large item etc and the buyer/ seller can meet me along the way i can help out for a small cost depending on the size etc.. i think i will be heading out in 1-2 weeks from now so try to get it figured out by then. if you want please PM me and we can talk on the phone after that. thanks

dude your screen name is fuckin hilarious..

i'd love to see the vids.. t-6's take a VERY VERY specific port job to work well. a fun fireroad bike is going to be built around more top end savy pipes. i'd like to find a set of t-6 for the wife's new 350cc motor.

she has a pink polaris

i like that red and gold nice thinking out of the box there. the flakes are NOT going to sparkle unless there is a light source on them. to me the "rainbow effect" is pretty stupid looking as a main color. its ok ( in my opinion) as a backup or subtle color. my wife's old bike was the "chrome" polished alluminum gloss look with a gold flake clear. it was very subtle. the other color ( main ) was a yellow with the same gold flake clear, its been redone since then but to me using your imagination would result in some really interesting color combo's.. my cr500 has a marble red translucent powder on it. its very interesting. it was hard to come up with. but works

just drain the carb bowls thats what that lil screw on the bottom is for... stabul ( sta bil?) fuel treatment is great there is an ethanol style out now it works well i was also thinking of trying sea-foam in fuel to help stabilize it. sea-foam has a moisture absorber as well. our tanks are forever open to the air fuel in an open environment is going to evaporate. gas just does that. i can leave a gallon of fuel outside in a 5 gallon bucket and its totally gone my the next day. the fuel evaps and all thats left is all the shitty additives and bullcrap in the fuel. whats even worse is the carbs are open air also. if you leave the petcock on well as that fuel evaps new shittier fuel goes right back in to replace it. all the time i get the locals bikes and 4 strokes in here they say they wont start or wont run at all after 3 months of sitting ( with full tanks and petcocks on..) i have to clean the carbs and put in fresh fuel. now i have had to do that for as long as i can rember way back in the 90's when i first got into this business i was cleaning carbs on street bikes for the same reason and there was NO ethanol in the fuel at the time...

just get lectrons... if not here is a decent reason: pwk's are a more modern design carb. the slowjet low end jetting is a beter signal if i rember right. they also seem to have better throttle response and more low end power. also they actually have a real idle screw on them

moroso a+b works great and will hold up to alky. if its just a gas motor repair jb weld.. i havent used the devcon due to the 50-80 bucks for the alluminum epoxy/ i think it pours easier tho. a+b moroso stays pretty stiff

thanks for clearing that up. so need large cc 2 stroke EFI snomobile .

i am using the h2 with no windows at all. wossner has a set out now but i have not tried them yet. wiseco's for h-2 is in the 125 range. a powervalve gas motor with 64ft lbs and 114hp is one linear bitch. if there is a graph of it post it. i know on mine at 7500 it was making 100hp. and looked like flat line up to the 11,000 where it went into the 110+'s hell even a 421 pv cub would make very useable progressive hp. more than enough fun to dune with. IF built right

ok after much thoght i'm thinking of changing gears and attempting one of my dream builds. so to do that i need a late model EFI 3-4 cyl turbo snomobile motor or complete sled i'd like to find a wrecked machine or something like that. i will not be needing anything but the running engine and clutch assembly. so if the rest of it is trashed i dont care. needs to be a BIG cc thats know for its reliabilty and preferably a somewhat reliable "kit " installed. sand drag setup would be fine also. 250+hp to 400 is what i'd like to shoot for. i'm not looking to lowball anyone but i am going to take my time in researching exactilly what i'd like to run. in a prefect world i'd run one of the newer direct injection motor's.. i will be willing to pay a decent price for the right setup. soooo if anyone knows of or hears of a friend that has something like this please let me know.

9 paddle extreme 9" wheel. not so much sidewall they flex like crazy, not so thin ( like a 10) they dont flex at all. its one of my fav dune tire rears for riders

and they are a blast to ride!

does wsm have a h2 piston. 73mm bore

stock. build a bigger motor OR use a better ignition. stock carbs are surprisingly well suited for most motors.

fully modified trans is the only way to go. the bits by themselves alone dont do all that great. the 6th/1st nub dosent have to be cut but it can be wont do anything but loose about .4 grams of steel. i have seen some come in that were completely done and still shifted kinda notchy. sometimes its the gears having issues on the shafts, or the work was done by someone on crack and looked like crap. there are little nuances that can make or break a trans modification.

if your curious ask the builder how they phase a crank. if your just looking to send out a crank for work send it to crankworks. they are one of the best and you will deal with the actual company that rebuilds it. on porting most site sponsors are great at port work and do good work. redline is one of the ones i would recomend if you really want actual dyno proven gains that are the result of what i feel was a lot of research on a dyno.. and to think i rebuild cranks and do port work also. how many others would recomend someone besides themselves?? reason is i'm not 100% satisfied with my phasing skills and i'm not a dyno proven shop. not saying that just because a shop has a dyno that they are the best. just the results i have seen redline post in the dyno section speak for themselves. if i personally had dyno numbers to post i would do that also.... but i dont !

the stinkier the carb dip the better it works!! a synch tool is one of the best tools for owning a banshee.

most of the "pro" ported cylinders i have seen were just a casting flaw flap wheel and a wider exhaust. hell a few of them the exhaust was so wide they were eating pistons.. hmmm

in my experience billet cranks suck and break constantly. forged 10 mill. for reliability. find and buy that sand shark!!

i heard 2pac paints and ports all at the same time... uses the alluminum flakes from the porting for sick flake paint jobs!

pistons run about 125 each? whats the cost of dm pistons? a 10 cub would work well also. there have been several as cast 535-540's? on ebay for pretty reasonable costs. you said cost was not a problem? last week there was a LSR sand shark on ebay for 10k buy it now. i believe it had a 7 mill in it. unfortunatley i am going to retire the 535 for now. the internals are so worn out its literally shaking apart right now... i need to replace so much inside after the 7 years it has been running i'm just going to split it and wait till i have the $$$ to re do the motor. new pistons new crank and fresh replate, replace a bunch of transmission bearings and clutch bearing parts... on a side note i will have the 485 back together for HQ ( i HOPE). i will be redoing the porting in it to more of a drag port and see what that 4 mill can put out.. i'm going to challenge all the big motors to a 5 hot lap race and see how many make it!

but you believe that the black stuff on your slides is from them going up and down?? how much did you pay the "shop" for a tune`up? maybe they just cleaned the filter, slapped in some plugs, changed the fuel, and sent it on its way?? i dunno. any place that actually works on atv's should have noticed that there was a screw in the carb??? you can buy a shindy carb kit and use that to replace the worn parts in your carb. you should use the old jets if they are different than whats in the kit. get carb clean or find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner and use that or dip to attempt to clean the carbs completely. then go down to the hardware store and source the correct screws for your bowls and replace them. striped screws are pretty normal. then i'm guessing that you dont have a carb synch tool so go get one of those. then i'd highly suggest that you buy a torrs eliminater kit for the carbs and install that. please ready the instructions and take your time installing the idle screw's. then reinstall the parts with NEW gaskets, do a leak down test on the motor to make sure its sealing ok, then reinstall the carbs, synch the idle, then synch the pull, then check your jetting.....

lectron lectron lectron!!!! could have sold about 6 sets so far!